Christophe Decarnin leaves Balmain

Balmain is parting ways with Christophe Decarnin, the designer who transformed the dusty old fashion house into a red hot label, coveted by jet-set party girls worldwide. The Paris-based house made the announcement Wednesday, but did not give any details about the reasons behind the decision.
Rumors about Decarnin’s health have swirled since the shy designer failed to appear for a bow after his fall-winter 2011-12 ready-to-wear show last month. At the time, a spokesman for the house dismissed rumors that he was in a mental hospital, saying that he was resting on doctor’s orders.

Decarnin, the mastermind behind Balmain’s now-hallmark peaked-shouldered jackets and ultra-minidresses, joined Balmain in 2005. He came out of nowhere to head the house and with every collection he did for Balmain, sales doubled.  So who and what did Decarnin have to thank for all the success?

– The supercool girls. Balmain has become the label of the supercool girls. The girls in London and Paris who work as assistants at fashion magazines, design studios and P.R. firms, or who have some terrific family-tree connections they swing from. They’re 21 or 22 years old.  Julia Restoin Roitfeld wears Balmain. So does Charlotte Casiraghi, a daughter of Princess Caroline.

– French Vogue. French Vogue has had a lot to do with Decarnin’s success. He said himself in an interview with NY Times. Roitfeld and her daughter wore Balmain to the Cannes Film Festival. And Roitfeld and her lieutenants Emmanuelle Alt and Marie-Amélie Sauvé — have taken this relatively isolated man and molded him in the image of French Vogue.

– France. The clothes are unmistakenly French. Or like Cathy Horyn of the NY Times put it: “If I see young Bardots and Birkins bobbing around St.-Tropez half naked, I’ve seen precisely what he wants me to see. In their cut and fit, in their energy and implacably dirty sex appeal, these clothes could not have come from anywhere else but France — and not even France but Paris.”

– The sky-high prices. A pair of jeans or a cotton T-shirt cost about a 1000 euro, while a beaded jacket can cost more than 10.000 euro. It’s almost offensive. Decarnin said the prices reflect the quality of workmanship and fabrics, as well as the company’s limited structure. But those high prices might also be part of the message: my stuff costs a lot.

But why did it took so long to become successful? According to Emanuelle Alt – a long time fan and stylist of his shows – Decarnin has the talent, but is too shy.  “If you always stay in the shadows and don’t have the connections, it’s more difficult. Some people have a lot less talent, but they push themselves and go out and meet people.’’ Decarnin said he never goes to clubs.

Well, fashion in the street owns a lot to his trashy collections. Looking back, you see the streetwise girls took his punky, rock chick-style, with skinny jeans, T-shirts en fringed boots. Also: the revival of the strong shoulder and the fitted jacket. Even the long, bohemian flowerdresses he did in one of his early collections dominate the coming summer-fashion – although we have to thank Dolce & Gabbana for that too.

Watch a video about the last collection of Christophe Decarnin for Balmain:

Streetfashion Toronto Fashion Week FW2011 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Toronto Fashion Week.

Streetfashion Toronto Fashion Week FW2011 Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Toronto Fashion Week.

Fashion is fun!

A model’s life is fun, and so is fashion. Just watch the video of Justin Wu. It makes you laugh!

Streetfashion Toronto Fashion Week FW2011 Day 1

TPS-member Jon Loek went back to his home-country  to catch some atmosphere at LG Toronto Fashion Week. It’s cold, but that doesn’t stop people dressing up! So we really want to know what you are wearing during the coming fashionweeks. Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent?  We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Toronto Fashion Week.

Round Up Paris FW2011

There was nothing girly on the catwalks in Paris during the fall 2011-presentations. In fact, it was a very mature look: elegant, dressed-up and in control. Collections that moved from 30’s to 60’s. Strict tailoring created sober and understated silhouettes and the bold sculpturing reminded us more then once of former Balenciaga collections. Apart from these ‘heritage collections’ with their disciplined sobriety there was sheer doom and gloom. As if Paris sensed darker emotions this season compared to New York, Milan and London. We were delighted to meet sudden touches of glam, an unexpected hint of glitter, adventurous flashes of plastic and a single humorous touch.

GEOMETRIC

Lot’s of graphic, androgynous suiting plus black and white blocking. YSL fused rigorous elegance to masculine flair.

HAUTE BOURGEOIS

Prim suits and proper coordinates. Miu Miu more elegant then ever which confirmed the trend for a more grown up and dressed up look.

SOBRIETY: Minimalism to be continued. Precious sober looks, precise, careful and well balanced.

MINIMALISM

At Celine – where sobriety was conceived, there was this constant feel for minimalism: understated sensible shapes that made her simple fur coats look extravagant. She signs for another season of flawless and streamlined urban uniform dressing.

MODERN GLAM

The look that inspired us most. Where doom and gloom, from grunge to Goth, proved itself as a genuine Paris catwalk trend, Haider Ackerman turned it into a feasible and desirable inspiration. Glamorous in precious jewel shades, wrapped and draped generously in fluid silks.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

Au revoir Paris

We say goodbye to a wonderful fashionseason full with new ideas. We also say goodbye to all those beautiful fashionlovers who dressed themselves up  everyday to please us, you and of course because they enjoy it!

We leave Paris with some good memories. And here’s some atmosphere we want to share with you. We’ll take a short break to catch up some sleep 😉 And we’ll be back to you soon!

Miu Miu Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The Miu Miu show was about Modern Glamour according to Miucca Prada. The glamour of  discreet dresses, with wide shoulders, sometimes bulked up with fur and decorated with glittering flora and fauna. The sparkle was matched by glittering shoes.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Well, that was quite a show at Louis Vuitton this morning. Marc Jacobs was in the mood for some strong mistresses. The inspiration seem to come from the movie Night Porter. But according to Marc Jacobs explanation the inspiration came form the obsession people have for Loui Vuitton-bags etc. “The definition is an unreasonable obsession with objects or things. Which is sometimes Vuitton bags” he told WWD.

So it was extravagance to the max, with an 18-karat gold handbag cuffed to a girl’s wrist. There was a retro, hotel-inspired elevator bank that rose from the floor below and were the models started out. Almost everyone carried bags, not all in gold, but in python, harlequin-cut shearling, embroidered monogram rubber.
Python came lacquered; fake fur, waxed; guipure lace, made to look like plastic. There was lots of see through, and also  rubberized, plasticized and waxed fabrics with police-hats, silk-stockings, jodhpurs. But also more wearable clothes like  tweed coats and jackets taken from men’s classics which were reshaped into hourglasses and sleek sweaters.

Streetfashion Paris FW2011 Day 7

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

« Previous Page — Next Page »