Diane Von Furstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Diane von Furstenberg presented a strong collection full of pretty colors, bold prints and a hefty dose of embellishment.
Von Furstenberg, working with creative director Yvan Mispelaere, layered several dresses over pants, including a draped one-shoulder version with trousers in the same colorful print, and a linear navy halter dress over fluid orange pants. Adornment abounded: She decked out a suit and a top in little metal spheres, which she also piled onto her statement-making heels. Draped blouses with billowing sleeves and palazzo pants added to the collection’s glamour.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It seems Victoria Beckham has decided she wanted to to advance her collection. She accomplished this smartly for spring, most notably by adding chic, tailored separates. From a minimalist baseline, she worked interesting details into coats and jackets, slim pants and crisp shirts, the perfect ease of their combinations showing the hand of Beckham’s new stylist, Joe McKenna.
Yet Beckham still loves a great dress. She also incorporated feminine touches via lingerie details — bra tops and straps peeking out from under dresses — and various types of lace.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The glow in the dark-effect on the ivory clothes of Alexander Wang was a cool ending to his ss2013 presentation. The impression left after a very fast show was one of sharp, minimalist sport. There were boxy “hockey jerseys” worn over tailored shorts — skinny and Bermuda styles — and some of the models wore lacquered porcelain helmets. Wang rarely strayed from black and white, and when he did, it was a few notes of beige leather and gray. The silhouette was  spare and crisp, in stark cotton and exotics, such as snakeskin.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2012

From the flowing, moody jewel-colored Seventies style to a more constructed, hard and geometric jazzy style – that’s the turn Gucci-designer Frida Giannini took this season. And this anniversary-collection looks quite different. Polished as ever, but with jazzy influences (flapper-dresses), references from the Twenties and Thirties, Louise Brooks, African Art and Man Ray. But also the geometric lines of the art deco style the American way – as in the Chrysler building – and the metallic surfaces. Giannini herself said in the show-notes she wanted to show an optical side of femininity, a sculptural glamor.

Well, glamorous it was, and polished but somehow it lacked a certain softness and sensuality. Maybe it’s because of the mix of equestrian elements like striped, double-breasted jockey-jackets, the green/ocre/white and black. Or the straight lines and hard metallics.

Hopefully we’ll find more of Gucci’s sensual warmth in the museum that’s soon to be opened in Florence.

 

 

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