Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014
For the menswear collection of Lanvin, designers Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz dived into the world of surfers and skaters and translated that into youthful tailoring.
There was a common thread between fitted three-button jackets — which looked fresh — worn over “Great Gatsby” trousers, and jersey T-shirts paired with matching jogging pants. They’re both suits: one for business, one for leisure. Elbaz and Ossendrijver didn’t commit to a single silhouette.
What stood out across the multitude of options were the sumptuous, often feminine fabrics and a luscious palette: color-blocked shirts in crisp silk/viscose blends; and billowing macs in lustrous bonded wool and mohair.
Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014
The designers of Kenzo celebrated beach culture with loose cuts and hand-drawn prints including wave motifs and graffiti-style lettering. Models descended into the ring of the wooden venue from alcoves set high in the rafters, as Mike D of the Beastie Boys spun a soundtrack.
Anoraks and shirts with a contrasting stripe running across the chest or sleeve recalled the graphic simplicity of surf wear, while a boxy white sweatshirt with raw edges — the brand’s ubiquitous embroidered tiger head now replaced by a rolling wave — was slit at the sides for extra ease.
Roomy pants were either cropped above the ankle, or slit to pool over shoes.
Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014
For the Givenchy Spring/Summer 2014 collection, Riccardo Tisci took the audience upon a journey from America to Africa. From L.A. skaters, nerds obsessed with vintage 1970s computers, electronics’ loudspeakers to African ethnography, the show was about mixing colors, shapes, designs and prints. Colorful silhouettes exude a sporty elegance and a freedom of layering with contrasting elements.
Bright and light computerized motifs gave a dynamic and graphic take to prints. They were merged with an influence of Masaï and Zulu bold iconography, layered together with the energy of sportswear.
Oversized shirts, polos, parkas, pleated bermudas and leggings alternate with fitted tailoring. Classic cotton fabrics such as poplin, jersey, gabardine and piqué contrast with thick nylon, silk organza or georgette, printed leather, satin and nylon knitted mesh. Neo-tuxedo pants in plain or printed cotton poplin are layered with silk georgette demonstrating masterful construction.
Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014
Dries van Noten said it with flowers. He sent out a mix of old floral and botanical prints (from muddied and smudged in inky shades tot vivid blossoms) with scans of freshly cut flowers. Those prints appeared on silk robes, shirt-like blazers and fluid pants – which gave the collection an easy feel. To make it not too comfortable Van Noten added a cotton coat or crisp blazer here and there. There was some sportswear too, anoraks, tank tops and surfer shorts.
Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014
Louis Vuittons menswear-designer Kim Jones dedicated his collection to America, it’s hippies and nerds, its forest rangers and movie-stars. So the clothes moved from preppy blazers in exploded checks tot bush jackets with tie-dye effect an slick evening-wear. There were varsity-jackets, raincoats, surfshorts, blousons and of course black dinner jackets. Blue, brown, mustard and gray were the main colors.
Viktor & Rolf Monsieur Fashion Paris Menswear SS2014
School-uniforms and a bad school-boy where the theme behind the Monsieur-collection of Viktor & Rolf. The result was a streamlined and boyish collection with a new suit shape, pairing a cropped jacket with skinny trousers or shorts. The school-boy theme was also visible in the patches on black jeans, the jersey blazer with blue nylon stripes inspired by college scarves and the bomber-jacket.
3.1 Phillip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014
Phillip Lim presented a ss14 collection inspired by the idea of an accidental tourist, who dresses the way it comes. The result: a relaxed collection, where beach and city met with Neoprene oversized jackets and T-shirts, scuba shorts with kimono-inspired shirt jackets and metallic leather on sleeveless bicker-jackets. Colors were inspired by the see, like ocean-blue and coral-red.
Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014
That was an interesting menswear-collection Raf Simons sent out yesterday. It left the audience puzzled. Especially the rompers with low crotches – that sometimes looked like mini-skirts or dresses, but also the screaming oversized shirts. Simons told the press that the collection was a study of consumer society, which is becoming ‘more and more artificial, toxic in a way’, he said. He is looking for a new aestetic. ‘Freedom of expression versus the mechanical repetition of products’. The designer certainly challenged the audience with his rompers in a spongy, synthetic fabric, his oversized polo’s and T-shirts in pink or splashed with screaming advertising slogans. There were also sequined embroideries on knitted sweaters and color blocked shirts.
This collection was certainly food for thought.
Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014
It was obvious that workwear and military uniforms were the guiding themes for Valentino-designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. The show kicked off with a series of suits and outerwear, including shirt jackets and parkas, spliced together from various shades of denim.
The designers gave a twist to aviator-style khaki or beige jackets by adding blanket stripes and a single black leather breast pocket that was bonded so flat, it looked like duct tape.
Satiny pants came in a floral chine design that resembled an abstract camouflage print, while toile de Jouy motifs in muted shades evoked faded World War II-era Hawaiian prints.
Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014
‘Home sweet home’ whispered the clothes Walter van Beirendonck presented yesterday. He presented a ss14 collection with highly graphic well-tailored suits, shorts and jackets with color blocking and patterns looking like the interior of a room complete with wall paper. A few looks even displayed a table and flower-filled vase — one literally sprung from a jacket like a children’s pop-up book, in 3-D.
