Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

It was the second time this season we had to say goodbye to a talented designer. More than a week after Raf Simons left in tears, it was now Stefano Pilati’s turn to present his last collection for Yves St. Laurent. After seven years he definitely left the fashion stage. A place some people think he should have left much earlier since his collections were not always well received. despite all the critic, it was thanks to Pilati that the house of YSL made profit after years in the red.

Pilati’s last collection was one of dark sensuality, something he presented before. The models looked perfectly glamorous and they were dressed in a style of aggressive femininity, thin black silhouettes, cinched waists and lots of leather. Jackets had strong shoulders, pants and skirts were lean and sleek. More intimidating were the dresses in colored mesh, like the harness of a knight.

 

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2012 Day 6

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

 

Giambattista Valli Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

For next winter Giambattista Valli presented quite a sober collection. He showed knit dresses, checked coats, knee length skirts and sleeveless tops all with one and the same focus point; a wide belt around the models’ waists. Perhaps the designs were a little less sexy than in a average Valli collection, but it definitely fit right in with today’s trends. Looks were cosy and appeared perfect for a cold winter day. Yet some of these looks can be deceiving since some of the knits were actually trompe l’oeil effect printed on airy fabrics. Still, no matter what choice of fabric all outfits were perfectly balanced. Tops looked as great with fur-ish skirts as they did with transparent pleated ones. Some full on graphical printed (and colored) looks (Marni-ish) and a golden croc leather coot stayed classy. And the sheer evening gowns which ended the show mixed covered sexiness with sophistication in a unique way. Now that is how you present a wearable cohesive collection.

 

Chloé Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Pastels for winter, you gotta love it. Elaborating on this year’s major summer trend Clare Waight Keller brought on pastel blues, yellows and shades of pink. Inspired by London and Paris she mixed outdoor with elegance, sporty with sophistication, bold with subtle and grunge with grace. Belted woolen coats and large kable knit sweaters are bound to become the ‘most wanted’ pieces of the collection. As enormous kneelength shorts and beautiful lace items proved to have some showstopping power of their own. It’s definitely over with the minimalistic designs for Chloe, yet this French fashion house still doesn’t need a lot of fuzz to make a mind blowing impression.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Stella McCartney focused at the English country life and mixed that with a more urban, sartorial style. The clothes ranged from slouchy low-slung trousers to the more feminine, like curvaceous brown tweed dresses with ribbed knit collars and a trio of colored knits worked in the multi-textured Aran tradition.
McCartney also put an athletic direction into the series of dresses that closed the show — curvy and in ergonomically arranged collages of Brit tweeds and techno stretch.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2012 Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

The Givenchy-collection was built on strength and confidence, with elements of equestrian motifs from the Seventies. Riccardo Tisci’s signature tailoring came first with variations on riding jackets done in combinations of pony hair, fur and leather that were placed on precise panels. More elaborate outerwear showed Tisci’s leather and fur workmanship, with graphic, diagonal patches of red, black and brown fur spliced on a jacket.
In the end the designer brought some lingerie-like dresses, soft and feminine with their lace-appliquéd, camisole-like tops and pleated skirts.

Issey Miyake Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Benches with dresses formed the opening scene at Issey Miyake. Minutes later those same dresses were sent out on the runway worn by models. The knit pieces didn’t have the best possible fit and all seemed a little strange, but didn’t seem like it was a mistake. Remarkable were the pleated, ruffled and draped grey skirt and vest with light blue detailing and the bright printed suits. And those ‘Michelin’ coats looked unique too. Bright colored leggings added a sportive touch, while two final colored looks (beautifully shown by darker models) represented some kind of streetwise meets eighties vibe. Different from a lot of other brands Miyake’s models were well covered up. No cut-outs or sheer ensembles here, so conquering those cold winter temperatures in his layered, blown up coats won’t be a problem, at all.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Inspired by drawings of Aubrey Beardsley (an influential illustrator and writer in the late 19th century) Bill Gaytten came up with luxurious ensembles for English women. His models were all dressed up in asymmetrical capes and dresses with enormous collars, large gloves and feather fascinators as their accessories. Especially the delicate designs in pleated satin and embroidered sheer fabrics appeared graceful. Done in shades of olive green, cinnamon, light mint and ruby red they seemed perfect for winter. And even though you could see every bit of the models’ bodies through them it still made the girls look classy.

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Christophe Lemaire opened his show  with a group of platinum-card-holding gaucho girls, with tweed blanket shawls fringed in black leather, ballooning pants tucked into boots.  The South American accent gave an sexy accent to the masculine tailoring. The sizing was loose and generous. The outerwear was strong, especially woolen coats and capes in green. There was also a Hermès version of the tracksuit: T-shirs, cardigan and slim pants in light suede in spicy shades. For evening Lemaire suggested silk skirts in foulard prints and loose velvet tops.

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