Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #13

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Haider Ackermann had a full house for his excellent show. The atmosphere – excitement, music and collection – caused emotional shivers. The collection was all in monochromatic gray, black and saffron yellow. Ackermann played with textures and gave his clothes a  slight toughness with the use of leather and raw fabrics, but the cutting was more confident and sexy. The new key piece is the sleeveless, vaguely military jacket in leather or suede worn with blousy, rolled shorts.

Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #12

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

In his ss 2010 collection Yohji Yamamoto showed that there are endless variations on the black jacket. He designed a version which left the shoulders and a great part of the model’s breast uncovered. There were pointing and popped collars,  zipped and unbuttoned jackets. One piece had circular cutouts, another extra long sleeves. There was a long tattered one and a trenchcoat version. Two leather examples were shown. Unfortunately the jackets were much of the same. Therefore your attention was sometimes pulled more to the hair and the make-up of the models, which looked horrific. The hair was back combed and sprayed white. The faces were white and had a square of colored eyeshadow around the eyes. Towards the end there were some designs in white with floral prints. Nice repetitive details were peaked shoulders and wide collars. Overall Yamamoto showed a safe and wearable collection. (Tess van Daelen)

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Alber Elbaz treated the audience yesterday with a a bombardment of emotional and visual pleasure. His ss2010 collection for Lanvin was an overload of color, glitter, and originality: dozens of girls marching, with a furious glamour, along a runway so long it seemed to stretch into  infinity. The collection was breathtaking technical:  drapey, pleated jumpsuits in polyester,  candy-colors like pink, salmon, peach, and vermilion, extraordinary fine leather,  a buildup of encrusted gold sequins and jewelry. There are no words to  sum up the powerful, slow-building impact of the vision Elbaz created. The man-made fabrics (al synthetic), the spirals of ruffles, the soft puffy coats, the plissees and the layering. His navy and mushroom jumpsuits are a whole new take on eveningdressing and a farewell to the official tuxedo. It had all the ingredients and inspiration women need to feel happy, confident and beautiful.

Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #11

Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #10

Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #9

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Christian Dior’s fashion show started as a film noir with a lot of smoke and the sound of screams and guns. The models had the look of a classic beauty: red lips, colorful eyeshadow and long wavy hair. The corsets seemed the key element of this collection. A lot of lingerie and some gorgeous nightgowns in orange, red, purple and pink came by. The gowns were made of shiny (often transparant)  fabrics and had sequins all over them. A real showstopper was a long ivory gown with a strapless corset. From the bottom down sequins diverged all over its fabric. An eye-catching black transparent dress had violets stitched on top of it. A lot of big bags were carried around. They looked more like briefcases and therefore contrasted with the nightwear. A very thick leather jacket with an airy dress didn’t make up for a dazzling outfit either. From all the jackets that were shown John Galliano probably wore the best one himself. His detective look was the perfect end of this film noir-inspired show. (Tess van Daelen)

Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #8

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