Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear Spring 2016

“Let’s get digital, digital. I wanna get digital. Let’s get into digital.” The first song (a parody of Olivia-Newton John’s ‘Physical’) suddenly popped into our minds by seeing the Louis Vuitton’s newest collection, showed in the brand’s brand new Louis Vuitton Fondation. Perhaps it was slightly to bubbly for this considerable tough collection. They choose Moderat’s ‘New Error’ as the (yes, perfect indeed) soundtrack to compagnon the big screens beaming futuristic outer space lights. The fully packed front row (Catherine Deneuve, Miranda Kerr, Michelle Williams and many more A-listers) was about to take off and rise up into, well, the future perhaps. We were looking at the frontiers of the digital era and took a trip into sci-fi. It was one of the few shows that didn’t look back, but forward. Way forward. A theme like this can be quite challenging for such a big and established brand like Louis Vuitton, but it has proved many times it can translate its heritage from the past into the future. Any future so to speak. Nicolas Ghesquière did a great job finding a in between way making a clear sartorial statement. He opened the show with a a bubblegum pink leather jacket edged up with patent black tape, a black patchwork skirt and heavy black sports-sandals. It set the tone right away: this girl is a tough one (literally, the models had their hands bound like boxers). Even so is her wardrobe. Dazzling silvered dresses and coats, ‘oily’ holographic sheen, metallic puffball or bubbled skirts, shiny knits, in-your-face zippers running over a leather skirt or on the frontside of trousers. But if we’re talking about IT-items for next season, there might be a good chance the biker jackets with monogrammed sleeves and LV prints will be a huge hit amongst their more youthful and experimental customer.

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Taking inspiration from etnic cultures is something quite familiair for spring summer collections. What can we say: in summer we mostly prefer wearing bold colours, playful prints and anything that makes us feel ready for summer. Creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took us to wild Africa. Or they took wild Africa to Europe. Or not they, we did. Cause their inspiration is some with a heavy and controversial undertone, it was about the thousands of African refugees that have made their way to southern Europe, Italy in this case, to save their own lives. We were not only witnessing pretty dresses and must have shoes and bags, but also the humanitarian crisis that Europe is facing right now. What does fashion have to do with this? It gives a message. In this case: tolerance. As Maison Valentino described it on Twitter: “Primitive, tribal, spiritual, yet regal” and the collection was a “journey to the beginning of time and the essential of primitive nature.” They translated this into a mix of Italian en African essentials. Roman influences with tribal treatments. We saw Masai-style beadwork, bone necklaces, raffia, laser cut leatherwork, feathery details, micro studs and beading on tulle, white ceramic neckpieces (chockers), embellishment, embroidering and fringing. Not to speak the countless floor sweeping translucent red carpet ready show stoppers at the end of the show. The models wearing cornrows. Bongo drums as musical background. There was so much eye for detail (the mask details on the bags), craftsmanship, grace and elegance. It showed the best of both worlds, easily joining forces to create breathtaking beauty. It may not work like this in the ‘real world’, but it was the best message to put out there right now.

Iris van Herpen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Had Iris van Herpen shown models in vacuum plastic bags on her runway before. Today actress Game of Thrones Gwendoline Christie played part in her decorum. The tough, tall actrice who you’d hardly identify with the fragile work of Iris, motionless lay on a tree to which her dress was woven throughout the whole show, as the collection was inspired by the way plants grow. Quaquaversal Iris named her collection. Latin for “going off in all directions”, something the 31-year old Dutch designer can identify herself with, collaborating with artists in so many different disciplines. For this collection Iris was coached by François-Henri Pinault, the big guy at French luxury goods holding company Kering, part the Andam Award she won last year. An influence perhaps that made Iris put more focus on wearibility and fashion, cause in this collection they played a bigger part than ever before. Like in all her designs today craftsmanship and technology worked together perfectly today. Skirts, tops and dresses looked impeccable shown in a sophisticated palette of nudes, greys and silver hues. Standout pieces by themselves, yet to think those strong designs were created by laser-cutting and hand-weaving made them all the more impressive.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear SS2016, Day 6

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Valentino dress, that vintage Dior or their latest Celine skirt? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

David Laport Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Saint Laurent Paris Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Spring 2016

The pitch-black story continues. After the rock stars slash groupies from the fall 2015 collection and the dark menswear collection from last season, LA-based designer Hedi Slimane decided to roll out the black carpet even more. It felt like diving deeper into this young rocker chick’s wardrobe. Add a splash of Courtney Love (who was actually there at the show) and Kate Moss and you’re ready to bake the cake.

When we heard that the primary source of this collection was the everyday wardrobe we were kind of surprised. Because everyday it was: a white cotton camisole teamed up with a regular jeans and trenchcoat or a biker jacket with jeans. We even spotted blue denim dungarees with wellie boots. Everything but the familiar Slimane DNA. Luckily for the true Slimane admirers and buyers, between the more casual garments, there were plenty of sexy I-dont-give-a-fuck dresses, half hanging on your shoulders, and little nighttime pieces that leave your breasts out in the open. All silky, glittery or covered in animal print. Yet again we saluted the mini slipdresses (a huge trend for next spring!), but also drapey bias gowns and the finale existed of almost all-black gowns with high center-slits that will make you wanna find (not wait for) a party. Any party, that is. Or throw one yourself. Add a oversize denim jacket, motorcycle jacket, golden varsity jacket, or furry vest and you’re ready to go. Oh wait, before we forget: perhaps lose the frown and pout. You can wear the most gorgeous dress and even a crown, but in the end it’s the face everyone will remember.

Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Grand Palais changed into Airport Paris Cambon for one day. A reference to Rue Cambon in Paris, where Chanel opened it’s first store. And while most of us might dress for comfort when boarding a plane. This morning the Chanel models looked as chic as can be while catching their flights. Airport life never looked this elegant, but Karl Lagerfeld gave us an idea of what it could look like.
Colorful (with lots of blues, reds and whites) and busy printed, so it turns out. With not just the typical tweed skirt suit in all it’s variations – a Chanel design classic that never goes old – but theme inspired departure board prints and plane patterns too. Long skirts were paired with pants as shorter co-ords seemed quite risqué for any regular flight personnel. But then again this is Chanel’s world and here everything is possible. Like the fantasy printed sweater and skirt worn by Imaan Hammam or a denim on denim flared skirt and jacket with puffy sleeves that popped up in a series of denim looks towards the end of the show.
Anything and everything was airport themed. From the Chanel hard-case wheelie carry-on bags to the sandals with implemented runway lights around the soles. As the models sported either shiny mirrored sunglasses or blue make-up where sunglasses (sleeping masks perhaps?) should be. Those chunky chains, pearl necklaces and statement cuffs might take a while a security, but who would mind spending some extra time at this luxurious Chanel Airport?

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Check, check, check. That’s how Stella McCartney opened her spring 2016 show. All in vivid colours such as red, green, black and yellow. Some of them as preppy polo shirts, as one shoulder dresses or maxi-skirts and tanktops. It was the perfect start to give you this relaxed, summer vibe.

It was a typical McCartney collection: sharp, simple tailoring with a feminine touch and a considerate approach to wearability. Because she knows like no other how to design clothes that actual women really would like to wear. In Dutch we have a saying for this, and it sort of sounds like: from a nice plate you cannot eat. Which means: only beauty won’t work. But that doesn’t seem to be the problem for McCartney. Her collection breaths comfort, and we were breathing ‘oooh’s’ and ‘aaah’s’ of excitement. The plissé pleated top over a plissé pleated skirt both in contrast zingy colours, the asymmetrical poloshirts worn over body-con stretchy skirts, and raw indigo denim looks. The familiair elliptical hemlines and slouchy tailoring was there as well. The collection ended with a range of lovely black and white, orange, yellow and blue (evening)dresses, providing discreet glimpses of skin and with sporty mesh inserts. Super sexy and feminine, but no I-cant-breath-or-move-in-this-dress situations. And that’s what we thank her a million for.

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

While maximalism was upcoming in so many fashion collections of the last few weeks, there was no sign of the more is more style rule at Hermes. It was as minimal as so many fashion houses have been showing over the last few years. Including the model’s barely there hair & make-up. Not necessarily a bad thing, of course. Without any distracting chandelier earring or neon colored troll hair our eyes were solely on the clothes. A selection of practical day wear in a vibrant color palette. Not mind blowing attire, but very wearable strong pieces. Like a white pleated midi skirt with matching long sleeve top with graphic lines. Or a red midi co-ord paired with sneakers in the same shade. Not to mention those white short combined with a sleeveless cream colored trench. Simple yet strong. Some outfits perhaps were a bit too crisp and clean and a little too much of what we’ve been seeing before the last couple of seasons. Not a collection to make headliners, but luckily Hermes’ Apple watch collection – to be released this week, yet not one pair at sight in the show – is already doing that. So not to worry. After all accessories are bringing in the big bucks at Hermes.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear SS2016, Day 5

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Valentino dress, that vintage Dior or their latest Celine skirt? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

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