It might not be the most flattering of all fabrics, yet that hasn’t stopped satin from becoming one of the biggest fall/winter trends. The soft & shiny fabric appeared at plenty of catwalk shows, from Anderson to Westwood. From tough and tomboyish at Louis Vuitton to girly and costum-y at Gucci. If PJ’s and party dresses are your thing, best make sure you opt for some satin ones. And when it comes to the styling part two rules apply. 1. Don’t wear your satin too tight. 2. Some shapewear will help. Now the hardest thing is to get through the day without your outfit getting completely wrinkled or worse, torn. Satin is delicate and should be treated that way. No wonder it has always been more of a bedroom fabric. No rough partying then eh? Oh well, you can always decide to sleep in that pastel shaded Lanvin dress.
MOAM is back for her third edition, MOAM 3.0. After two successful editions in EYE and Rijksmuseum, MOAM collective started with a new group of five designers. These talented designers have all graduated from different academies and worked together on one collection. This collective has been coached by iconic names from the fashion industry.
In this third edition of MOAM collective, MOAM has given a platform to Christiaan de Vries (AMFI), Elysanne Schuurman (HKU), Olivier Jehee (KABK), Maartje Janse (ArtEZ) and Nikki Duijst (KABK). They were weekly coached by three pioneers from the fashion industry: Frans Ankoné, Mariette Hoitink and Peter Leferink. Next to them this edition was also coached by Claes Iversen, Dieter de Cock, Fiona Hering, Iris Ruisch, Jan Jansen, Jan Taminiau, Maison the Faux, Mart Visser, Pauline van Dongen, Ronald van der Kemp and Saskia Stoeckler.
In six months time this collective has worked closely together on a collection consisting of 25 looks for men and women. The designers received complete creative freedom and where responsible from first sketch to final catwalk show. In this process they where coached by professionals from the Dutch creative industry. The keystones for this process are talent development and passing knowledge from the current generation on to the new.
Hotelier and old clothing tailor Krasnapolsky invited this new generation of MOAM designers to host the catwalk show in de renewed ‘Wintertuinen’. This location fits this years design concept perfectly. With overlapping traits like; heritage, innovation and typical Amsterdam elements this was a collaboration made in heaven.
As soon as the kids go back to school glittery fashion re-enters the stores. With all winter festivities coming up we can focus on glittery outfits and sparkly accessories again. And even though sparkling clothing is never a surprise for fall/winter this year around all that glitters is slightly different from last year. A highly glittery metallic fabric has popped up in many designers collections. Lurex love all around. Whether you’re off to a good night of disco dancing or presenting your company’s annual report; lurex is bound to give you that extra dazzling sparkle. It lit up the catwalks of Pucci, Costume Nationale, Dolce & Gabbana and Vionnet. And not just in the typical black, silver, gold palette. The models at Missoni and Jil Sander looked mesmerizing in their pastel shaded lurex. As Balenciaga and Isabel Marant opted for bright blue and red. Glam it up for the new season. Let’s lurex.
Ever since Alessandro Michele re-introduced the pleated skirt it’s been gaining popularity. And not just the skirt made a huge comeback, pleats are having a major moment in more varieties. On a shiny metallic red Ralph Lauren dress for instance. Or as attached to a Salvatore Ferragamo skirt, as a nice bright colored detail. Oh and let’s not leave aside how much elegance and glamour those pleats added to that chocolate colored Valentino dress. Was the pleated skirt ever solely worn as a school uniform (kinda boring), for autumn it fits in with just about any girls wardrobe. Have you seen Bottega Veneta, Diesel, Givenchy and Fendi’s interpretations? Accordion style. Let’s play around with pleats.
We’re slowly getting back to our daily routine, picking up our ordinary fashion jobs. Far away from the cities that sequentially sizzled with fashion for a good uninterrupted four weeks. And while the rhythm of fashion week is slowly leaving our system we look back one more time at what Paris Fashion Week had to offer us. Practical wear and oversized suiting (Céline) definitely formed a SS2017 PFW theme. As did sheer, seductive and rather tacky styles (Lanvin, Chanel). A direct contrast. Like in Milan and New York pink and yellow turned out to influence a big part of the designer’s color scheme as retro prints (Givenchy) and polka dots re-appeared. As far as shapes and silhouettes concerned; loose and boxy is the way to go. And you either opt for strong statement (eighties) shoulders or just the one shoulder (Vetements). When it comes to accessories a super chunky earring (Saint Laurent) can make the difference. Heels are getting higher and bags even smaller (Valentino). Lots to love and to look forward to. Here are 6 trends from Paris to you.
Oui oui, c’est fini. Miuccia Prada ended a fashion filled month on the happiest note. Sixties style complete with swimwear looks to rock a long summer in Portofino (or any other Italian city by the see). Bright colored, busy printed and fantasy full looks followed each other on the Miu Miu runway. As if those swim caps (and some matching bags) weren’t cheerful enough. Tea dresses were a theme as well as some of the robe-like fur coats in a multicolored palette, that seemed rather hot. Oh well, underneath them models were sporting high waisted bikini shorts, bodices with floral appliques and flip flops. Retro chic with just a touch of modernity. Something to look forward to while autumn has officially arrived and our winter coats can finally have their streetwear moment. Winter is coming, but a joyful summer is just around the corner.
Our final day of Paris fashion week started at the second floor of a Place Vendôme venue that is soon to be a Louis Vuitton flagship store. Light and spacious. A fine fit with Nicolas Ghesquière fresh and upbeat collection. A dressed up collection with a twist. After the deconstructed white shirt (that is now everywhere) Ghesquière introduced the deconstructed suit with cut outs and removed slices. Highly unpractical yet just as admirable. Plus the suits worked perfectly with the rest of the rather revealing looks. Like a number of sheer floor sweeping dresses through which both the models lingerie and shoulder pads were visible. As in many of the previous shows shoulders were a big focus point at Louis Vuitton. As were the skinny pants And those ankle booties really worked with every single look. Together with LV’s luxury phone case they might be LV’s little money makers for next season. And there might already be some eager DIY-ers cutting up their grey suit jackets as we speak.
Starting off with cool camoflauge prints and little safari co-ords Kenzo’s SS2017 line up soon evolved into more funky dresscodes. Like a patent leather skirt worn with a ruffled blouse and a metallic top. Or a skirt and oversized Tee both which had images of Kenzo back in the (Studio 54, just check out this clip) days printed on them. Yet the best chapter of the show started with a parade of shiny disco dresses full of beads and sequins. Studio 54 dressing on fleek. If only we’d still be able to relive some of those marvellous disco dancing nights. But will surely find other occasion to wear that pink dress with handwritten prints and sparkling top to. It deserves a place in the spotlights that’s for sure. Same goes for those chunky earpieces…wow! Carol Lim and Humberto Leon sure found a way to overcome the H&M hype (their collaboration collection is hitting stores next month). This collection of 54 looks will have both fashion critics and Kenzo customers going wild (like Jerry Hall and Pat Cleveland on that stage).
Ever wondered what goes on behind the scenes at Chanel? Yes, of course there’s a workspace filled with dedicated seamstresses, we saw so in the Signé Chanel documentary. But did you know that behind this there’s another layer? It’s the digital headquarters of Chanel. Silicon valley does fashion. Today Karl Lagerfeld gave a glimpse inside this technologic Walhalla where system operator dress in the cutest tweed suits and colourful wires make up for the perfect backdrop. Two Chanel robots opened the show filled with cool kids. Models wearing disco colored ensembles, their caps sideways, medallion necklaces and one statement earring in. Lace underwear details on display. An eighties vibe with an intimate touch. That’s some computer system we’d love to hack into.
What better way to start off your SS2017 collection presentation than with a dance off? Stella McCartney did just that and let her models whoop, holler and shimmy all over her runway. Refreshing and the ultimate proof that McCartney’s clothes are made to actually move in. Roomy pants, crispy oversized shirts and loose printed T-shirts. Continuing some Milan Fashion week trends the belt bag and raincoat/parka added to McCartney’s focus on practical fashion. Outer space sunglasses, chunky earrings and a handful of necklaces kept the fresh faced models cool. Blankets tossed around their shoulders. And though everything seemed super comfy and wearable, those heels – Stella McCartney paired with a chic all black ensemble – appeared rather wobbly. Yet she did do an excellent dressing job with her husband Alasdhair Willis, who was rocking a slick double-breasted jacket and trousers from her upcoming menswear collection while sitting front row.