SportMax Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

Forget sailor hats, bateau necklines and Breton stripes; at Sportmax we were presented with a different type of sailor chic. A nautical collection less obvious although every now and then still very blunt. Modern and slightly minimalistic (if it wasn’t for the chain motif, large eyelets and big buttons) were the jumpsuits, sailor pants, boxy jackets and shift dresses in a mix of black, blue, white, tangerine and yellow. Bright yellow, done in leather inspired by the looks of a sou’wester, that got large fish net prints on it towards the end of the show. And we can assure you, a fishnet never looked this chic.
No figure hugging, chest baring or leg revealing here. These were maritime looks for the sophisticated. Making the collection suitable for a large target audience. And they might have been cruise inspired, they’re not necessarily best to take with you on a tropical trip. These pieces belong to the wardrobe of a city girl.

Fendi Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

There were no references in Fendi’s show. “Retro is over”, stated Karl Largerfeld backstage. And he might just be right. When will fashion be done with the looking back and using bygone decades as an inspiration? Like always Karl Lagerfeld (and his design partner at Fendi Silvia Venturini Fendi) took the lead and decided that time is now. And so their SS2016 collection felt fresher than a daisy.
Would you think every possible piece of fashion has already once been designed, Fendi proved there’s still so much newness to explore. Like those billowy skirts and leather harnesses, like high waisted pants and leather tops done in a palette of black, army green, air force blue and Soviet red. Like those high necks and puffy sleeves. Silhouettes were soft, feminine and billowy in contrast to the show’s urban (concrete everywhere) backdrop. Floral embroideries, whip stitching, braided and smocking effects turned every look into a one of a kind. Toughness vs femininity.
And if you thought those high necks were a Victorian reference or those strong shoulders must have been inspired by the eighties. Well, they were not. “When tradition meets the future, you don’t know what period anything is from”, Karl stated.
What a refreshing way of looking at fashion just like it is. No eighties, nineties or Victorian references here. Just 2016 exquisite summer wear like you’ve never seen before.

Prada Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

If there’s one thing you can be sure about when it comes to Prada shows each season, it’s to expect the unexpected. So what to think of a show called ‘conservative eccentricity’? Miuccia Prada presented her Spring 2016 collection in a golden room, therefore they transformed the headquarters in Milan. All that gold interior matched perfectly with the heavy-metal mouths on the models, one of the most discussed details -same goes for the baby hairs- of the show. Gold mouths? Wait, what? How? Why? It was all the work of make-up mastermind Path McGrath. And you better get used to it, because what Miuccia Prada says normally goes.

This collection was, just like previous ones, based on the steady main pillars femininity, strength, and style. The main silhouette was a boxy jacket and skirt, which looked conservative indeed. But at Prada nothing is what is seems, so don’t fall for ‘just a jacket’ or ‘just a skirt’. We signed for modern tailoring with a twist. And that’s where the eccentricity comes in, that was translated into semi-transparant pieces revealing all there’s underneath (but still ladylike), XXL paillette lady coats, retro colours, extravagant accessories, bold metallic stripes or mixing so many different prints and textures that would’ve normally hurt your eyes but seem to work perfectly now. Miuccia Prada wasn’t present herself because of a family bereavement, but we would like to sent her a big bravo. She proved once more why she’s the leader of the fashion pack.

Max Mara Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

You know that moment, most times early in the morning, when you’re in hurry and you button up your coat in the wrong way? Like a weird asymmetric zig zag buttoning. And you go like: shit, another minute lost. Well that, according to Max Mara, wasn’t so bad after all. In fact, it’s runway material. The models showed many trenchcoats and double-breasted pea coats all buttoned up the wrong way. It was a fun and imperfect detail in the overal perfect, clean and modest mono-themed collection. Or as they called it on Instagram: Nautical simplicity with a luxury twist, which was accompanied by a backdrop and catwalk projected with waves. Who would’ve thought you could actually do walk on water? So yes, before we knew it we were checking off a sea of classic stripes, cotton maritime sweaters, the blue-white-ivory-red combinations, the rope handles on bags (their signature JBags even had ropes), gold buttons, semaphore flags, nautical symbols and sweet dolphin and seagull prints. The flared trousers, oversized sleeves, see-through details and starred tank tops added a little rock ‘n roll touch to it. Just like the soundtrack of the show ‘What Shall We Do With The Drunken Sailor’. Get on board, mate! This ship is ready for the waters. Drunk or not.

Gucci Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

Gucci’s new designer Alessandro Michele has some big shoes to fill, following up on Tom Ford’s version and Frida Giannini’s fashion eye. The heavy bearded Italian, who was appointed the new creative director of the billion-dollar Italian luxury brand at the beginning of this year, showed his third collection and took his feminine, rose-tinted ideas forward. History always looks better second or third time around, especially when you leave it to the hands of Michele. The women he sent out yesterday seem to be coming straight out of the seventies. The flared trousers and suits, bold glitter glasses, botanical embroidery crawling over, bow ties everywhere (how fun was the pineapple tie), lots of colour, the long sweepy dresses, ruffles from head to toe and what about the rick-rack trims. There was also a huge focus on fabrics: 18th Century brocades, metallic leathers, iridescent organzas, macramé and floral chiffons. All mixed and matched together. Everything was rich in detail and well thought. No room for nonchalance, modesty or primness, but enough room for romance and femininity. Underlined with many bold accessories, from dazzling bags to flower earrings and rings, dangling on arms and fingers. Some looks almost seamed like drawings on the model’s body. The collection may be quite bold or ‘naked’ for some of us, but it was full of want-it-now items.

Alberta Ferretti Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

At Alberta Ferretti the color code was, for a change, not girly nude and pink, but earthy. Sand, beige, terra cotta, mustard, tangerine, olive and ivory set the mood for a boho collection. One where suede and sheer dresses followed up on each other presented in front of a backdrop video of sand. Yet the overall feeling was light and airy, like you’d expect from Ferretti. A large part of the dresses was floor sweeping making some loose fitting outfits, like a coral red dress, a sand colored satin shirt dress, an off shoulder striped number, appear perhaps a little too shapeless. To reach a younger audience, that is. An audience whose attention Ferretti will definitely catch with this festival/safari chic presentation. Those macramé bodices, cropped lace tops, Victorian blouses, long dresses with high slits, sexy shorts will appeal to them for sure. A tangerine colored floor sweeping number seemed fit for queen Daenerys Targaryen from Game of Thrones. On trend gladiator sandals to go, but perhaps best make a choice between statement necklace and earrings. In a finale of frayed dresses four feathered pieces seemed a little heavy, although they’ll look exquisite on a red carpet somewhere. It’s no secret creating dreamlike dresses has been Ferretti’s specialty over the years. Yet today the 65 year old designer proved she’s still in touch with a more casual, youthful and free spirited side too.

Our images will follow shortly.

New York Womenswear SS2016 Trend Round-up

A fresh season has kicked off with an explosive week filled with fashion. So while you’re packing up your wellies and trenches to head over to the next fashion capital (London calling) we’d like to look back on the biggest trends from the big apple. We’ve filtered what caught our eyes from Givenchy’s most impressive show to Marc Jacobs’ One Night Only spectacle. Here’s a first look on 9 summer trends for 2016 you don´t want to miss.

 

Shiny, silky satin
As seen at Philip Lim, Alexander Wang, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta and Prabal Gurung

Suede
As seen at Philip Lim, Derek Lam and Victoria Beckham

Asymmetric
As seen at Philip Lim, DKNY and Proenza Schouler

Cropped tops (it aint over till it’s over)
Philip lim, Alexander Wang and Givenchy

Mesh (from sporty to dress-y)
Alexander Wang, Carolina Herrera, Marchesa, Proenza Schouler and Rag & Bone

Sequins
As seen at Altuzarra, Calvin Klein and Vera Wang

Loose straps
As seen at Anna Sui, Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, Lacoste and Michael Kors

Pinstripe prints
As seen at Givenchy, DKNY and Philipm Lim

Ivory slipdresses
As seen at Givenchy, Calvin Klein and Victoria Beckham

Marc Jacobs Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

“Marc Jacobs: One Night Only!” read the light box above the Ziegfeld theatre, the location of Marc Jacobs fashion show and the cinema where he, growing up in New York, saw so many movies. And oh boy, did Marc treat us to a special night out. As the stars of the evening, models acting as celebrities (even though they sometimes actually are in real life, hello Kendall Jenner) strutted the red carpet and posed in front of the Marc Jacobs photo wall we were escorted to our seats where we could watch them make their entrance. A live band played the New York Dolls’s 1973 song “Trash.” as Natalie Westling, dressed in an asymmetric raffia skirt and blue sweater, kicked off the fashion show. Clothes ranged from full on sequined and sheer party wear to sportive baseball jackets and striped sweaters. From denim on denim (as seen on Saskia de Brauw) to rock chick gone bridal (the final look). Stripes, stars, checks and prints of painted faces emphasized the theatre theme. Yet it was a bit back and forth with style, silhouette and color palette. Not to mention Marc’s selection of models was a bit out of the ordinary (hello Beth Ditto). Marcs SS2016 vision was hard to grasp in the short time frame of the show. The elegance and refinement of Marc Jacobs were still there. Yet looks were given a more playful Marc by Marc Jacobs touch. As if the designers discontinued fashion line and it’s bigger sister had merged. Presenting us with the best of both MJ worlds.

Ralph Lauren Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

Choosing a nautical theme for your SS show might not be the most refreshing or renewing thing. Yet Ralph Lauren gave his sailor chic collection just the right twist. Yes there were blue and white stripes all over, there were crispy white shirts and sailor hats, sweaters tossed over shoulders and standing collars. All ingredients any sophisticated French Riviera goer might already have in her closet for years (and years). But looks got an undated touch too. Like the cut-outs on a navy body hugging dress revealing a white cropped top underneath. Or the bright colored print on the side of a wide legged pair of trousers. Not to mention some layered white looks and a light brown leather on leather look sported by Maartje Verhoef. And then there were the wavy lines on some of the evening numbers. Elegant, feminine and fresh. The overall feel of the collection was still absolutely classic, preppy and wealthy. But just modern enough to rock the boat next summer.

Calvin Klein Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

Slip dresses are, besides those famous boxers Biebs parades in these days, perhaps the fashion piece Calvin Klein is best known for. So in yesterday’s show Francisco Costa made sure he put some focus on them. He gave the dresses, done in a porcelain palette and matched with simple trainers, a deconstructed touch, straps and fringes dangling everywhere. Making looks feel messy and giving them a certain je ne sais quoi-touch. Pieces thrown on without putting much thought to it. Like you would on The Morning After; the show’s theme. Blossom prints added an extra touch of romanticism to the story as elegant chains gave the finale of silky slip dresses even more grace. A fresh approach for Costa whose CK collections were so serene, clean and minimalistic before.

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