Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Bees. That hardworking, matriarchal society where the femaile rules was Sarah Burton’s inpiration for her Alexander McQueen collection ss2013. And because the artful shape of the honeycomb, it opened range of possibilities to create a strict and form-fitting silhouette.
Burton transported the honeycomb shape into jacquards, nets and laces, some embroidered with bees, and used all kinds of iridescent versions of honey, gold and black. She opened with wasp-waist jackets, their peplums constructed for exaggeration over bustiers; thin skirts or pants and boots made from a crystal-studded stretch of netting that ran up the leg. The focus was on the hips. As the collection went on, Burton began to undress and add, putting cages and corsets on the outside as dresses. Eventually these went undercover in eveningwear.

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

There was nothing unexpected or surprising at Valentino. Yet you can ask yourself the question if a label that produces such beautiful garments, really needs change.

In the familiar color palette of nudes, blacks and – of course – Valentino reds models worked a large series of new dresses. Slip dresses with a touch of leather, cocktail dresses done in lace, floral printed Sunday brunch dresses and puffy sleeved sheer evening dresses. Designers Chiuri and Piccioli were inspired by their city, Rome, and the work of photographer Arturo Ghergo in particular. Nothing too literal though; they mainly focused on his way of capturing a woman’s beauty.

And beautiful the Valentino woman will be… She will rock the lace items with dandelion motif. She will launch in one of the many romantic, floor length pieces. And she will head to work in her favorite jumpsuit. The embroidered lace, snake skin appliqués and beaded embroideries will make people stare. And she may not be sporty, seductive or tough; she will be gorgeous nevertheless.

Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

He did a very non sustainable thing a few seasons ago by shipping that ginormous iceberg to Paris, yet Lagerfeld is fully focused on sustainability now. At least, so it seemed at Chanel’s SS2013 show at the Grand Palais. Fake windmills and a catwalk painted with the image of solar panels formed the backdrop for the collection presentation.

Chanel’s image for spring started off with classic looks; skirt suits and strapless dresses decorated with pearls. Pearls that kept popping up throughout the entire show. A show filled with renewed loose fitting Chanel suits.

Tweed fabrics, the usual suspects at Chanel, were done in bright, almost fluorescent shades, which added a young touch to the collection. Plexi glass hats to match. Mesh, patent leather and even denim made up for some unexpected creations. A sheer CC bathing suit was given a little more ‘body’ by an enormous Chanel beach bag, which had straps as large as hula hoops.

Designs were decorated by large collars, cute windmill appliqués and floral 3D embroideries. An eastern twist was given by colorful folded origami windmills on several sheer black looks. They were followed by a few quilted pieces as a series of white dresses closed the show.

Karl once again succeeded in reviving Chanel’s archive pieces with a welcome youthful, sporty and Eastern inspired touch.

Streetfashion Womenswear SS2013 Paris Day 6

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.

Saint Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

It was not the most easy job to take the helm at a house like Saint Laurent. Hedi Slimane delivered his first collection yesterday, ans some people seemed a bit disappointed. Yes, it was edgy, it was chic and it was skinny, but it looked more like a costume parade than a new take on what Yves Saint Laurent created.  The first look was a small black jacket with skinny black pants, a white frilled shirt,  big, soft bow at the neck anda bigger-brimmed fedora. This was followed by countless variations of the same — the fabrics changing from wool to leather to glitz to pinstripes and from cotton to silk and back.  Slimane incorporated typical YSL codes to be developed in the future: tailoring, smoking, gypsy tiers, long evening-dresses, saharienne, animal spots,  demonstrative jewelry.

The clothes were good, but on the safe side: slick, sexy pants, jackets and shirts, which didn’t scream retro and gowns that women will want to wear. But Slimane needs to add more, a risky sizzle that let women crave for Saint Laurent.

First View Paris Womenswear SS2013: Drape to Go

An ode to femininity! Embracing womanhood by wrapping ladies gracefully in luxurious layers of precious draped cloth. Slouchy softness in weighty wrap blouses and full trousers. Knotted and folded décolletées, peplums and roomy ribbons. All draped and dressed up to go in layers of luxurious georgette, soft, dense satins and heavy drape silks. Smooth polished surface looks in a sober and strict palette of pearl, silver, black and white. Wrapped, draped and swagged outfits make powerful statements about femininity and sensuality. Each fold minutely controlled, to realise such perfectionism needs in-depth sculptural knowledge of the human body and supreme tailoring skills.

Céline shifts from geometric minimalism to a much softer silhouette. Maison Martin Margiela drapes carefully and restrained. More statuesque and dramatic folds at Victor & Rolf as inspired by old Hollywood. Vandervorst covers as well as reveals in a way that reminds us of the classical antiquity.

Paris shows us a series of supreme crafted styles subtly sculpted by the grand masters of shape.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Chloé Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Oversize clean looks are Clare Waight Keller’s biggest bet for 2013. They were given both sporty and elegant references like bold shapes, reflecting sleeve details and flower appliqués. Perhaps Keller took the girly-ness a little too far when she sent out a series of sweet, sheer and ruffled dresses. But at least she presented them in this season’s it-way; worn over Bermuda shorts (another hit for SS2013). Blouses with standing collars and cross over jackets added a subtle touch of Asia. In Palais de Tokyo an Chloé exhibition which covers 60 years of the brand has just opened. And this collection would have fit in just fine.

 

Giambattista Valli Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Tailored suits and pretty dresses alternated each other in the first few Valli looks. A perfect balance of strong and soft, which slowly merged with one another as the show continued. There might have been a lot of masculine influences; every look was chic and sophisticated. Jumpsuits were given small legs and shorts sleeves. Structured cropped jackets were combined with sheer tops and sexy briefs. Plus low V-necks and peplum details added an extra dose of femininity to the collection, without making it too fussy and frilly. Greys, blacks and whites got a touch of red towards the end. Gold and silver beaded creations looked chic for both Valli’s old and young clientèle. And they might put their panties on display a little too often, Valli’s women will be perfectly dressed gals next summer.

First View Paris Womenswear ss2013: Futurist Foils

All about enchantment, entertainment, fun, freedom and sexiness. This soft side of techno in synthesised sheen. Optimistic vibes that reflect from iridescent surfaces. Sheer foils and parachute veils are layered over plain, cut, as well as printed opaques. Dress-up dresses, most in simple a-shapes, are slashed and cut in graphic shimmery blocks, as well as prettily patterned in luminous florals and arty and decorative abstracts.

Looks like playful exercises, mixing and matching layers and veils to trick and puzzle the eye.

Luminous surface looks add an alienating dimension to pure iconic shapes at Christian Dior. Rue du Mail plays with items, blocks and layers of mixed materials. Dior ’s ball gown skirts in featherweight organza are shot with pearlised reflections. Where Chalayan’s translucent, intergalactic sheen adds a virtual touch to sculpted geometric minimalism.

These futuristic and surreal surface effects revibe even the most classical couture silhouette.

Stijlspot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Stella McCartney seemed in a happy mood regarding her ss2013 collection in vibrant whites, oranges and shots of green – and some black.  The colors were incorporated into an inventive lineup. In a season where sheer fabrics and layers are seen everywhere, McCartney added  layering pants — see-through pajamas under cropped trousers or long, crisp eyelets over snappy shorts. She also used structured organza for an warm-up jacket and sweatshirt. And McCartney combined sweatshirts over a dress in a key motif, superlean ribbed knits featuring big, bright ellipses on sheer plissé. On the tailored side, low-belted jackets and tuxedo-inspired day dresses looked simple and smart.

A  graphic component ran throughout, achieved with geometric layering and the recurring elliptical motif.

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