Viktor & Rolf – Backstage – FW2010

During the V&R show there was not as much excitement backstage as there usually would be. The reason for this, of course, was the fact that Viktor and Rolf were dressing their models on stage, in stead of backstage. It took away a lot of the tension behind the scenes, but on the catwalk the pressure was on!

With each outfit Viktor and Rolf had to put on one of the models we were worried whether or not they would make it in time. And fortunately they did. All the dressing and undressing was done in about twenty minutes.

Of course backstage a lot of the preparations were done. Viktor and Rolf had to be able to easily take off the many coats Kirsten McMenamy wore. So they shouldn’t be too tightened. V&R had to know exactly what to do with each dress too, so the rehearsals were more than necessary. Also, the models that walked in the second half of the show did have to be dressed before entering the catwalk (they were going to be undressed by V&R).

Though well-known models like Karlie Kloss, Mirte Maas and Patricia van der Vliet walked in the show. They were hardly recognizable. They all wore caps and sunglasses and had large ponytails. Their make-up was plain: bleached eyebrows, light-colored lips and a rather pale skin tone. So the make-up wasn’t too special but the spectacular show totally made up for that.

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

At JPG’s fashion show influences from many different countries wore used in the designs. We got a taste of Africa, Russia, India and Mexico. The styles from those countries were represented by extravagant headwear and folklore designs. There seemed to be so many different influences, it was hard to tell which country they belonged to.

Colorful African turbans were combined with satin dresses with chinoiserie prints. Black trenchcoats or fur coats were worn on top. There were colorful printed headscarves, fur hats and metallic Indian headpieces.

The models wore Masai necklaces combined with Western motorcycle jackets. They walked in harem pants with fur waistcoats. Their neon colored leggings heavily clashed with the folklore prints on their clothes. But it was all part of JPG’s cultural fashion explosion. Words can not even describe how wacky it all looked.

While the clothes varied in almost every aspect (shape, size, fabric, color) not much was to say about the collection in general. Apart from the fact that it was a cultural melting pot.

Between all influences JPG’s famous cone bra popped up every now and then. Though we loved watching the crazy styled outfits, the coats were the best pieces of the collection.

And the message of this show might just have been about embracing the cultural differences in the world and turning them into something of your own. At least we think that would be a nice approach.

Viktor & Rolf FW2010: transformation

The performance/show of Viktor & Rolf yesterday was about dressing and undressing, the whole machinery of fashion, the guts to wear something BIG and exaggerated. Especially the last transformation blew the audience’s mind: the big tulle skirt that the designers transformed into a huge cape/collar that was the topping on the last outfit.

A true fashion-moment.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

It was the show we were all waiting for for a few seasons. A real Viktor & Rolf show, which gives you goose pimples, makes you cry a little and wonder for a few moments what the designers’ message was.

Supermodel of the eighties Kristen McMenamy took the centerstage as a stationary mannequin dressed in 12 layers of coats, jackets and one or  two dresses. The two designers undressed her on a rotating part of the runway by taking off one layer at the time and put that layer on a model who showed it walking along the catwalk. The second half of the show the designers put another 12 layers back on McMenamy.

The collection was mostly black with silver and white as contrasting elements. The focus was at big coats, sporty outerwear like anoraks, nylon/silk dresses, transparent shirts and short dresses.

The most interesting part of this performance was the way it affected the audience. I was feeling stressed and wanted the designers to hurry and get ready before the other model arrived with another layer to put on. But Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren worked in their own pace and it looked like a well-oiled machine.

I waited 3/4 of an hour backstage to get a comment of the designers on their collection, but too many people wanted to shake their hands and too many celebs needed a picture. So I’ll try to make a little translation myself: was this collection about the whole fashion-system as a machinery, all the little parts that make the whole machine going? The walls and catwalk were covered with paper designed by Studio Job with graphics referring to tools, machines, factories etcetera. Or was this also about the clothes were zippers and straps transformed the silhouettes or which were totally convertible themselves ?

A press release e-mailed after the show explained that the concept was an expansion of the couture show the duo staged ten years ago with Maggie Rizer as the Russian doll. “This time around, we wanted to show the possibility to be BOTH wearable AND extreme at the same time!” Ah.

At the end of the show the audience felt almost relieved that the designers made it till the end and the final outfit blew everybody’s mind. The cheering and applause was well deserved.

Cacharel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Today Cacharel showed us a lot of what the brand is famous for: prints. They were there on the skirts, tops, dresses and coats and were computer printed. Some designs had small flowers all over them, others had larger patterns. A 16^th century French tapestry appeared to be the inspiration for these prints. So Cedric Charlier, whose second collection for Cacharel this was, literally ‘used the history of the brand (the prints) and took it to the future’ (computer prints), like he told the press.

The warm colors (red, gold, burgundy, green) were breathtaking and perfect for autumn. Especially a golden skirt with a red top and a black cardigan looked lovely, and very wearable too!

Made of silk and wool most pieces looked pretty decent. The long sleeved dresses (knee-length), the belted coats, and the skirts (above the knee) were not very exciting when it came to shape. Still the models looked very elegant and well-dressed in it.

The great thing about this Cacharel collection is the fact that almost any woman will find something she likes. And, while the designs are so wearable, she will easily be able to mix and match that item with clothes from her own wardrobe.

Streetfashion Paris FW2010 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Wauw, that was a beautiful and very feminine collection Ann Demeulemeester showed today. The Belgian designer – famous for her strong and tough ladies – brought out an almost sensual, ladylike collection with wide legged, supple trousers, short jackets with small belts tied around the waist for a tailored silhouette, classic capes and blood red accents.

Maybe it was in the contrasting colors and fabrics, the wufty feathers, the gloves,  the softer fabrics and focus at the waist – it all made the tough Demeulemeester woman look a bit more vulnerable, and that’s a compliment.

Of course there were her signature boots, leather jackets and harnesses of braided cords and dark sentiments, but the romantic mood dominated the collection.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

While military and outdoor sports were the two themes of Junya Watanabe’s show, army green shades were visible throughout the whole collection.

Tall girls with eye-catching, architectural, blond wigs and somewhat pale, camouflage covered faces strolled down the runway. Their wigs were so big that when two girls passed one another the wigs’ ends would touch each other.

The models wore their waisted coats and jackets in army green or with a camouflage print. They looked tough and feminine at the same time. Especially since their coats were combined with skirts and leggings. Besides, those coats were double breasted (masculine) at the front and pleated (feminine) at the back. And their heavy fabrics (masculine) were mixed with the satin of the skirts (feminine). The models wore black leather shoes and caps or (fake-fur) hoods on their heads.

For a change the models were dressed right for the season: fall/winter. No airy dresses or revealing tops at Watanabe. From under their thick jackets his models only showed as much as their uncovered hands, faces and ankles.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Haider Ackermann keeps surprising and spoiling his audience with beautiful, strong collections where he folds and twists leather as if it was chiffon and where he creates a poetic atmosphere with his sensual but strong layered mix.

Ackermann toughened up his collection with stiffer fabrics – wool, leather – and added softness with silk and satin for tops and cutout, buttersoft leather for long dresses. Main colors were brown, black and (silver)gray.

The accent was at the waist, tailored jackets formed the basis of the collection. He played with zipped and unzipped parts of jackets and tops which he folded and twisted until they looked like the curls of chocolate-shavings.

Still he maintained that slim, long silhouette although there were some shiny, straight outfits without any curve that looked rather new. It looks like Ackermann is exploring new ways of playing his game of texture and density.

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Fleece blankets had to be handed out to the audience at the Yohji Yamamoto show. There was no heat in the venue. After Yamamoto filed for bankruptcy protection in October many stores had to be closed. So maybe Yamamoto had to cut down on his heat expenses. Fortunately his fall collection soon made people forget about the cold.

Yamamoto showed a fine collection of navy, black and ivory pieces. He designed lots of sober asymmetrical coats and pinafore dresses. Pleated and netting fabrics were used a lot.

Due to the colors and the oversized shapes not a lot of the designs felt very feminine, yet they all had something special.

The coats in this collection will probably sell the best. And since there were a lot of them Yamamoto needn’t worry about the future of his brand. With more collections like this the Japanese brand will surely survive.

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