That was grunge-de-luxe what Marc Jacobs designed for Louis Vuitton. A bit ironic and provocative, but in a beautiful and sensual way. And melancholic. The set was a circular “hotel” constructed within the vast tent pitched in a Louvre courtyard. The wallpapered corridor housed 50 closed doors which the models opened and exited. The audience became voyeurs, as each “room” featured projections of hotel guests lounging and getting dressed, unaware of the scores of peering eyes.
Jacobs focused on the intimate sartorial gesture: slips, pajamas, robes de chambre. These were paired with some of the season’s best coats and jackets, worn in odd combinations — proportions deliberately awkward, colors sometimes off.
The pieces were gorgeous: a herringbone pattern made entirely of embroidered sequins; voluptuous robes lined in marabou. Some coats came in cashmere with deep borders of dégradé sequins; others, in thick silk printed to resemble English tweeds.
Of course, there were Vuitton bags – but without a logo in sight. Jacobs interpreted the house’s classic shapes in tony materials — croc, python, mink and hand-curled goose feathers — often finished with carved ebony or wooden handles.
Kim Jones’ love for nature sure was visible in his latest fall/winter collection. He opened the show with two light leapord printed jackets and the nature inspired creations kept on coming. Fur XL collars were followed by fur coats as even a burgundy sweater with the image of a snow leopard (remember last season’s big printed sweater trend?) came by. Winter coats looked super cosy, especially combined with LV’s new type of (nightcap) beanie. The checked suits and stripes coats already breathed luxury, but the finale possibly took the collection to a higher level. With satin, bathrobe style, printed, eastern inspired jackets for those real special occasions.
Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.
Next year is the 30th anniversary of the Louis Vuitton Cup, prelude to the America’s Cup, so it was no surprise Kim Jones took LV to sea in his third season as Men’s Style Director for the house. He added sport to LV’s two totems, travel and luxury.
There were chic options for all the crew aboard: handsome double-breasted navy suits, rugged and colorful foul-weather gear and artfully frayed and decaying denim shorts and jackets.
All aboard for the 10 o’clock LV train!
If you thought a Louis Vuitton show couldn’t get better after last seasons merry go round, you’re mistaken. This morning Marc Jacobs topped that performance off by sending out an enormous train on his Paris catwalk. By doing so he made sure – combined with yesterday’s Chanel crystals– Paris Fashion Week (and actually a whole fashion season) ended quite spectacular.
Jacobs even stepped away from his no celebs policy and invited stars like Catherine Deneuve and Sarah Jessica Parker to watch his show, held in a train station.
As the smoke of the train dissapeared elegant women accompanied by porters who carried their many bags stepped out of the Louis Vuitton train, which seemed to come straight from another era. They wore woolen a-line coats over skirts, over pants. The new type or layering already presented to us at Chanel yesterday. They looked extremely tall (thanks to a little help from Stephen Jones). The new silhouette made them look extra feminine. And shiny embroideries combined with kaleidoscopic applications turned otherwise simple outfits into jaw dropping pieces.
It was not the most modern collection, but it had the right kind of classic touch for todays Louis Vuitton women. And just in case after this show you haven’t had enough yet of the French fashion brand you can visit the exhibition Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs (opening tonight) and dig a little further into the Louis Vuitton history.
Please enjoy our pictures. Our review will follow shortly..
A carousel with 48 horses filled the Louis Vuitton stage on the last day of Paris fashion week. On each horse was a model, including miss Kate Moss, who apparently asked Marc Jacobs if she could be part of the show herself.
All girls were dressed in super sweet pastel colored looks with lace details. They looked girly and ladylike at the same time, combining cute white colors with parts of sheerness.
Skirts were right at knee-length, (crocodile leather) jackets and (fully buttoned) blouses all had 7/8 sleeves. Every lace flower, appliquéd rosette, button and zipper was perfection. Silver colored shoes, tiara’s and lace umbrella’s seemed like the perfect touch to Jacobs’ sun kissed looks.
The rumor on Jacobs leaving Vuitton for was Dior not be discussed and the show didn’t indicate anything in any direction either. So rumors can continue on, it just would be a damn shame if we would have to miss out on these kind of fairytale-like shows.
Expectations were high, now Kim Jones has taken over at Louis Vuitton menswear. But until now the shift didn’t bring any news. Where Paul Helbers tried to bring something new, edgy and different into the collection, Jones brought his vision on classics with a twist. But we’ve seen that before. The result was handsome, sure-handed and vivid, but also played safe. A bit seventies and sixties, Ivy League and preppy sportswear and that meant crisp college looks, ranger and safari clothes, massai checks and midnight blue dinner suits. For the hyper luxury clientele Kim Jones offers varsity jackets fronted with waxed alligator, and neckties shot with 24-karat gold thread.
But the bags were the message. And the shoes… well the shoes. Let’s not spend a word on those.
Well, that was quite a show at Louis Vuitton this morning. Marc Jacobs was in the mood for some strong mistresses. The inspiration seem to come from the movie Night Porter. But according to Marc Jacobs explanation the inspiration came form the obsession people have for Loui Vuitton-bags etc. “The definition is an unreasonable obsession with objects or things. Which is sometimes Vuitton bags” he told WWD.
So it was extravagance to the max, with an 18-karat gold handbag cuffed to a girl’s wrist. There was a retro, hotel-inspired elevator bank that rose from the floor below and were the models started out. Almost everyone carried bags, not all in gold, but in python, harlequin-cut shearling, embroidered monogram rubber.
Python came lacquered; fake fur, waxed; guipure lace, made to look like plastic. There was lots of see through, and also rubberized, plasticized and waxed fabrics with police-hats, silk-stockings, jodhpurs. But also more wearable clothes like tweed coats and jackets taken from men’s classics which were reshaped into hourglasses and sleek sweaters.