Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

Alberta Ferretti was designing with portraits from the Italian Renaissance in mind. No wonder the collection had romance, femininity, a little mystery and imagination. Sometimes a bit too literal, like the red hood, trimmed in crimson fur on a puckered princess-cut coat with a zip front for a little sporty panache.
Ferretti makes beautiful, feminine things, such as the group of filmy, ivory chiffon and organza peasant blouses with blouson sleeves, high ruffled necklines and traditional lace embellishments. Likewise, the sweeping crotchet knits, ethereal black-and-white lace gowns and short dresses with elaborate embroideries that reflected the deep, fiery tones of dawn and dusk.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

It was Alessandro Michele’s debut at Gucci this week. And his fall collection felt like a sharp break from Giannini’s Gucci and also Tom Ford’s version. The new man at the helm has a decidedly more romantic outlook. His Gucci girl is an ingenue with an eccentric side, one who looks as though she’s picked out her clothes at estate sales and vintage stores, and mixed them with handfuls of heirloom rings, chunky rimmed glasses, the occasional pompom hat, and fur-lined horse-bit loafers. The collection included colorful coats with fur cuffs and military leanings; fluttery, shapeless botanic print dresses; and unlined, skin-baring separates.

Ready to Fish by Ilja Visser Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Un-related to any specific theme or inspiration, Ready to Fish by Ilja Visser started with a blank canvas to present a collection that reads like a sketchbook, and a compendium of the Ready to Fish style. It was important for them to capture the sketch-like quality of the unfinished – leaving room for both our own as the customers imagination and interpretation.
As a metaphor for this collation of ideas, used classic marble prints, adorning sketchbooks and archive folders that will prove instantly recognizable to everyone. The collection also emphasizes the idea that many archetypes that inspired the designer belong to the public domaine, and that the use of codes, references verses our own interpretations and developments are at constant play throughout the design process.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly

Avelon Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Dutch fashion brand Avelon isn’t a complete newcomer anymore. So after four start up years the label of designer Erik Frenken had reached a certain turning point. It was time for the next step, a fashion show, in Paris! At the Dutch embassy (seen before in the movie Les Intouchables) Frenken presented his summer collection. If denim and T-shirts used to be the label’s style before, this time it was a full on collection including skirts, trenchcoats, sweaters and evening dresses. All oversize and all given the label’s coolness and edgy, yet wearable touch. Heavy reptile leather played a big part and popped up on a pair of light silver pants, a red structured T-shirt top as well as on a black strapless evening dress. But it wasn’t all that heavy; sheer, fringed, sliced and pleated fabrics were introduced along the way too. Eye catching tribal inspired necklaces got the label’s signature copper finishing as the brand’s blue and black combination could be spotted on several designs (a sleeveless tuxedo and a pleated evening dress) too. It was a well balanced collection with just the right amount of tribe-references and modernity. Proof that Frenken was right to take his brand to another level. On a show schedule in between Céline and Saint Laurent, where it clearly has a place.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Like no other Stella McCartney is able to design clothes women really want to wear. And not just because they look so good, but because they’re wearable. Cause even now that wearability is high up on any designer’s agenda, not all designer clothes are that easily to wear in daily life. Most of Stella’s designs for summer 2015 are, although we don’t think we’ll be biking through Amsterdam in one of her floor sweeping, flapper, flared designs. Her unicolored, feminine designs seemed suitable for a large group of women, from almost any size or age. The roomy pants looked chic, the long knitted tops worn over knitted skirts appeared elegant and the ruffle/flapper details on the dresses made up for a feminine kind of playfulness. Bomber collars, sweater details, trench inspired epaulets, wrap skirts, large buckles, the chunkiest necklaces and cut-outs added to the modern character of the collection. Some models in checked numbers seemed to have just been lifted out of bed. This is comfort dressing with a twist.

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Jean Paul Gaultier’s collections seemed to be ‘best of’ collections for the last few seasons. The talented designer mostly celebrated his biggest success designs, like his signature trenchcoat, the Breton stripe, pinstripe, the corset etc. His shows with guest appearances of Madonna and Dita von Teese were true spectacles, yet new trends, hypes or refreshing ideas seemed missing. Perhaps a run up towards this weekends’ show, his last prêt-à-porter show, described by many as the end of an era. Jean Paul Gaultier, unlike some of his fellow designers, knows when to stop and he sure went out with a bang. No ordinary last runway show, but a beauty pageant was the setting for his grande finale. ‘Élection​ de Miss Jean Paul Gaultier 2015’ was divided into sections including the designer’s most recognizable work and some new side stories. A start of black and white tailoring followed up by colorful sportive and printed creations. Then some glittery ensembles, scarf printed designs, patchwork denim and shiny, streetwise gold. Some models were even dressed up as fashion’s most famous figures like Grace Coddington, Carine Roitfeld and Suzy Menkes. What an honor! And as if they were strutting the real streets models carried phones, umbrellas, flowers, footballs, cans of food and dogs. Some ‘older girls’ paraded in a few black outfits as tuxedo variations made their appearance. Mexican wrestling ladies with an attitude formed the finale of the show. And when Jean Paul Gaultier himself entered the runway wearing a ribbon stating ‘L’enfant terrible’ it was cheering and smiles everywhere. This was JPG prêt-à-porter.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Junya Watanabe never designed for the mainstream client, but his collection for spring was more extravagant than we’ve seen from him in a while. Cartoonesque figures strutted his runway, sporting bright colored, latex disc shaped clothing, shoes helmets and bright make-up to match. The silhouette, if there was any, was about bare legs and architectonic shapes. Round discs at the shoulders, 3D, origami-like effects on the tops, asymmetric, zipped skirts at the bottoms. Breton stripes and biker jacket influences referred to the designer’s signatures. Other than that it was hard to recognize real wearable pieces. Most looks were real show numbers, belonging in a fashion expo or on stage. Both Gaga and Minaj would be pleased to pull some performance pieces from this collection.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Surprisingly light was the show Rick Owens presented us with this week. It was (almost) out with the black and in with the ‘colors’. And even though it was just khaki, sand tones and shades of grey, in Owens’ world those are true colors. He used them on his remarkable amount of dresses (structured, strapless, sheer, asymmetrical and printed). Dresses made out of a mix of materials, both heavy and airy that almost appeared elegant. But even though Owens is showing us this new side of hem, there were still enough signature details (white painted faces, heavy cloglike footwear) to make it a signature and tough Owens collection.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

As fashion brands are turning more towards social media (the first brands are advertising on Instagram and Burberry is experimenting with a Twitter buy button) it’s not all that surprising these media form an inspiration as well. And who needs to look at previous decade or go through old archives when you can have an Instagram picture of Rihanna as the starting point of a collection. Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, who is friends with Rihanna, wanted to push the boundaries of sex for ss2015. Something he translated by showing a lot of skin through transparencies and cut outs. His creations paraded by the likes of Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner and Rosie Huntington Whitely were clean and powerful. Pencil skirts, high waisted pants, bandeau tops, sleeveless (tuxedo) jackets and one or two more airy and gracious evening gowns hit the runway. They had stripes and Mondrian-like checks (some of the checks were cutouts), they were tightfitting and sheer. But never did Rousteing take it too far. The clothes may not appeal to just everyone, but he presented the kind of sexiness that fits his target group. The kind of on the edge sexiness his friend and front row guest Kim Kardashian knows how to pull off (in real life and on Instagram).

« Previous Page — Next Page »