Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Sweet, well dressed ladies walked the Costume National runway. They were heading to a lunch with friends, a cocktail party or a day at the office (of some kind of fashion company). The looked sophisticated and outspoken. Their outfits all had the right edge to them; it made them stand out, without becoming unwearable.

Strapless dresses were finished off with sheer organza, oversize blazers were used as dresses and in almost every look two shades (we saw white, blue, black and pink) made up for a strong look.

Cutouts, leather shorts and see through tops gave the collection just the right amount of sex appeal. Perhaps some of these girls were off to a first date as well?

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Leather bolero’s with ruffled sleeves probably are the most outspoken designs we’ve seen in Paris so far. Watanabe made them his subversive statement pieces in blue, red and black. He showed them with summer dresses and scary hat pieces made out of feathers.

Those traditionally embroidered summer dresses, which had a vintage feeling to them, were the key items of the collection. They came by, combined with a sheer bomber jacket, a black parka, a tulle skirt, half a trench coat and a trench cape. Items which gave the collection Watanabe’s personal touch.

Not a fan of those half trench coats? If you’d skip the bizarre styling, a collection full of pretty, original and wearable dresses would maintain. So whether you’re an edgy kinda girl or you just wanna play it safe, for summer 2012 you can go both ways with Watanabe.

 

Viktor & Rolf catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

The opening of the Viktor & Rolf show, today at the Jardin de Tuileries in Paris. The two French singers The Brigittes performed during the show in a gigantic tulle skirt.

 

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Haider Ackermann proved once again he’s a true master in choosing strong, bold colors, picking luxurious fabrics and mix this  into a graceful, powerful an dazzling collection. His ss2012-collection is about ‘rockabilly barons’ and – so it seemed – his own personal style in an exaggerated way, looking at the and the wide drop-crotch pants that tapered.

The cut was that of traditional menswear, but the fabrics were not. Thick silk and brocades came in beautiful colors, like deep purple, crystal blue and magenta. The lacing in gold and silver gave it an iridescent glow. Sheer silk, used for draped veils and skirts added drama while paisleys and madras added a touch of ethnic.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

You need a genius designer like Alber Elbaz to transform the cut of a jogging suit into a powerful chic womenswear-collection. And so he did for Lanvin ss2012. On the runway appeared T-shirts, pencil skirts and loose shirtdresses,  stripped-down but powerful chic. Elbaz adopted the idea of comfy separates and sportiness for this collection. And how! Track pants ( with side stripes), were anything but casual with sexy slits. A white T-shirt had special, structured sleeves. And the stretch scuba material typical of athletic wear was transformed into tight skirts.

There was a definite Eighties vibe to this glamorous streetwear, not in the least because of the mega jewels — crystal crosses and gold chokers.  Some suits were done in green and black snake prints, which, in combination with the soft pleated dresses held with safety pins, reminded of  vintage Versace.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

The house of Christian Dior is still in transition. And while they are in this vacuum, the only thing the design-team can do is designing commercial stuff. The loyal customer still wants to buy new clothes, no?

Bill Gaytten showed a new, subtle version of the Bar jacket with a wide neckline and more streamlined silhouette. The collection never went to the extremes. The jacket was worn over organza blouses and bubble skirts done in airy fabrics. It looked pretty and feminine in pale colors as well as a few shots of red. The color was a light contrast to the graphic black-and-white check motif and geometric embroideries on shirts and dresses. For evening, it was a steady stream of filmy silks, plied with tulle and lace.

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Peter Copping presented and very chic and very French collection at Nina Ricci. But is was also charming and flirting with that typical Sixties haute couture vibe. The silhouette was curvy, the clothes bejeweled and the straw cage hats added an elegant touch.  Starting with constructed lingerie, Copping showed suited looks and dresses, both with full skirts and an hourglass silhouette, in laces, cloqués and printed jacquards. He embellished with delicate patchworks and encrustations of high-sparkle embroideries.

The prints were definitely retro, since the came from the archive of Zina de Plagny,  who’d done a lot of work for the house founder.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Now Olivier Rousteing took over the design-helm at Balmain from Christophe Decarnin the story of superrich and superglamorous still continues. After all, Rousteing was Decarnin’s right hand for years. Las Vegas and bullfighters were his source of inspiration, so there was lots of shimmer on gold or black leather, matador-jackets, suede bustiers and blazers.

The new designer surprised the audience too, with denim skirts and loose (!) pants. What he took from Las Vegas were motel wallpaper patterns for jeans and blazers and floral bedspreads worked into minidresses. Overall it was less rock ‘n roll but still young and sexy.

This was Milan Womenswear ss2012

The fashioncircus already left Milan this morning. But we won’t start with Paris Fashion Week until we said goodbye to Milan. It was a great week, with surprising collections and beautiful people! Arrivederci!

 

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2012

Modern elegance, that is the Marni spring 2012 collection  in two words. Beautiful in it’s simplicity and silhouette, upbeat in it’s color-palette and modern where it comes to print and fabrics. The elegant dresses, just nip-tucked  in the waist, in sorbet-colors where mouth watering, as were the deux pieces. The see through nude-colored skirts that peeped out under the skirts added a sensual touch.

The show started in plain colors, followed by flowerprints in pastels, shades of brown and yellow and multicolored. There was a lightly ethnic vibe in a silver/brown/black print for dresses at the end of the show. But again, this Marni-collection proved that classics can look modern and almost futuristic by the use of high tech fabrics and still be wearable at the same time.

Watch the video here:

 

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