First View Paris Womenswear FW2014: Knitdressing

 

Knitting is clearly a theme. We list here 4 designers, but can give you many more, who opt for the soft and cuddly. Staging strong women in tender knits, in all its textural and shapely variations.
Sonia Rykiel, plays with traditional body-wraps, all with a Rykiel wink and twist. Sleeve-scarves and semi-pelerines on layers of velours touch crafted jerseys. Stella McCartney’s chunky knit pyjama-style pants might become the seasonal must-have item. She manages to add some sex appeal to this snug look. Wrapping and knotting in a semi-relaxed way is obviously on trend.
Celine shows her knits sleek, lean and slender, in subtle glitz, vibrantly accessorized with crafted jewellery.
We see more artful knit representations at Issey Miyake. Mixing masterful layers of exquisite monochrome textured variations. Oversized blanket wraps, fluffy sweaters over silver sculpted pants.
But there is more – among them the surreal knitting at Viktor & Rolf combining crafted knits with digital cable-knit prints, and Haider Ackermann with sumptuous longer then long rib knitted sweaters and matching pants.
Knits intertwine the tough and the tender.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

Tired of a full month of fashion editors had every reason to stay in Paris till the very last day of fashion week. This morning Nicholas Ghesquière debuted at Louis Vuitton and every fashion professional was eager to discover what his first, highly anticipated collection would be all about. It was about the Vuitton legacy, so the show notes read. Ghesquière took away all the spectacle Marc Jacobs had been creating for the last seasons (remember the train, the escalators, the carousel?) and lead the focus back on the clothes. On a criss-cross of daylight lit catwalks models sported sixties inspired A-line creations. Like knee-length skirts with sweaters vests or little tanktops. Like high waisted patent leather pants with tailored jackets. Like playful printed dresses with front zipper details and shaggy cream trenches. Like patchwork pants with boxy tops and camel swing coats. All in a fall fitting palette of greens, oranges, camels, grays and green, paired with luxury travel bags (no Vuitton show is complete without those) and ankle boots with strap detailing. The bare legs and cleavage might be a little too opportunistic for winter season, but Ghesquière made his point. He gave the French fashion house extra wearability in order to expand the brand’s market internationally, yet added enough edge to keep things modern and us interested.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear, Day 6

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

The Céline-collection for fall 2014 was about diversity, starting with lady-like fit-and-flare coats with off-beat button treatments. That continued with portrait collar tops tucked into wide-legged trousers. This established a subtle retro vibe that went in and out.

The thirties were on Philo’s mind when she was first thinking about the collection, especially women like Hannah Höch and Lee Miller, pivotal figures in the Dada and surrealist art worlds.

Despite the masculine elements in the collection — the oversize, man-styled trousers – Philo’s preferred emphasis was the tenderness of the clothes. That translated into pieces that were very much crafted by hand rather than manufactured. They were as sensual as the tweed knits that pooled extravagantly over platform sandals, as textured as the hazy animal prints. Philo underscored the importance of nature with the lush greenery that sprouted along the catwalk. She imagined her woman running through fields. The clothes themselves often felt bursting with life, with seams feathering and fraying.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

Riccardo Tisci redefined the word Womanly with his fall collection, amplifying the sensuality and subverting the traditional while layering on fantasy, modernity and luxury. The collection was about celebrating femininity and the rock woman.
Tisci created a tension between rich romance and powerful tailoring, opening with the former on buttoned-up silk blouses and skirts with soft pleats and tucks. Increasingly dreamy incarnations of that silhouette came in a leopard-print dress with butterfly wing motifs on the bust, and a butterfly print blouse with a ruffle in the outline of a heart on the chest.

As an aggressive contrast to the flou, many of the soft blouses had stark, linear strips across the shoulder blades. Similar strips and panels recurred throughout the show, adding strokes of color and geometry to his riffs on knit twinsets and tailoring cut with a Forties masculine allure.

The palette deepened and brightened throughout the show on abstract butterfly and snake motifs, leathers and opulent furs. The show culminated on a darkly seductive note: lean gowns with fitted shell-like tops and black pleated skirts.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2014, Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Chloe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

Not young girls walked the Chloé runway on Sunday, but grown women, sophisticad and elegant. Women with taste, who know fashion should be fun but wearable too. And so Waight Keller’s Chloé collection full of loose fitting designs seemed appropriate for women of any kind of shape and size. Strong woolen coats (in pastel shades), leather pants (in shades like nude and burgundy), and fur sweaters (in off white and mustard) were true winter pieces. Yet some of the creations (the second ruffled dress, an airy floral printed number with sheer star shaped patches and a printed skirt with sheer white blouse, to name a few) appeared a little too chilly, even for fall. With the brand’s minimalistic highlights behind us the more sober designs remained the strongest pieces out of the bunch. Apart from a rainbow leopard creation prints failed to make a big impression, while a navy dress with golden buttons around the collar seemed a little too forced. No, forget the party dresses and sheer sexiness; the Chloé woman is on top of her game rocking her every day, slightly oversized, wardrobe, which might not scream fashion, but can make any regular day oh so chic.

First View Paris Womenswear FW2014: Fearless

A fearless mash-up of fashion tribes, fetish dolls, couture fascination, safari chic and hip-hop style. What binds these collections it the extraordinary level of artisanship. These designers quote freely from their personal oeuvre and find ways to mix these with fresh tempting inspirations without loosing their identity.
Rick Owens stages his family tribes in futuristic war costumes. This silhouette actually being one of the single patterned items he showed, reminiscent of Star Wars snow patrols. Wearing slick leather pants, super power bracelets and protective funnel neck collars
Yohji shows us power dolls wrapped in densely padded pillows. Soft cocooning stealth-wear, fantastically trippy in happy handprints.
Raf Simons arms Christian Dior models with couture. Power dressing in layered vibrancy, linking seemingly endless side splits with embroidered decorations, rewriting the secret codes of couture.
Balmain’s designer Olivier Rousteing dresses his global army of freedom in a dramatic, military-turned-tribal collection. Here with optical leather weave wrap skirt topped with an electric pop of red lamb’s fur.
A story of love (to quote Rick Owens) – love for fashion.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2014, Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

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