The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 1

Spotting trends, common threads, strong statements and influences was not an easy task this S’2013 catwalk season. What does this tell us about the present status of fashion? Is this the outcome of the current economic turmoil? Making designers opt once more for carefulness, minimalism and restraint? Does this push immaculate tailoring and supreme crafts? Excitement more hidden in cut and materials then in expressive aesthetics?

Reflecting on this we concluded that there was pure concentration on the making of beautiful clothes rather then strong fashion statements.

We saw lines of models wandering like babbling brooks, very interesting but far from mind goggling. The strongest acts of expressionism where in the sphere of geometrics and linear patterning. An interesting pulse came from textile technology, novel finishing and techno-crafted embellishment. Outspoken silhouettes where most inspired by the Orient, which was a follow up from what started previous seasons, rather then being a novelty. Understated black and white reigned when it came to coloring. And the return of patterning was near to non-existent.

So it will be the high street in desperate need of ways to differentiate, that will fuel the pattern trend, or it will take another season to reflect on it. And let’s be honest … in the context of recent catwalks, the few collection showing pattern, print and decorative accessorizing seemed quiet trivial and out of sink.

The lessons learned where: ‘how to be beautiful’, rather then ‘how to be fashionable’. And what can be wrong with that?

But… after seasons of flash backs and heritage, playing safe and conservatism… aren’t we in need of excitement and entertainment? Isn’t this what catwalk shows should be about? To be honest… we would have loved to see the sparkle of the unexpected.

The fun is, it’s there! Just look at the street photography during the catwalk shows. There the fire of decorative expressionism and eccentricity is burning.  It is all in the mix.

Nevertheless we list you 9 inspiring directions, spotted at the international catwalks of New York, Milan and Paris. The first three are:

OPTICAL STRIPES

Where Marc Jacobs and Moschino show a literary revival of the swinging 60s, Aquilano Rimondi, Costume National and Sportmax add a contemporary twist to manipulative and illusionist black and white geometrics. From neat linear stripes to optical cut, patched and scattered blocks. Alternating contrasts of matte and shine, as well as transparency and opaque.

OPENWORK

There is a massive interest in materials, in techno-crafted embellishment and innovative manufacturing. Sportmax lasercutted hounds tooth patterns where Alexander Wang cuts and carves in more organic ways. Michael Kors punches sail rings and rivets where, Christopher Kane shows spectacular updates of quilting and lace, where, Balmain goes over the top showing glamazones in leather embellished with a layering of techniques.

NEW TAILORING

Works of art or couture mathematics? Costume National shows graphic cuts and sharp asymmetrics, balancing layers and proportions. Balenciaga confirms the important role that the sleeveless jackets will play coming seasons, martial arts reflect in Haider Ackermann’s wrap suits, where Narciso Rodriguez goes classy, Givenchy throws layers and Dior goes for powerful contours.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

 

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, part 6

The last day of their stay in New Dehli India, Dutch Fashion Here & Now organized a workshop catwalkphotography  with Team Peter Stigter. Also the Indigo Embassy popped up hosted by James Veenhoff.

 

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, Frontrow & Afterparty

Who was sitting front row at the Dutch Fashion Here & Now India show last week-end? Plus, who attended the afterparty? Take a look for yourself.

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, Backstage

Take a look backstage at the show of Dutch Fashion Here & Now that took place this week end in New Dehli, India. Make-up artist Ellis Faas demonstrated her creative skills.

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, the Show

Dutch Fashion Here & Now opened India Fashion Week yesterday with a show that celebrated fashion in all its parts: craftsmanship, fantasy, glamor, style. The Dutch label *DIED* presented their custom made shirts, Jan Taminiau and Suneet Varma collaborated on a glamorous and  elaborated collection and Roheet Ghandi and Rahul Karma showed their contemporary pret a porter. Part of the production was the soundtrack made by Starstudded Studios, make-up by Ellis Faas and runway photography by Peter Stigter.

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, part 5

Diederik Verbakel and Marieke Holthuis are part of Dutch Fashion Here & Now in India. They are founders of the label *DIED*, which stands for products with a soul. They travel the world searching for crafts and inspiration which feed their collections: fashion with a keen eye for authentic and traditional techniques. For their introduction in India they made ten custom made outfits: they went to India with ten basic white T-shirts that are being transformed into hand-crafted, hand-painted and hand-dyed *DIED* artworks.

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, part 4

Here are some impressions of our stay in New Dehli, India. We are part of Dutch Fashion Here & Now, together with other Dutch fashion-pro’s. Read more about it here .

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, part 3

Dutch designer Jan Taminiau loves Indian embroidery and traditional Indian unpolished jewelry and he has used the sari’s draping and pleating technique in his dresses. So working together with Suneet Varma on a co-creation collection during Dutch Fashion Here & Now is a treat to him, the duo will show this evening at the opening of India Fashion Week. In the Indian press Taminiau stated he is very excited. “The idea to have two worlds meet in creativity and passion is very exciting and new. I feel my work has a strong connection to the craftsmanship and luxurious femininity that India is famous for.”

 

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, part 2

Dutch designer Jan Taminiau is part of the delegation in New Dehli during Dutch Fashion here & Now. And the best of Indian fashion joined hands with him, designer Suneet Varma (a Bollywood favorite in India) is collaborating with Taminiau on a co-creation collection being showed tonight. Both designers worked together during the fittings, but they also joined forces in the ateliers.

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, part 1

Dutch Fashion Here & Now aims to create awareness beyond borders of the Dutch fashion design identity – from academy to industry- by creating sustainable networks between Dutch fashion entrepreneurs and foreign countries with aspirational consumer markets and production facilities. This week a delegation is present at India Fashion Week in New Dehli, and Team Peter Stigter is joining them, but also Mariette Hoitink, James Veenhoff, Jan Taminiau, Ellis Faas and Star Studded Studios. They and others will exchange their knowledge and experience in workshops and collaborations with designers and other fashion-entrepeneurs.

First stop was a cocktail at the Dutch Embassy in New Dehli.

Dutch Fashion Here & Now is an initiative of HTNKs NL Fashion Incubator Foundation and is part of the Dutch DFA-Design Fashion & Architecture program. You will find updates at the website of Dutch Fashion Here & Now

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