Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Raf Simons

After two seasons of modern suits with that typical Belgian edge, Raf Simons pushed again the boundaries of menswear. He already played the game of closures at his collection for Jil Sander (with mixed results), but it worked out much better for his own fall collection. Still suits form the center part (but as the designer said earlier: he and his clients are grown up men now), Raf still favors dark colors, but he replaced the buttons with metallic magnetic closures and velcro strips which made a pretty tight silhouette and clean image.  Simons also re-made the traditional trench by separating the coat into halfs and using the lower half as a skirt or protective shield. Besides that he played an interesting graphic game with red, white and blue.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Hermès

For next winter Veronique Nichanian designed a qualitative and diversified menswear collection for Hermès. Just like many desigers Veronique opted for gray as the main color. Though she added some red, blue, green and black.

The Hermès models were well-dressed and much attention was paid to every little detail. From the floral scarfs to the handkerchiefs in the breast-pockets and the chains attached to the trousers.

The collection had velours jackets, turtle necks, woolly cardigans, leather pants and jackets with zippers that were only zipped in the middle.

Over a few coats the models wore a sophisticated leather belt and their large scarfs were tied in a particular way. Two snake leather jackets were real showpieces.

Altogether it was a solid collection with very wearable designs.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Kenzo

With the fw2010 fashion show Antonio Marras proved that after forty years of fashion Kenzo is still on top of the game.

The show started off with models dressed in warm-colored clothes, perfect for fall. A lot of woolly designs were shown. We also saw many checks, long overcoats, sunglasses, hats and some floral prints.

Then the clothes turned gray. At first the gray was combined with leopard printed gloves, shoes and bags. A leopard printed coat definitely stood out, yet not necessarily in a good way.
Other eye-catching pieces were a denim overall and a shiny hounds-tooth coat.

Marras designed many loose-fitting clothes. Especially his pants were much wider than the pants we saw at other fashion shows.

Towards the end all models headed outside for the show’s finale. There Place des Victoires was transformed into a film set, inspired by the movie Traffic (1971). Thirty vintage Citroën cars were driving around in the same direction as the models were walking. An old bus was picking them up.

What a great finale!

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Dior Homme

Sisters of Mercy’s ‘Temple of Love’  reverberated through the dark, cavernous hall where the Dior Homme-show took place. The set was spread with chunks of coal — a reminder of the kind of warm, smoldering color designer Kris van Assche  had in mind while designing the collection.

Floor sweeping trenchcoats,  hooded robes and cropped suits with boots dominated the collection. Innovative variations on the classic suit, which van Assche slashed and distorted, giving it new proportions and a faux Amish Country silhouette. Luxury, creativity and comfort were the guiding principles of this fall-winter 2010 menswear collection.
Working in a reduced palette of black, charcoal and oatmeal, the Belgian designer served up oversized jackets with long, fluttering front panels that tapered into dangly V-shapes, pairing them with generously cut cropped pants. Some of the jackets were fitted with trompe l’oeil flaps on one side, while others had lapels that morphed into scarves.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Ann Demeulemeester

It was an almost poetic show at Ann Demeulemeester, also thanks to the building – the Couvent des Cordeliers. Is it a coincidence a lot of collections have that classic, mysterious Sherlock Holmes feeling, with all the capes, keys & chians ?

Black, white and beige were the main colors and Demeulemeester wrapped her men in belted (fur) coats, jackets and loose trousers. All mixed in that familiar nonchalant way we know from the designer. The chest and neckpieces of irridescent black feathers were stunning and added a special, dark but glamourous touch to the collection.

Paris Menswear fw2010 Impressions: Kayneeee!

Isn’t that? No it couldn’t be. Yes, it’s him! It’s Kanye West on his way to another show. He just can’t get enough of fashion!

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: John Galliano

The invites for John Galliano’s fashion show were folded into Chinese take out boxes. Yet Chinese influences were not the only influences Galliano chose for his fw2010 show.

According to the show notes with this collection Galliano evoked the multi-faceted personality and lifestyle of Sherlock Holmes. This lead to four different types of men appearing on the runway.

At first Galliano’s moustached detective men wore several layers of large trenchcoats. The coats had leather and fur accents and a checked pattern.

Than the classic, dandy boys came by, wearing tight suits, ties, corsets(!) and bowler hats.

Next we saw several warrior types in multi-colored satin outfits showing a great deal of their bronzed bodies. Again we saw bruises and blood on these models.

At the end Chinese-looking men strolled the runway in (floral printed) silk, transparent and embellished garments.

The finale was the perfect ending of a spectaculair show. Flames were thrown high in the air as John Galliano himself appeared.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Yves Saint Laurent

For his fall/winter collection Yves Saint Laurent decided to make a movie. The brand hired Bruce Weber to produce a short film called Ain’t Nothin’ Like The Real Thing. The film, which contained footage of the male YSL models posing and dancing, quickly made it’s way around the web, shortly after it’s release.

Unfortunately in the film Stefano Pilati’s new designs for YSL couldn’t be seen. Therefor he held a show.  He designed perfect trenchcoats with buttons at the back and checked blazers. In several looks he used a scarf as a belt on top of a coat. And some long tunic shirts were visible from under the jackets.

Yet Pilati’s jumpsuits and drop-crotch pants (popular in women’s fashion at the moment) were most impressive. The jumpsuits had a wide rounded neckline and all had a matching belt in the same fabric. The models wore them with T-shirts and jackets.

Gray and black were the main shades in this collection. And although Pilati used some female items, he managed to turn them into real menswear for next winter.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Givenchy

What would Jesus wear nowadays? If he shopped at Givenchy, he’d wear sandals, black stockings, a kilt, shorts and a gold crown of thorns necklace. The models at Givenchy looked like modern monks in their black and white clothes, black sandals (sometimes with, ugh, black shiny stockings), high collars and long coats. No laughs, no fun – this was serious man! But without all the fuzz, the basic collection is about a suit, a puffy jacket, a kilt, a white shirt and a long coat. Enough to mix endlessly.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Rick Owens

Rick Owens continued to search the depths of the dark side with a fall-winter 2010 menswear collection of gender-bending, space age-y designs ready for the apocalypse. Androgynous models with enviable cheekbones skulked down the catwalk in bulky, tie-waisted trenches in lacquered microfiber or wrinkly microfiber with stiff, standup necklines and drop-crotched harem pants. Some wore ribbed turtlenecks with knee-length flaps in the front and back, while others sported leather tank tops that left their backs bare.

Overall, the collection, with its asymmetrical hemlines and great floppy flaps of fabric, strayed away from his usual somber palette, regarding some looks in light gray or shiny off-white.

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