Raf Simons made his debut as chief creative officer at Calvin Klein with a collection thrilled with smart, powerful clothes for women and men. Everything surrounding the clothes sent out a message of efficiency and pragmatism.
His inspiration was all about the U.S. American youth – which is the future for this country. So the collection turned out to be minimalistic, but in a modern sense packed with American references both general and Calvinist. The former category covered workwear and How to Make an American Quilt Parka.
As it turned out, Simons didn’t go near the Seventies, preferring Klein’s tailored Nineties. Despite the stated inspiration of young America, the collection wasn’t all that young. The clothes will appeal, too, across gender. Throughout, Simons showed his-and-hers versions of like concepts, some nearly identical. There were buttoned-up shirts tucked into hip-slung trousers with bright athletic stripes down the sides; matching denim; those sheer Ts over men’s wear fabrics — his, pants, hers, a trouser skirt; spectacular mannish coats under a layer of slick plastic. The tailoring continued in perfectly cut men’s suits, some in vibrant colors; others, classic checks. For women, he also showed vibrant ribbed knit skirts and plastic-sheathed feathered dresses, their silhouette inspired by the house archive.
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