Bees. That hardworking, matriarchal society where the femaile rules was Sarah Burton’s inpiration for her Alexander McQueen collection ss2013. And because the artful shape of the honeycomb, it opened range of possibilities to create a strict and form-fitting silhouette.
Burton transported the honeycomb shape into jacquards, nets and laces, some embroidered with bees, and used all kinds of iridescent versions of honey, gold and black. She opened with wasp-waist jackets, their peplums constructed for exaggeration over bustiers; thin skirts or pants and boots made from a crystal-studded stretch of netting that ran up the leg. The focus was on the hips. As the collection went on, Burton began to undress and add, putting cages and corsets on the outside as dresses. Eventually these went undercover in eveningwear.
Futurism with softness, looking forward in a positive way. That was what designer Sarah Burton had in mind by creating her fall collection for Alexander McQueen. Burton presented it in a collection that was about lightness wit a core of power: futuristic princesses in “exploded” silhouettes in pristine white or enormous froths of pink feathers, their faces behind sleek visors. This was a story like only the McQueen house can tell and present, it left the commercial collection in the showroom. But that collection will for sure have connections with the show-pieces – same colors, same perfection and elegance.
Although Sarah Burton wanted to celebrate femininity and womanhood with her collection for Alexander McQueen it also brought a strong fetishistic vibe to life. That was because of the strong curbes and (beautifully made) masks. It was pretty and sometimes romanticwith hint of lingerie. There was just one silhouette: a small bodice, tiny waist, tight skirt flounced or godeted at the hem for flirtatious walking.
You need a true British designer to add some rock ‘n roll to the Milan menswear Fashion Week. After days of decent suits, sportswear and pale colors, the Alexander McQueen-collection brought wit, romance and the expressionism of Mick Jagger and David Bowie to the catwalk, although it lacked a bit of McQueens’ own provocative and edgy elements. There were Savile Row jackets in bold black & white checks or peacock shades, as well as the loose trousers in candy red & white stripes or hammered satin. Burton also presented varsity-style jackets in leather and suede, a flame-print evening jacket and a white coat with bold red spray-effect bands.
The Alexander McQueen-collection was an ode to The Ice Queen and her Court. Sarah Burton – who’s talent and character keeps the McQueen-house alive and kicking – gave her heroines a colorless faces and small, metal-covered heads. She build the collection slowly, using white, black and lilac and a very McQueen silhouette. It was molded, strong, and sometimes fitted like a harness. To avoid a too tough and edgy impression Burton tempered it wit hand-made silk and wool tweeds with litlle pieces of mink and fox.
Other beautiful fabrics were checked and studded velvets and organza, and really stunning were two dresses with body’s made entirely from mosaics of broken bone china plates. The evening gowns were just breathtaking.
Nick Knight’s latest fashion film (see below) is a tribute to designer Alexander McQueen. It celebrates his breathtaking imagination and his groundbreaking creations. Singer Björk sang the exclusive soundtrack of the film. During the British Fashion Awards, where McQueen received a posthumous award, the film was shown for the first time.
On Tuesday evening 7 December the British Fashion Awards will be presented in London. Today one of the winning designers was already announced. Alexander McQueen will receive a posthumous award (The Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design prize) for his contribution to fashion. During the evening this will be celebrated by a film, directed by Nick Knight, featuring McQueen’s most iconic pieces.
‘This film is my way of speaking about a very unique and important person who changed my life. My desire was to speak in some way about the dark and the light contained within Lee, and within us all,’ Nick Knight told Vogue.
‘The Outstanding Achievement Award celebrates the exceptional talent of an individual who has contributed to the British fashion industry, both internationally and here in the UK, throughout their career. There was only one person we felt we could recognize with this award this year – Lee McQueen’, Harold Tillman, Chairman of the British Fashion Council, explained to Vogue.
During his career Alexander McQueen was awarded the Designer of the Year prize at the British Fashion Awards four times. In the past years The Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design award was already won by fashion heroes like Stephen Jones, John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood.
It was the first McQueen collection former assistant Sarah Burton had made on her own and she did a great job.
She presented a collection inspired by Mother Earth that was slightly lighter than we are used to from McQueen himself. Burton showed baroque-details, golden embroideries, high collars and pointy shoulders
Colorful prints in orange and ochre were combined with black and white. There were lots of sheer designs and many creations had nature influences, like leafs, feathers, peacock feathers and wheat.
The hair of the models was done in a special way; it was braided like a woven basket and looked stunning.
After the show everyone was enthusiastic, even the photographers thought it was a perfect McQueen show. So, job wel done Burton, McQueen would be proud.
I wasn’t there personally, but I just wanted to show you some pictures of the new menswear-collection of Alexander McQueen. It seemed unthinkable that the label could do without the founder, McQueen – who died four months ago -, but his righthand Sarah Burton took over. She is the one who knew the best how he thought and worked.
It was a low key presentation of a subtle reworking of the house aestetic. Cut away jackets, a red and gold brocate coat, deconstructed redingotes, cashmere sweaters and striped pants. Burton played a subtle game between high and working class.