Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2014

Minimalism. Street attitude. Nineties. Logomania. These ingredients were all part of Alexander Wangs ss14 collection. He worked the logo into laser-cut leather jumpers and slipdresses cut out of skinny leather strips sewn together vertically. It blared from the thick elastic waistbands of cutout real viagra pharmacy prescription dresses, and blended subtly into tonal houndstooth-inspired patterns on crisp shirts. It was handled with equal parts irony and sophistication. Adding pink to his typically stark palette was a great way of injecting his lineup with a playful touch. There was also a big homage to Nineties hip-hop style in the denim-inspired jackets and pants.

Hervé Leger Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2014

The bandage dress is synonymous with how to buy viagra in canada sex appeal and Herve Leger. To give the cornerstone of this brand a new look Max and Lubov Azria incorporated hard-edged elements with artful ones into the collection.

The show began with a flurry of zippers, up the front, around the bodice; they also edged ruffles that were fashioned into peplums and godet skirts, resulting in a nice contrast to the feminine skirts that peeked out from underneath. The duo kept their colors subdued.

The Big Round Up Womenswear FW 2013 Part 2

This is the second part of our round up regarding the fall 2013 collections, which focuses on Prints, Fabrics and the designers’ favorite coming season: checks.

CHECK SHOCK

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From left to right: N21, Junya Watanabe, Céline, Jesús Del Pozo, Rag & Bone

A mash up of Scottish tweeds, plaids, checks, Prince of Wales suiting and hounds tooth jacquards. Classic, twisted, cut up, patched or blown up to grandiose proportions. These are definitely all from the now – heritage inspired, college prep, BCBG, archetypal and iconic but reinvigorated – rejuvenating tradition at N21 and Rag & Bone, adding a punk coded sense of rebellion at Junya Watanabe or with artful tailoring at Céline and Jesús Del Pozo. Check marks everywhere!

 

TEXTILE ART

From left to right: Comme des Garçons, Chanel, Hermès, Fendi, Lanvin

Free floating freedom and fun. Cascading swatches of fabrics, rosettes, bows, thick serpentines and bold biomorphic shapes at Comme des Garçons. Rounded flounced belle Époque bustles are a joyful explosion of extravagance at Chanel. Crafted spontaneity at Hermès, fringed skins at Fendi and butterflies appliquéd at Lanvin. All with techno-barbarian enthousiasm. These are exercises in pure texture.

 

PRINT STORY

From left to right: Mary Katrantzou, Rodarte, Tom Ford, Peter Pilotto

Welcome to the catwalk circus. Exalted excess in a cultural cross over ranging from glam, to disco, pop to op and manga to Marvel. Fantastical shadowy landscapes in misty monochromes at Mary Katrantzou and cross-cultural multi ethnic Flash! and Bang! at Tom Ford. The very personal folksy mysticism of Rodarte and the cartoonish verve of Peter Pilotto. We are talking maximalism here!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View Paris Womenswear FW2013: Bed Time

Cosy is not the usual aspect spotted on a Paris catwalk. But nevertheless we met a snug bedtime spirit in Paris with models flaunting out of hotel rooms in silky, lush pyjamas, lace-edged-negligees and flowery dressing gowns. Roomy, soft robes that showed the generous proportions of menswear. Sensual and intimate voluptuous bathrobes lined in marabou. Fabulous, sheltering cashmere wrap-coats in baby blue, pink, camel and blush in smooth, winter-weight woolens and brushed plaids. And thick silk pyjamas printed with English tweed patterns or tender China florals.

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Softness and desire seemed a re-found aspect, in touchable styles that established an intimate dialogue between the masculine and the feminine.

Carven is rounding out with oversize coats in teddy bear textures. Cinematic sceneries at Vuitton, in a film noir esprit, showing various states of dress and undress in a midcentury inspired atmosphere. Stella McCartney goes square, though softened, in snugly, velvet touch robe coats.

We noted a refreshing sense of ease, slightly quirky and off beat and an inspiring invitation to cuddle up.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

That was grunge-de-luxe what Marc Jacobs designed for Louis Vuitton. A bit ironic and provocative, but in a beautiful and sensual way. And melancholic. The set was a circular “hotel” constructed within the vast tent pitched in a Louvre courtyard. The wallpapered corridor housed 50 closed doors which the models opened and exited. The audience became voyeurs, as each “room” featured projections of hotel guests lounging and getting dressed, unaware of the scores of peering eyes.

Jacobs focused on the intimate sartorial gesture: slips, pajamas, robes de chambre. These were paired with some of the season’s best coats and jackets, worn in odd combinations — proportions deliberately awkward, colors sometimes off.

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The pieces were gorgeous:  a herringbone pattern made entirely of embroidered sequins; voluptuous robes lined in marabou. Some coats came in cashmere with deep borders of dégradé sequins; others, in thick silk printed to resemble English tweeds.
Of course, there were Vuitton bags – but without a logo in sight. Jacobs interpreted the house’s classic shapes in tony materials — croc, python, mink and hand-curled goose feathers — often finished with carved ebony or wooden handles.

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

Perhaps the show could have had a few less dress variations in it, but we fully understand Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for leaving them in, since they were all too beautiful. Mostly inspired by the work of Dutch artist like Vermeer the designduo introduced us to their minimal yet ultra elegant selection of mostly dresses. They started off with a A-line black dress, that had long sleeves and a standout lace-like collar and cuffs. Simple, but perfect. Variations to that dress came in blue, embroidered, printed, over the knee and eventually floor sweeping. Laser cut collars, cut outs and transparent parts, coats and a clean blue jumpsuit kept us on the edge of our seat. Not to mention the blue and white gowns decorated by a Delft ceramics pattern. The fact that we’re Dutchies has nothing to do with our opinion about this show. It was just beautiful.

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Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took inspiration from Asian temples — Indian, Nepalese and Chinese — for their fall collection for Kenzo.  The theme included opulent fabrics flush with metallic, such as gold jacquard and flocked lamé that looked like crocodile. They decorated outfits with a cool but cheesy eye motif, shown head-to-toe on a tailored jacket, skinny pants and open-toe booties.
Tjhere was a lot of decoration, but the clothes were kept quiet. They were cut with vaguely Asian references —  robe coats; short, precision-wrap skirts, and shirts with crisp, wide short sleeves — worked in understandable silhouettes that are very contemporary.

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Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

No firework at Viktor & Rolf, but a strong collection full with clothes that were accessible for a lot of women. With beautiful legs, that is. Since the biggest part of the fall collection was leaning on short skirts and dresses. It looked young and fresh, almost as if a young girl tried to modify her clothes herself by cutting and ripping it and putting it together again with lace inserts and embroideries. It was a mix of bouncy sportswear, serious power-dressing and modern sculptured silhouettes. The designers sticked to a black-and-white palette and occasionally injected a subtle Sixties London vibe.  Fanciful touches came via overstated bows, from a giant one on the neckline of a white shirt to another on the shoulder of a gown.

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Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Since Martin himself is no longer on board Maison Martin Margiela has been rediscovering itself. Today’s collection was proof of that as it was not the most coherent line up. Yet the fashion house did present some strong designs that proudly carried the name of the French fashion label. Oversize and menswear seemed to be the red line in the show the houses described as a “rally” in the show notes. Overall, suits, pinstripe waistcoats (and quite a few other ones – patent leather and fur – too). Black and white looks were given a hand painted yellow or pink twist as more color followed on patent orange and red leather and strangely crafted, multicolored mesh tops. The finale of floor sweeping panel dresses that seemed to have some kind of ad texts on them appeared to be a whole other chapter of the Margiela fall collection.

 

 

 

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Yamamoto’s collection on Friday included some of his best ideas and creations put in a new mix fit of clothing for 2013. The designer used eighties different small themes for this show. We spotted workwear, Asian inspiration (kimono sleeves, origami details), arty influences. Lots of black and asymmetry, liked you’d expect. Yet blues, browns touches of orange, blue and purple (as a surprising bright part in the middle of the show) kept the show very much alive. “My role is to get the value of clothing back for everyone: cutting, draping, tailoring. There was no real theme to the collection, I just wanted to make dresses, to tailor and enjoy the value of clothing”, Yamamoto said backstage. And as he felt it was his duty to bring back the value of clothing (that has according to him been gone for a while) he collection may not have originated from a positive point, the overall mood was cheerful. Beautifully crafted creation, perfectly fitting the models’ bodies. No time to look back, the future is bright (orange, blue and purple shaded, that is).

 

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