Celine Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Oh, oh, that was another beautiful, simple and sober collection Phoebe Philo created for Celine. Hardly any prints, except a wood-print in brown-tones, but muted colors ranging from black, brown, darkred, yellow, orange, creme and light pink.

It was minimal to the max: long straight coats, two-colored pants, sleeveless tops at pleated skirts and a graphic play with contrasting colors in shirts and turtlenecks. No jewelry, onlu twotoned pointed shoes, two new handbags – that’s it. The only indulging part were the fur-coats and deux-pieces in a soft furry fabric.

Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Looking at the location, the finale of the show and the hair of the models, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons chose gold as the new color. But that conclusion was made after the ‘Hybrid fashion’ she presented: from the front a coat looked like a python trench but from the back it were frilled shorts. Or from one side an outfit looked like a schoolboy jacket and pants and from another perspective it was a silk blouse with a sheer front.
But Kawakubo showed more familiar work too: she  took a trenchcoat, for instance, and shredded and balled it into something. There were the fuzzy circles on jackets, brocades, cutaway jackets, and the asymmetry. There was also a whole passage of dresses ruched and draped from vintage silk scarves that the designer herself has collected over the years.

This was a show to remember, certainly for her fans and everybody who seeks new creativity in fashion.

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Jean Paul Gaultier likes joking around with fashion a little. And so he did yesterday, by taking La bourgeoise sans age as his muse. You know, those maturing beauties who dress their age but still want to shine a little. And they are sooo French.

Gaultier took the traditional dressing of the upper class – tweeds, tailored trousers, cardigans, blouses, deux pieces, pinstripe – and reworked them. The models came dressed as matrons in gray beehives and kitten heels and were totally covered up, no button was left unbuttoned. There were even turtlenecks worn under long, straight dresses. And during their walk the models liberated themselves from something, a glove, a shoe, a coat. It was fun to watch and the message was clear: mature women look great in Jean Paul Gaultier!

Streetfashion Paris FW2011 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Again a happy end at the Sonia Rykiel show, and finally some color after quite some dark colored shows we’ve seen  elsewhere in Paris.

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow later.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Viktor & Rolf are ready for a battle. A battle against the loss of beauty with an army of red-faces models dressed in proper ammunition: ultra-stiff tailoring. With the show designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren wanted to express their passion for fashion.

The show opened literally with an medieval looking drawbridge that revealed the entrance of the V&R-fort. Out came the model with their faces painted red acting strong and angry. They were dressed in tough looking, long coats with bladelike pleats around collars and shoulders like giant pinwheels.

The collection took inspiration from knights or crusaders, looking at the stiff leather skirts, the red, black and mat silver and the red roses printed at dresses like it was part of a weapon-shield. The softly draped dresses also reminded of medieval times. The second part of the show dresses softened a little bit when fabrics became more fluid and ruffles entered.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Junya Watanabe presented an elegant, sober and tough-chic collection focused at silhouette, leathers and fabric. At a haunting soundtrack and accompanying reading of Arthur Rimbaud’s ‘Ophelia’ this collection became more than a biker-tour.

The leather proofed to be the perfect material for an exercise in construction and couture shapes, some sets reminded of .Dior New Look 1947 or boxy Balenciaga-esque styles. It made an mix of  soft-meets-hard. From the front, many of the looks came completely structured and molded, while from behind, they were cut loose.
After the rigid black leather, paired with  stiff pleated schoolgirl-skirts, Watanabe introduced knits and easy LBD’s  in generous and sometimes slouchy silhouettes. Even the leathers were treated as fabric in wrap dresses.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

At the sound of a slow heartbeat and Leonard Cohen’s poem A thousand kisses deep Haider Ackermann presented his romantic, serene collection. It lend to an outburst of emotion at the audience. The designer received a long and weldeserved applause. Some tears were falling down.

Don’t matter if the road is long
Don’t matter if it’s steep
Don’t matter if the moon is gone
And the darkness is complete
Don’t matter if we lose our way
It’s written that we’ll meet
At least, that’s what I heard you say
A thousand kisses deep

I loved you when you opened
Like a lily to the heat
You see, I’m just another snowman
Standing in the rain and sleet
Who loved you with his frozen love
His second hand physique
With all he is and all he was
A thousand kisses deep

I know you had to lie to me
I know you had to cheat
You learned it on your father’s knee
And at your mother’s feet
But did you have to fight your way
Across the burning street
When all our vital interests lay
A thousand kisses deep

I’m turning tricks
I’m getting fixed
I’m back on boogie street
I’d like to quit the business
But I’m in it, so to speak
The thought of you is peaceful
And the file on you complete
Except what I forgot to do
A thousand kisses deep

Don’t matter if you’re rich and strong
Don’t matter if you’re weak
Don’t matter if you write a song
The nightingales repeat
Don’t matter if it’s nine to five
Or timeless and unique
You ditch your life to stay alive
A thousand kisses deep

The ponies run
The girls are young
The odds are there to beat
You win a while, and then it’s done
Your little winning streak
And summon now to deal with your invincible defeat
You live your life as if it’s real
A thousand kisses deep

I hear their voices in the wine
That sometimes did me seek
The band is playing Auld Lang Syne
But the heart will not retreat
There’s no forsaking what you love
No existential leap
As witnessed here in time and blood
A thousand kisses deep

Leonard Cohen (do you want to listen to the poem? Click here)

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2011 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The weeping willow that dominated the stage at the Lanvin-show beautifully symbolized the roots of tradition, according to designer Alber Elbaz.
And despite that serious but positive vibe, Elbaz went dark, maybe it were the hats or the soundtrack with hints of Twin Peaks. The show started with plain, grounded, coated and caped looks, with pilgrim shoes and ladylike handbags.  Metal trims were a suitably, intriguing detail. But the severity had to fight itself free during the second part of the show. And the designer helped, wih metallic jewelry, textures, severe but sensual drapes, black lace, knit sheaths disordered by poufs of mousseline, and roses.

It was great to witness the way Elbaz built desire into his clothes, especially with simple things like a nip and tuck of fabric or with a zipper.

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