Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Having celebrated his tenth anniversary last season it was time for a new start for Alber Elbaz. He came up with a collection that was about purity and precision, yet not about control and minimalism, so he stated.

Elbaz worked on “deconstructed classicism.” He used smoking references and mixed them up with Japanese influences like kimono details and obi belts. He added a sexy dose of asymmetry, which was about the sexiest on a black bathing suit, matched with a pair of pants.

Constructed futuristic party looks full of metallic details followed. Though super modern, all the black & white made the designs appear classic. Next to his signature draping Elbaz used quite a bit of folding and of course his popular one shoulder dresses made their appearance.

A finale of several duo colored satin dresses was a cheerful closing to an all black and white show, that perhaps breathe classicism yet definitely was the beginning of something new.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Inspired by Cuba Olivier Rousteing used quite some Latin influences for his spring collection. Harlequin motifs represented it’s black and white tile floors and beautifully woven raffia dresses resembled Cuban wicker chairs. He used these influences and gave the collection as a whole a early nineties twist. Power dressing. Boxy jackets and heavily shouldered dresses made the tiny framed models indeed look powerful, yet sometimes the fit seemed a bit off.

In between the handcrafted embroidered looks a few simpler denim and leather looks popped up too. They didn’t scream as loud as some of the power designs, yet looked cool enough to be heard. With harlequin motifs, stripes, strong shoulders and some very skilled craftsman Rousteing had all the right ingredients for a success collection. Yet if he had held back just a little, the impact would probably have been bigger.

Streetwear in Milan during Fashion Week, spring summer 2013

Have a look on the streets of Milan during fashion week, spring summer 2013 season.

Models, editors, photographers and bloggers putting a spell on you…

Streetwear Milan during fashion shows Spring Summer 2013 from Team Peter Stigter on Vimeo.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Skin was the big news at Balenciaga. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière told the press before the show that its was “the most sensual collection I’ve ever done”. It was all about  stiff ruffles, movement, a-symmetric cut and technical fabrics, dense embroideries that looked like tweeds,  lace fused to molded synthetics, and T-shirt knits dipped in glue for stiffness.
Ghesquière set the tone with the first model’s midriff-baring molded bra and high-waisted pants. And from there came out swinging, slitting long black skirts almost to the hipbone and edging them with deep ruffles.  Asymmetric skirts pushed the leg-theme further, and even the pantsuits were paired with  bra tops.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.

Streetfashion Womenswear SS2013 Paris Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Gareth Pugh held strictly to his linear graphic style for his ss2013 collection, but this time it seemed softer, even more romantic than before. He even threw in scarlet red to change his palet of black, white and gray. Pugh was inspired by cockfighting, which explained the bloodred, the long hems and extended train-like sleeves. Plus the bloodred make-up. He also put in some flamenco-vibe and Japanese details.

Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

She was not attending the show herself, yet Mugler still had a touch of Gaga as her new rap song ‘Cake’ was the show’s soundtrack. Clothes didn’t feel very Gaga compared to last season’s over the top creations. This time around Nicola Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné opted for simpler pieces, yet that didn’t mean things got dull…

Structured looks followed each other on the runway. Dresses had architectural skirts and graphic shoulders. Pieces were folded, in line with the origami trend we spotted at some many other shows. And the Eastern influences continued in a kimono style gold printed top.

Gorgeous were the creations in which think patent leather and sheer organza were brought together. A burgundy dress with a layered skirt  and a mustard yellow skirt with printed top, all in patent leather, were the true showpieces.

New were the Mugler handbags, which Formichetti himself carried on to the runway as he made his appearance.

For Mugler next summer is all about picking up the trends started this season (burgundy, patent leather, eastern influences, structured shapes) and taking them to a whole new level.

 

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Dries van Noten always follows his own feeling, that makes his collections so real and honest. For ss2013 the Belgian designer mixed everything he loved – mens/womenswear, grunge and spontaneity – in a contemporary collection. He had enough of minimalism and plainness – just at the time nearly every designer is going for minimal elegance. Van Noten took basic pieces and cut them in the plaids and checks of retro street culture, pattern clashing against pattern, sometimes in the same garment. Yet lightness reigned, in both color (muted pastels that held court with earthier tones) and in the constructions of the fabrics.
Like much of the tailoring, the  decorativeness was informed by the designer’s fascination with couture. Skirts were adorned in front with appliqués of rosettes; a sweater got embroidered sleeves; organza ruffles became a wrap.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

A shimmery bra-and-brief look combined with a pair of wrestling shoes? At Rochas Marco Zanini proved he knows just how to combine quirky and chic. Dressed in beautifully tailored creations made from the finest fabrics his models appeared classy with a sporty touch.

Comfortable polo shirts with shorts and a wide legged pair of pants matched with a muscled mid rif revealing white top looked like tennis court material. Yet done in softly sparkling stretch brocade they were just a little too fancy.

Done in a gorgeous palette of whites, nudes and silver Zanini introduced over the knee pencil skirts and polo’s, slip dresses, full airy skirts and turtle necks, a maxi coat, a shirt dress and quite a few more cropped tops. He added some beach-y elegance in the shape of a chrysanthemum printed high waisted bikini, before changing into a darker mood.

A few looks in black and later in red included silk corset dresses, hoop skirts and a chic little twin set. A floor sweeping cape worn over a bikini was Zanini’s glamorous alternative to the old school pareo. Headbands worn as sun visors, with corsages at the back, round shaped sunnies, small belts one or two bags and those poppy red lips was all else this collection needed.

Rochas was chic, simple and sporty and according to Sophie Rochas the most beautiful collection of Zanini’s hand so far.

 

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