Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Junya Watanabe presented an elegant, sober and tough-chic collection focused at silhouette, leathers and fabric. At a haunting soundtrack and accompanying reading of Arthur Rimbaud’s ‘Ophelia’ this collection became more than a biker-tour.

The leather proofed to be the perfect material for an exercise in construction and couture shapes, some sets reminded of .Dior New Look 1947 or boxy Balenciaga-esque styles. It made an mix of  soft-meets-hard. From the front, many of the looks came completely structured and molded, while from behind, they were cut loose.
After the rigid black leather, paired with  stiff pleated schoolgirl-skirts, Watanabe introduced knits and easy LBD’s  in generous and sometimes slouchy silhouettes. Even the leathers were treated as fabric in wrap dresses.

First View Paris FW2011: Surface & Proportion

Paris opens with an almost academic exercise in shape and proportions. Supersize knits in chunky ribbons of faux leather by Balenciaga in contrast with rococo prints on fluid crepe de chine. Miyake shows giant hounds tooth on models wrapped in outsized origami.

Dries van Noten works in clashing king-size graphics reminiscent of Russian constructivism. Pugh and Owens go monumental, composing leather into architectonic and iconic works of art.

But this is not just about the grand gesture. The surprise is in the detail; crafted tailoring, precious surface effects, appliquéd and gilded aspects, embossed and hand coloured leather and ribbon weaves.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

At the sound of a slow heartbeat and Leonard Cohen’s poem A thousand kisses deep Haider Ackermann presented his romantic, serene collection. It lend to an outburst of emotion at the audience. The designer received a long and weldeserved applause. Some tears were falling down.

Don’t matter if the road is long
Don’t matter if it’s steep
Don’t matter if the moon is gone
And the darkness is complete
Don’t matter if we lose our way
It’s written that we’ll meet
At least, that’s what I heard you say
A thousand kisses deep

I loved you when you opened
Like a lily to the heat
You see, I’m just another snowman
Standing in the rain and sleet
Who loved you with his frozen love
His second hand physique
With all he is and all he was
A thousand kisses deep

I know you had to lie to me
I know you had to cheat
You learned it on your father’s knee
And at your mother’s feet
But did you have to fight your way
Across the burning street
When all our vital interests lay
A thousand kisses deep

I’m turning tricks
I’m getting fixed
I’m back on boogie street
I’d like to quit the business
But I’m in it, so to speak
The thought of you is peaceful
And the file on you complete
Except what I forgot to do
A thousand kisses deep

Don’t matter if you’re rich and strong
Don’t matter if you’re weak
Don’t matter if you write a song
The nightingales repeat
Don’t matter if it’s nine to five
Or timeless and unique
You ditch your life to stay alive
A thousand kisses deep

The ponies run
The girls are young
The odds are there to beat
You win a while, and then it’s done
Your little winning streak
And summon now to deal with your invincible defeat
You live your life as if it’s real
A thousand kisses deep

I hear their voices in the wine
That sometimes did me seek
The band is playing Auld Lang Syne
But the heart will not retreat
There’s no forsaking what you love
No existential leap
As witnessed here in time and blood
A thousand kisses deep

Leonard Cohen (do you want to listen to the poem? Click here)

Vivienne Westwood Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Last week Vivienne Westwood said queen-to-be Kate Middleton had no style and she would never design her wedding dress. Due to that she might have lost some fans, but after the spectacular show of today they’ll come running back soon.

The Westwood show, attended by the likes of Kanye West and Boy George, was one big parade of over-the-top looks. On a golden runway models with dark make-up, crazy headpieces, funky hairdo’s, big big earing, knee socks and costume-like clothing appeared.

They wore loose pants, ultra shorts pants, printed jumpsuits, pencil-like skirts and chalk suit jackets. Shiny accessories (in golden baroque prints) gave the looks a funky twist and some outfits, covered in golden beads and sequins, were too glittery to handle.

The finale was a true fantasy, with one special dress after the other. A ‘classic’ wedding gown was Vivienne’s last masterpiece, with a tight body and loootts of tulle. Indeed, not the kind of dress we picture Kate Middleton in, coming April.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The weeping willow that dominated the stage at the Lanvin-show beautifully symbolized the roots of tradition, according to designer Alber Elbaz.
And despite that serious but positive vibe, Elbaz went dark, maybe it were the hats or the soundtrack with hints of Twin Peaks. The show started with plain, grounded, coated and caped looks, with pilgrim shoes and ladylike handbags.  Metal trims were a suitably, intriguing detail. But the severity had to fight itself free during the second part of the show. And the designer helped, wih metallic jewelry, textures, severe but sensual drapes, black lace, knit sheaths disordered by poufs of mousseline, and roses.

It was great to witness the way Elbaz built desire into his clothes, especially with simple things like a nip and tuck of fabric or with a zipper.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

It was not the strongest collection of Galliano for the house of Christian Dior, but is was for sure a memorable one. Not only because of the scandal the designer caused last week, but also because of the fact Dior fired the designer, the speech that Sidney Toledano – chief executive of Dior – held before the show this afternoon  and the atelier that received a standing ovation at the end of the show. In his speech Mr  Toledano didn’t mention Galliano at all, but he decried racism while reminding guests of the long heritage and bright future of Dior (see  parts of the speech below)

Outside the showvenue – the Rodin Museum – the scene was a mob. Police closed the street to accomodate the hundreds of people invited to the show waiting to get in.

The collection – that was finished by the couture house’s staff – was ultra-feminine. It reflected flirty styles from the early 20th century – and seemed primed for flappers, knickered ruffians, and ladies in their boudoirs. Boots were over-the-knee and on platforms, and the bags were big and roomy – looks that haven’t been seen on other runways this season, where shoes and bags have tended to be more prim and structured.

Parts from the speech Mr Toledano gave before the start of the show (quoted from New York Times):

“Since its founding by Monsieur Dior, the House of Christian Dior has lived an extraordinary and wonderful story and has had the honor of embodying France’s image, and its values, all around the world. What has happened over the last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal to us all. It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be. Such statements are intolerable because of our collective duty to never forget the Holocaust and its victims, and because of the respect for human dignity that is owed to each person and to all peoples. These statements have deeply shocked and saddened all at Dior who give body and soul to their work, and it is particularly painful that they came from someone so admired for his remarkable creative talent.”

…

“Christian Dior’s values were those of excellence in all that he undertook, of elegance and craftsmanship reflecting his unique talent.”

…

“The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsman, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the values and the vision of Monsieur Dior.”

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The idea of a plain blanket just thrown over a model was Rick Owens’ starting point for his fall/winter collection. But Rick Owens did much more than just that. He designed perfectly fitting hoodies, capes and thick woolen dresses with leather parts.

His collection was very winterproof, since Rick used rich wintery materials like fur, leather, cashmere and wool and designed several quilted coats. He  also fully covered his models. Their necks and hair were covered by fur ‘hoodies’, they wore long skirts. Their pants were tucked into their boots for extra warmth and their gloves were huge . The only body parts we saw throughout the show, were a few arms.

Though there was hardly any color in the collection; this time it felt light. Shades of beige, taupe, cinnamon, black and navy were alternated and matched with colorful red lips, the perfect detail in every look.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Never a dull moment in fashion-land. After the John Galliano-scandal and the rumors about who’s going to replace him, Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin was the next in line to cause gossip and speculations. He was absent from the label’s show and although a spokesperson from the brand insisted he was just feeling unwell and tired, others spread the rumor he was in a mental institution since te beginning of this year.

Let’s hope for Decarnin he is rested by now. And for his collection: it seemed he toned it a bit down, it was actually rather minimalistic – with the black, white, silver and gold. But the designer sticked to the strong shoulders and his favorite mix: skinny pants, jackets, boots, short skirts and T-shirts.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Almost entirely black. Ann Demeulemeester sticked to her own language, and let only a little bit of red and blue speak for itself – mixed with black that is. It was dark, goth and tough yet beautiful, romantic and fragile/edgy at the same time.

The Belgian designer strated with aggressively tailored looks, some cut from hard leathers, and all laced with loose strips trailing in the back.  But the softer, gentler and more feminine side of the collection showed up with beaded fringed jacket and dresses. Dresses were softly draped. Feathers decorated most of the oufits, which gave it a more warrior-look:  Demeulemeester stuck raven-black feathers into wide cartridge-pleated straps, like bullet belts.

Zac Posen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Oprah Winfrey wore one of his dresses to the Oscars this week, so regardless of any critics that will follow after his show Zac Posen must be in a good mood.

Today he presented his new collection in the basement of Palais de Tokyo. The show area was a simple, bleak room, but the clothes made up for the non-exciting space.

Posen’s models (wearing bright eye shadow) looked slim and lean in their silhouette accentuating, wool dresses. Even Crystal Renn appeared slimmer in her black dress with low V-line and strong shoulders.

The short, straight pants looked good on the girls, yet might not look as flattering on a woman with a more average size and length.

Shades of cobalt blue, teal, rose blush and silver were perfect for winter, but didn’t necessarily belong together in one collection.

A few peplum jackets and fur coats gave the collection some edge and overall it was a great collection for women of many different sizes and ages. Or as Zac called them himself: voracious, sexy, intelligent and chic women

We say: more than enough options for next big event, Oprah!

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