Round Up Paris/Milan Menswear SS2012

Responding to the shout out for creative design, as cited by Suzy Menkes in International Herald Tribune, we proceed like cherry pickers this season. Heading for fun and unexpected novelty we picked out the more juicy and snappy influences. Starting with the ETHNIC, here as a proven of artisanal excellence by Burberry Prorsum. Stating the omnipresence of THE DEEP BLUE, the most-favoured shade of the season (Dries van Noten). Happily shaken up by mashed up CHECKS as masterly executed by Raf Simons. Soothed by relaxed SANDBLASTED Sahara tailoring (Salvatore Ferragamo) appealing to our sense for well being. To conclude with the big bouncer, a fun feel for ECCENTRIC, with which Prada, amongst others, keeps up the spirit.

ETHNIC

Tribal pattern meets sporty elegance. Military tailoring adds detail to most minimal silhouettes. The story is mainly about pattern and finishing. Maasai warriors line up with modern day happy hippies. In warm earth and spice tones mingled with happy brights. The Burberry Prorsum collection is exemplary and celebrates its artisan roots.

 

THE DEEP BLUE

The international catwalks were flooded with deep, dense blue. Some items gleaming in wet look surfaces where others more natural and relaxed. Tension in graduated toning and shading as well as in texture where structure meets softness and natural meets high-tech. Roomy parkas and trench coats come in silks as well as nylon and sporty shorts layer long pants.

 

CHECKS

Checks serve the feel for pattern and print. From classic tartans and plaids at Gaultier, intricate kinetic patchwork at Raf Simons to slim silhouettes in black and white 60s mod checks at Gucci. Moncler Gamme Blue speeds up towards a more racy and sporty flow.

 

SANDBLASTED

Travelling south to Côte d’Azur while heading for Sahara desert. Safari and utilitarian jackets and pants with khaki as a key color. Jackets are belted and pants are wide at Salvatore Ferragamo. YSL presents some surprising placed lace-up details. Fabrics are plain and natural in pure cotton and linen looks.

 

ECCENTRIC

Think American tourists playing golf in the 50s. A touch of Hawaii and American retro with a fun dose of bad taste. Tailored, double-breasted suits mismatch with loud clashing floral printed shirts or pants. Western shirts embellished with rhinestones, recall memories of young Elvis. Prada and Kenzo spice up there ranges with funky, colourful accessories

 

 

SPORTSWEAR

The Olympics next year seem to have energised the runway shows and positioned sport at the heart of fashion. Outdoor inspiration leads to functional garments with a utilitarian foundation. Hiking, fishing, sailing and hunting as well as golf, all fuelled with a healthy dose of irony. Mesh serves as a key fabric look at both Dolce & Gabbana and Moncler Gamme Bleu.

 

FOULARD

This will become big! Celine was the one to set off with foulard prints last season, with Prada in her footsteps starring panel printed monkeys and bananas. Now time is ripe for a true 80’s Versace revival of loud head to toe decorative foulard patterns as staged by D&G. Brave, bold and baroque. It concludes in a look reminiscent of muscle boys as photographed by Bruce Weber and Herb Ritts in the 80’s.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Menswear Trend Report SS2011: Printed (All Over)

While men are mostly careful when it comes to wearing prints, there’s no reason for them to hold back anymore. The all over printed look was a huge theme on the runway and the great thing about it: you can do no wrong.

Wanna go for a all over skull print? Commes des Garcons says that’s cool! Feeling more like some bright graphic print? According to Cavalli it’s pretty hot. And if leopard (Givenchy), army (Emporio Armani), ethnic (Etro), black & white (Versace) or 3D (Jean Paul Gaultier) is more your thing, go for it!

There are no rules and no limits. Even mixing different prints together in one look is perfectly fine. But if a checked blazer (Dries van Noten) is funky enough for you than that’s alright too.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2012 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Rick Owens-shoes, your latest Givenchy-shirt or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Menswear Trend Report SS2011: Striking Stripes

Stripes are always popular in menswear and especially this season they were hard to miss. Many fashion houses sported stripes on the runway and not all in a navy (Iceberg, Junya Watanabe) kind of way.

Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Gianfranco Ferre and Galliano showed very diverse, multicolored stripy items. Whether faded, bright, horizontal or vertical; with some stripes in your outfit, you’ll sure make a striking appearance.

Check out our gallery for some inspiration.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

The Lanvin men’s collection for ss2012 continues the search for the perfect suit, jacket and shirt. With references to armywear, sportswear, formal wear and oriental dressing Lucas Ossendrijver presented a his famous casual, sensual yet dressed style. With less and less details, sometimes stripped to the fabric only. There were minimalistic raincoats, wider pants, strict jackets in shiny leather and featherlight sheer pants. The use of layers gave it all a relaxed character.

Colors were kept natural, except for a series of suits which came in red, yellow, purple and blue.

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Raf Simons’ own ss2012 collection was well balanced. A tailored black suit was the canvas on which the Belgian designer build his minimalistic vision, with roomy coats (and some tunics)  in mismatched checks or pastel-colors, sleeveless leather T-shirts, sleeveless knits with a small flower-print or shirts in contrasting black & white.

Especially the colorful checks added an upbeat character to this strict and minimal collection.

Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Kris van Assche continued to celebrate the art of tailoring at the Dior Homme-collection. The ss2012 collection looked plain & minimal but oh so luxurious.

Shirts and tapered trousers came in natural linen and were trimmed in lambskin. Trenches appeared in powdery silk taffeta. Jackets were the stars of this precise and youthful collection, from handsome double-breasted numbers to roomy shirt-like and tunic styles, often closed at the throat and flaring open. The black hats. shoes and leather wristbands were the only contrasting details.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2012 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Rick Owens-shoes, your latest Givenchy-shirt or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

What happens when you take the living soul out of a designer-collection is that the format becomes visible in every detail. And that’s what’s going on at the house of John Galliano right now.  It’s courageous of Bill Gayten to take the bow after the show, but it all looked  forced. Gone are the theatrics, but the artsy types in military jackets, David Hockney clones and rakish rockers stayed since the Swinging Sixties and Pop Art were the sources of inspiration.

All the ingredients of a Galliano-collection were there. The long jackets, funny accessories, slim suits in gray silk or crinkled white linen. The message was at the end of the show, when two mustachioed Galliano- doppelgangers took their turns. They surely do miss him.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

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