The tartan has proven to be the most versatile print of the season. It popped up on menswear inspired attires at Dolce & Gabbana, we saw different grunge versions appear at Saint Laurent and we got a more feminine/minimalistic vibe at Céline.
Yet many, many more designers interpreted the Scottish tartan in different ways, making the old school kilt fabric a true fall musthave.
Whether your sporting the check on an oversize shopping bag, a woolen winter coat or a skater or midi skirt; you can’t go wrong with this one.
Not the type to go for that typical statement, oversize, red and black (Terry Richardson) shirt? The color options are endless, though the light pink and blue tartan pieces seem to get the highest rate from the industry’s insiders.
And if one tartan creation isn’t enough; try mixing multiple checked items in one look, as seen at Céline and Stella McCartney. Get your tartan!
Giorgio Armani sent out an airy, light and almost fluid collection today.
He opened with beige toned separates — jackets, skirts, culottes — that moved gracefully with, and sometimes against, the body. The layering of textures and subtle patterns — tweeds, ottomans, soft florals — was interesting and in seductive tonal combinations.
Armani introduced color as he moved from sportswear to a more dressier part. Here, he focused on soothing blues and purples with shots of cialis 20mg pink. A floral-on-gray jacket and shell made for a distinctive twinset over a silk skirt. A pair of evening dresses — little strapless nothings that fell loose from elasticized ruffles — twinkled.
Emerald, deep purple, navy blue and cognac might not feel like your typical summer color palette, but Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi sure made it work. Sticking to their Italian craftsmanship the designers sent out a wide variation of it-looks for SS2014. Their graphic looks captured both the cropped top, the vivid prints, the over the knee skirts, the structured tops, the focus viagra canada on the waist as well as the shiny silk trend. And even though other designers might have picked up on those trends too, the collection still looked fresh and unique. Thanks to the designers’ couture-like details, their original Paul Gauguin painting prints and their cape-like tops (one in navy and a striped one, both tied at the front, which were not necessarily the hit pieces of the show). No heavy accessories needed here; those flat strappy sandals and waist belts did the job.
A light catwalk, serene pale models and a collection mostly made in shades of white and silver. Cavalli’s angels seemed to have all walked out of the same silver shower, but still there were more than enough variations in the designer’s summer looks. Like sheer snake printed pants, airy reptile dresses, floor sweeping gowns, loose printed pants with matching jackets and XL caftans.
Also, this time the designer didn’t just stick to his signature animal print as a statement on his creations. He used about every possible technique for his selection of garments, often even mixing and matching those into one design.
So his pieces were embroidered, studded, fringed, beaded and layered all at once. Often combining sheer and lace parts online canada pharmacy viagra with slightly (just slightly) heavier fabrics. If Cavalli would have released this collection one year earlier 50% of his looks could have easily ended up on the bodies of the extras in over the top styled remake of The Great Gatsby. ‘Cause one things for certain: those extravagant heavy accessorised pieces belong to a wild night of partying and are meant to shine!
For his ss2014-collection Mattijs van Bergen tried to find a more simple silhouette and a new clear design. It is his answer to the spirit of today, which asks for more creative freedom and optimism. Japanese silhouettes and the clear style of Bauhaus inspired him. Origami, kimono-styles and graphic prints define the silhouette of his collection. The result is a collection in soft, romantic colors that remind of cherry-blossom or more harsh colors in rich materials.
Sometimes fabrics clash as do prints and colors. All in all this was an interesting collection of Mattijs which showed his sensible eye and love for fabric and form.
The theme of Ralph Lauren’s spring collection was Mod, with Sixties A-line shift-dresses in black, patent leather Mary Janes and knee socks. Almost all the looks came in black and white, from a three-piece pantsuit to a floral patent trench-coat. There were a few of the designer’s signature elegant pantsuits, but the black-and-white looks became repetitive fast. When color did finally enter the picture, it was bright—lime green, acid yellow, neon orange for long dresses.
This trend is the fastest way to chic ‘as whispered by the league of stylewriters’. Since New York means business, another range of easy wearables for us to Spot! Exercises in modern minimalism show clothes both sharply tailored and deconstructed. Ultra-chic black and white suits, sharply tailored jackets and relaxed trousers that can be worn day-to night. Crisp plains as well as bold artistic patterning – wild linear brushstrokes and scribbles, cut up checks and stripes, bold blockings and some very smart and arty engineered optical patterns and panel prints.
Slouchy looks in loose trousers and floppy, sleeveless tops make sleek sophisticated outfits for the downtown crowd and ‘90s obsessed.
A two-tone multifaceted trend. Marc by Marc Jacobs connects to this ‘90s crowd with his baggy silhouettes and arty patterning. Robert Rodriguez goes for a prim, sexy silhouette as sharp as his pointed shoes. Rag & Bone drops waists and décolletées with sensual nonchalance. Where the Mulleavy sisters push Rodarte off the beaten tracks with some crafty tailoring and pretty playful details.
The great thing about black & white is that it fuses and joins almost any look in a magical way…
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam
After all that minimalism during New York Fashion Week came Marc Jacobs with a collection that threw the audience back to 1890s. Marc Jacobs explained his collection as being in a sort of nightmare. No beautiful light whispering summerclothes, but a mix of Victorian influences, menswear and Birkenstock: dark, dangerous and compelling. Jacobs’ clothes were printed, appliquéd, embroidered, and tasseled. And dark. There were large hibiscus prints in red and white on a coat and maroon and white on a shirt and shorts set, but black, navy, bottle green, and brown were the dominant colors here.
The overall look was opulent, the day clothes either riffs on old, elegant officers’ jackets worn over re-fabricated surf shorts or loose-cut dresses and sweatshirts in thick velours. Evening presented a mesmerizing parade of slightly deranged-looking Victorian heroines in mourning — their darkness highlighted by intricate embroideries.
Francisco Costa celebrated his 10th anniversary designing for Calvin Klein with a powerful,sensible collection. The strength came in the architectural shapes, the masterful fabric manipulation, a dose of streety chic and even some unexpected details that were anything but minimalist.
The designers started with complex cuts and draping, some with exposed folds in contrast colors, like the slices of orange on a beige double-face canvas jacket and skirt. He also focused on the waist, often with wide bands placed strategically below the torso, most notably on slouchy, denimlike pants that touched the floor.
Joseph Altuzarra comments on his Spring 2014 collection –‘ I wanted something that felt easy, something that women would want to wear in summer’. No reason to complicate things where the matter is as straightforward as this. Let’s make pretty clothes to please the girls. From tailored retro sportswear in impeccable neoprene’s, to diaphanous slip dresses layering translucence over opaque. Modern remakes of classic suits, pretty frocks, elegant dresses in sun kissed pales as icy aquas, cool mints and fresh breezy corals and pinks. Ravishing prettiness, without becoming too sweet, all minutely tailored, pristine, smart and silken.
DKNY showed pastel-hued tailoring, pretty parkas, lean bodysuits and racy track pants. Easy pieces in pleasing pastels. Prabal Gurung hailed the muse of fifties sweetness – Marilyn Monroe. He celebrates the elegant women, whom he thinks is endangered. Alexander Wang proves fashion to be entertainment and Altuzarra displays gracefulness, subtlety, restraint and quietness.
As Prabal Gurung proclaims – ‘This is about the preservation of elegance’.
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam