Dan and Dean Caten took us back to the 1940s with a muscular Karmen Pedaru opening their menswear inspired show. Her hairy evening gown (which caused for a nipple slip to happen) was followed by line up of double breasted suits and high hats. Tight skirts, accentuated waists, fur details, chunky jewelry and rich colors really brought the forties back to life. Beautiful tailored coats and wide legged pants were some of the best pieces. Touches of metallic added that modern touch. Leave out the crazy hats and the rest of the excessively used accessories and you’ve got yourself a perfectly wearable jazz-inspired fall collection.
While most labels hire more and more asian models, Dean and Dan only sent all black models down their Milan runway. They wore casual ready to wear designs and were given a geek-y touch by high hats and nerdy glasses.
The show’s setting took us back to the twenties Jazz Age (there was even a small strip performance going on in the backdrop), but the clothes looked modern and youthful. Drop crotch Jeans with rolled up legs were matched with white shirts and styled off in many different ways. Combined with knitted sweaters, checked waistcoats, shiny tuxedo jackets and always finished with a bow tie or a tie in a fun color or print.
To make sure it all wouldn’t feel to gimmick-y the designers took (quite) a few steps back for the finale. Over thirty men dressed in neutral shaded underwear, a pretty sight to end this Milan Fashion Week with.
The DSquared-collection reminded of hard-core club gear, with Dean and Dan Caten using Village People leather caps, safety pin chains, tangles of black crucifixes, cobweb embroidery and neon and leopard-print accents to sex up their standard acts: sharp tailoring with cropped jackets and fitted pants, form-fitting white shirts, distressed denim and the like.
It’s the dream of any teenage girl; going to her prom in a designer dress. A prom dress designed by Dean and Dan from Dsquared might not be her first option, but the duo sure proved they know how to stage a prom show, including disco balls and a live band.
Their high school prom designs were pretty much everyday clothes. Like cropped trousers combined with leather jackets. Or croc leather pencil skirts worn with mohair sweaters. And those camel colored pants mixed with a denim jacket. Or that toggle coat with leopard collar worn with a check shirt and tight jeans.
Like always at Dsquared the styling was playful and casual. Bright shades of green, pink, purple and yellow alternated each other in goofy streetwise looks topped off by eye-catching accessories.
Models had big sixties hair, pointed glasses, chunky necklaces, funky (odd-fitting) hats and big brooches. Some of them even smoked on the runway, as if to emphasize the rebellion/youthful aspect of the show and the collection.
The show was closed by a couple of ballgowns, but even those weren’t all too serious. But never mind if their outfits matched with the dresscode or not; never a dull moment with these Dsquared high school girls
High School was the setting at the DSquared show and the model acted like little schoolboys, smoking on the runway and throwing paper planes at teacher. A retro classroom was set at the end of the runway. The models tried to behave like rebels, but the collection was far from that. Just DSquared-clothes: distressed, low-rise denim, fitted biker jackets and college-style shirts. But a great theme to play with. And there were actually some great outfits and garments, like the mohair & angora Fair Isle sweaters, a nice tweed car coat and some fitted suits.
Dean and Dan Caten, the twin-brothers of D-Squared got inspired by the coolest summer festivals for their spring- summer collection 2012. Colorful maxi-dresses, denim shorts, destroyed concert-T-shirts, a denim jacket, a hat and high heeled Wellington-boots is all you need. But of course, a real festival-groupie does have all those items in her closet already!
So it was just a nice theme to get the show on stage, it seemed an excuse tot present all kinds of casual summerwear from long dresses to tank-tops and shorts. Nothin new so far.
Today Dsquared twins Dean and Dan took us on a European summer vacation. They showed us Denmark, Greece (the island Mykonos), Italy (Florence) and England, by presenting pictures of those places as backdrop, that is.
In every European destination we came we were presented with another way of dressing, all of them styles we’ve seen before at Dsquared. There was the outdoor man with his lumberjack checks, the handsome (and very bronzed) beach boy in his tiny swimwear, the sharply dressed holiday man (in modern suit jackets in multiple shades) and the party boy (dressed in shiny tuxedos).
It was a nice trip and there surely was a lot to see. The clothes all looked very wearable and commercial and the mix of colors was fun. Any guy will be able to pick up something he likes in this collection, yet we were not really surprised by something new or refreshing.
Dean and Dan couldn’t be bothered with that concern; in the afternoon they were already celebrating the launch of their new perfume with a large group of international press.
The fall-collection Dean and Dan Caten sent oput this morning was the same theme their menscollection had: early American settlers mixed with tough biker chic. The basis: ultra tight jeans, leather bikerjackets or jackets with pouf peaked shoulders and nipped in the waist, white shirts, long coats and lace up boots set on iron-blades, ice-skating style. There were also bustier tops, floor-sweeping leather dusters, plaid hotpants, fringed blankets worn as capes or wraps and massive fur coats.
It was the styling that brought panache at the show and the collection, leaving that all behind what’s left is a jeans, a jacket and a shirt. Nothing new really.
It looked as if the twin-brothers Dean and Dan Caten had plucked all the fancy, chic citygirls from the street and put them on the stage tot show their spring-collection. The show was all about modern streetwear, the mix a young citygirl wears: something she found in her mothers closet, took from her boyfriend and bought herself at vintage store. She picked out oversized cardigans, tight bermudas, loose khaki’s, a suit and even mens-shoes plus old fashioned, printed scarves and golden necklaces.
It made a pretty collection of stuff you already know, it was nice to watch but the ideas were old. The late 60′s/early 70′s vibe (shiftdresses, long wide pants, shorts) gave it a more fashionable touch, since these periods popped up in other shows in Milan. There was hardly any color – beside the bags and some prints – the designers focused at khaki, black & white and blue.
This time twin-brothers Dean and Dan Caten took the movie American Gigolo as their inspiration for the spring summer 2011 collection. It’s an ambitious choice, since the suits Richard Gere wore in the move were designed by Giorgio Armani. But the collection wasn’t about the look of Gere, it was about the luxurious lifestyle these guys lead and their attitude.
So the model looked tanned, handsome, in great shape and were dressed in tight trousers and unbuttoned shirts. The once ultra ultra low DSquared-jeans appeared with high waist and a flare – so that means you will have to get rid of that belly, boys. Jeans were mixed with (shiny) shirts, blue was the main color besides bright colors like red and green.
The overall look was rather dressed with a casual feel like we’ve seen before this week in Milan.