Just click through the Dries van Noten, Prada and Gucci catwalk images and you know brocade is in style. The richer the materials the better the look. Minimalism couldn’t be further away. The more ornate the better. All that glitters are coats (Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Prada), sequined tops (Dries van Noten) and embroidered velvet dresses (Roberto Cavalli). Once worn to convey social status in places like Byzantium, China, and Italy, this fall you’re wearing these luxurious pieces to convey your sense of style! Downdress your brocade look with some denim and a crispy white Tee to add some street chic appeal. Or just follow Gucci’s example and go all the way with some expensive oversize square-frame rhinestone sunglasses, a turban and fur sleeves.
Last night Sonia Rykiel passed away. The Parisian designer famous for her colourful knitwear designs died at the age of 86. Ever since 1995 she suffered from Parkinson’s disease, something she revealed in 2012 when she stepped down as creative director of her eponymous label.
Born and raised in Paris Rykiel started her career in fashion in 1948 as a storefront designer, but eventually launched her own collections of self knitted clothing. In 1968 she opened her first store on Rue de Grenelle; the beginning of an international fashion house.
Sonia Rykiel is remembered by many as a fashion pioneer. Along with Chloé, her label pioneered the créateur movement in France. She became famous for her loose fitting sweaters, breaking sixties fashion rules of corsets and bras. Fashion should be comfortable and fun, was the flame-haired designer’s message and Brigitte Bardot, Catherine Deneuve and Audrey Hepburn, just a few of Sonia Rykiel’s famous clients, agreed.
“Design job fell on me. I didn’t want to do it. It was an accident. For the first 10 years I said, “Tomorrow I’m stopping.””
Through the years the brand Sonia Rykiel expanded with clothes for men, kids, accessories and fragrances. Rainbow stripes, massive fur wraps and culottes became part of the brand’s signature. In 2009 the label collaborated with H&M. That same year she was awarded The Order of Légion d’Honneur in recognition of her 40 years of service in the French fashion industry.
In 2012 Nathalie Rykiel, Sonia’s daughter, took over the role of the brand’s creative director while Sonia still kept serving as honorary president and attending the label’s shows, which always ended in a big celebration on the catwalk (see some catwalk highlights in our gallery below). Since 2014 Julie de Libran has been Sonia Rykiel’s artistic director.
Sonia Rykiel, 1930 – 2016
After that impressive Acne shearling coat from last year had every it-girl craving for shearling is a big trend this fall. From Balenciaga to Sacai; the big brands are introducing their sheepskin ideas for the new season. From black sheep to trend setter; the new shearling jackets are adding instant coolness to your look. And oversized (hello Marc Jacobs) with XL collars they’ll keep be the ultimate shelter to any winter storm. Whether worn with mesh tights (Burberry), bare legs (Margiela) or a bright red pleated skirt (Balenciage); there’s no denying it’s coolness. We put biker jackets with a shearling lining on top of our wishlist. Biker sheep.. eh chic. Will you become that wolf in sheep’s clothing too?
Remember last year’s bright colored fur trend? Well, for upcoming fall you can hang on to those extravagant coats. Colored fur isn’t going anywhere (just look at the fur coats Fendi, Ferragamo and Ferretti sent out). The trend did get a subtle update as large fur coats in just one statement color are having a moment too. Preferably in shades of blue and green, like thise ones Blumarine, Burberry, Rochas and Chloé suggested. But cobalt blue or bright pink will do the trick too. For those trend setters looking to overdo it Moschino released an full on leopard printed fur coat. Fur capes are the way to go according to Prada and Roberto Cavalli. And if that’s all a bit too much for you Christopher Kane and Alexander Wang opted for a natural color palette. No matter your winter outfit, just toss on a fur coat and you’re bound to make heads turn. Effortless chic and highly hugable.
Velvet is out of it’s dark, Gothic corner for good. Thanks to Valentino (yellow) , Vetements (gold), Alberta Ferretti (pink) and Dries van Noten (purple) we now all know how highly desirable colored velvet can be. And as the high street stores are filling up with velvet pieces we have a feeling this luxurious fabric might become one of this season’s biggest trend. How could it not when every major brand has presented some velvet on it’s runway. One by one outfits begging to be touched. Remember that all green Haider Ackermann suit? Or that leopard printed red Etro dress? Not to mention the Prada and Fendi dresses with patches and embroideries. Oh and let’s not forget that jaw dropping navy blue, one shoulder dress Ralph Lauren sent out. So many style options there’s a velvet match for everyone. Whether you’re opting for suits (Ferretti, Lanvin, Ackermann), dresses (Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Dries van Noten) or jackets and coats (Ralph Lauren, Vetements). Your everyday fall outfit is finally getting the royal touch it deserves.
Weather it’s a hipster or a floor sweeping gown; black lace seems to be popping up in just about every woman’s closet. And truly, there hasn’t been a year of fashion without black lace being a trending topic on the runways. The same goes for fw2016; black lace is having a moment again. Yet, as fashion evolves, this fabric too got a style update. This fall it’s all about dressing up in black lace as designers like Roberto Cavalli and Balmain are introducing some of the most artful, delicate yet dramatic lace evening dresses. Floor sweeping (Gucci, Alberta Ferretti) and highly decorated. With cut-outs (Roberto Cavalli) and asymmetric sheer panels (Valentino). Given touches tulle (Roberto Cavalli) and shiny ruffled satin (Balmain). With extra long loose sleeves (Roberto Cavalli, McQueen). Serpents (Gucci) and flowers (Rodarte) adding some dark/romantic touches. Black lace should no longer be hidden as sexy lingerie, it deserves a spot in our festive wardrobe section. To be worn on extravagant nights that require a fashion statement to be made, both dark and seductive.
It’s 2016 and in that sense anything goes for our dear men. And in the category of gender-fluid trends, there’s one trend having a huge moment: pink! We’re talking any kind of hue: coral, salmon, rosé, fuchsia or pink panter-ish. Pink has a controversial background and history in menswear, and for long time it has been a huge sartorial no-no, considered a colour for only women, queers or Oxford men. But thanks to icons like Sonny Crockett (Miami Vice) and John Draper (Mad Men), pink is becoming more of a new neutral tone, like white. Even the manliest man figures on this planet can pull it off big time (looking at you Drizzy Drake and Cristiano Ronaldo) .
Perhaps it started with the Adidas Stan Smith collaboration in baby pink, and we noticed many pink pastel tones in previous catwalk seasons. And when colour authority Pantone named rose quartz as THE colour of the year, there’s no question about why you should be wearing pink this year. Only HOW you gonna wear it. Especially if you look at the many catwalk examples: Kenzo, Etro, Ferragamo, Westwood, Gucci, Versace and many more. They all have their own spin on this bright and cheerful colour. Even as a bomber jacket (check Givenchy) is pretty darn cool, don’t you think? And a trend rarely makes its way so quickly and directly to the high-street stores. Now there’s pink everywhere, cheering up the streets. Before you get to excited (and you have the right to be so) and jump on it, this is how to nail it without looking like you robbed your little sisters wardrobe: keep it simple and classy, team up with darker ‘masculine’ colours and avoid sparkly embroideries.
We hate to say this but: the end of summer is not so far ahead anymore. And as much as we like to postpone the colder and darker days and lengthen those endless summer nights, there’s also much to look forward too: like a new winter wardrobe. So coming weeks it’s time to have look at the menswear agenda for the season to come. And you better be ready, because there’s lots of new and exciting things to come and to fill your wardrobe with. Just follow our lead…
The designers have a new trend on their creative hands: metallics. And with the Olympics in Rio it shouldn’t be too surprising that a group of designers is going for the gold. Metallics are making a comeback once again, and the results are nothing but f-f-flashy (for all our Dutchies: this song is your best compagnon). Not all men will feel excited when thinking of metallic coats, a pair of metallic trousers or shiny bomber jackets, but high fashion labels like Donatella Versace, Calvin Klein, and Emporio Armani showed that a bit of shine doesn’t mean lack of masculinity. At all. They featured a range of metallic tones such as silver, gold and even shiny blue in a very cool and manly way. The reflective materials add an fresh and futuristic touch to every day and night wardrobe.
This may not be the most easy trend for men (not even for women!) to adapt and it can quickly feel a little over the top, but you can definitely make it work. To make sure you won’t get the peacock effect (yep, there’s a high risk), balance is key to pulling off this look. Metallics do best when they complement your outfit and not being the main essential. So start of slowly, by wearing accessories or flashy shoes, and easily make your way up to the trousers or tops. And try to match the metallic tones to other colours in your outfit. Now, that’s what we call a winners look.
Stripes, you can bet your bottom dollar that it will pop up between the spring summer trends sooner or later. How many trend reports we’ve written on stripes the past couple of years… This season is no exception; the stripe is widely represented at some of the biggest international brands. Dolce & Gabbana introduced multiple bright colored versions of the broad stripe on their skirts and dresses. Prada introduced countless variations of the striped skirt suit. At Missoni the airy, colored knitwear pieces had stripes all over. As Alexander Wang focused on monochrome sporty stripes. Tommy Hilfiger, Stella McCartney, Max Mara and House of Holland joined in on the fun. While we’re stacking up on anything bright and striped. Horizontal, vertical, on airy knits, floaty silks, for night, for day, to work, to the beach. And if you can’t figure it out; just opt for a Breton sweater and some destroyed denim and you’re dressed both classic and on trend.