John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show FW2011
With his fallcollection 2011 John Galliano tried to tell the story of balletdancer Rudolph Nurejev: his struggles, triumphs and artistry. Of course he studied the life of the great dancer thoroughly and tried to translate every part of it even his idea of hope, discipline , dreams and the way he fled Russia. The show started with a pack of Russian emigres amidst a flurry of snowflakes dressed in heavy layers of second hand overcoats and with all their belongings packed at their back. Further on the show recounted Nurejev’s jet setting years in the Sixties, the torturing rehearsals in studios and finally beautiful, glamorous stage-costumes with Tatar-elements.
Galliano didn’t forget the fashiontrends though, he did send out beautiful militairy coats, chunky cardigans, cropped blazers and some fur. Colors were dark and rich, fabrics soft, wahed and luxurious.
Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
Givenchy’s catwalk show started 90 minutes late, due to a power failure. Yet Riccardo Tisci’s new collection was worth the wait. It, once again, felt very Gothic with lottts of black and a very awkward Rottweiler print that kept on popping up.
He showed many different versions of a wide short, worn with laced boots, which we doubt many men will want to wear. Rottweiler printed sweaters were combined with checked blouses and many of the jackets had black leather part.
Besides all the black Tisci also introduced some beige-colored looks and he ended with several tuxedos. All worn by male models sporting very big geek glasses, hats that looked like kettle turned upside down and tough belts.
We were also delighted to see three girls walking the show in between all the diverse group of men. Especially since two of them, Daphne Groeneveld (who is in the new Givenchy campaign) and Saskia de Brauw, are Dutch. Great job girls!
Amsterdam International Fashion Week Preview: Sage & Ivy FW2011
January 22, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items
The young fashion label Sage & Ivy will not be part of the official Amsterdam Fashion Week schedule, yet it’s show on the 28th of January is definitely a must-see. Designer for Sage & Ivy Alexia van Engelen chose to give her fashion show at the Felix Meritus center in Amsterdam. ‘I really wanted the show area to contribute to the feeling of my collection. I only have about ten minutes to explain to everyone what I’ve been working on for half a year, so I want everything to be in line with what I have to say.’
Alexia used St. Petersburg as an inspiration for her new winter collection. ‘You’ll see looks inspired by Russian costumes and folklore. I played with volume and alternated different materials and colors’, Alexia explained.
In the collection light colors like white, soft grey, lavender grey, moss green are used as well as shades of black, silver and gold. Alexia came up with some great outerwear for winter like a cape and a coat of faux fur and mohair. ‘We also used stretch satin and a tweed with threads of gold. Most items are great for winter, but on some of the designs you might wanna put an extra cardigans’, she says.
As well as all of the designs Alexia gave the collection. The words ‘My Beating Heart’ therefore will be visible in different ways throughout the collection. ‘I chose this name, because for this collection I stayed very true to my heart; I listened to myself. I used the name My Beating Heart on a body of gauze, on the sleeve of a sweater and on a belt’, Alexia says.
The collection will exist of 19 looks, which will all be accessorized by some amazing vintage jewelery Alexia got to borrow from someone in her family. ‘That lady had tons of great jewelry and was very cosmopolitan; the jewelry will really add something special to the looks in the show.’
Alexia’s favorite look is one of the three evening dresses of the collection, called Anastasia: ‘It’s a dress made from organza with a baroque fit. The sleeves and the skirt have a lot of volume and the body is very tight.’
A trend Alexia predicts for next fall is a mix of light, transparent fabrics, heavy knitwear and rich fabrics like jacquard.
The music of the Sage & Ivy show will be a clash between an old song from the band Black Cat and a new one, Runaway from Kanye West. We’re looking forward to hearing that mix and seeing the collection. Everything already looks promising.
Photograpy: Jon Loek @ Team Peter Stigter
Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
The men’s suit played a major part in the collection of Comme des Garcons, even cardigans looked like a well made jacket. It was actually a very decadent collection compared to other’s we’ve seen of the Japanese label. Maybe it was because of the flowing, silk fabrics used for skirts and pants mixed with slim tailoring. It was a very modern, layered mix of T-shirts, comfy and soft looking jackets and wide pants. The loose fit is something we have to get used to, after years of slim tailoring.
But is all looked relaxed and rich, thanks to the colors and fabrics.
Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 21, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
For next fall Junya Watanabe showed us a different take on the Fair Isle knits, which were a big hit this winter. Instead of showing the print on cardigans and sweaters Watanabe used it on suit jackets and coats in the most colorful examples. They looked comfy and warm and formed a good combination with the ankle hem of the (pretty basic-looking) pants. As they ambled around some park benches, placed in the middle of the stage, Watanabe’s mustached models really worked the new look.
The color palette ranging from bright red and blue to mustard yellow and dark green gave the collection a cheerful twist and showed the versatility of the collection too. ‘Cause whether it’s a 18-year old student or a 45-year old family man, many fellows will be able to work some of the fairy isle items into their wardrobes.
Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 21, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
Like other designers Dries Van Noten seemded to have found inspiration in the militairy world, but more free and luxurious using his strengths as a tailor and colorist. His own comment to the collection though was that he wanted something glamorous without being feminine and that’s where David Bowie as the Thin White Duke comes along. Not only in the silhouette, also the grooming of the models and in the soundtrack.
A battalion of navy jackets and overcoats — some oversize and belted, others slim-line — formed the backbone of Van Noten’s collection. He added removable fur collars and lapels or inner nylon shells in contrasting shades. He showed little discipline in the pants department, sending out skinny motorcycle and oversize Bowie-styles in equal measure. He also played with oppositions: a formal navy evening jacket over a casual white tee: a sleek, chic shawl-collared blazer in traditional camel pinning down the silhouette over huge white cargo pants; a cropped cadet jacket laden with bullion embroidery paired with a chunky hand-knit; dark overcoats in the most traditional English materials layered over their exact twins in bright white technical fabrics.
Sjaak Hullekes Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 21, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items
Dutch designer Sjaak Hullekes showed his new menswear collection in Paris this week. Like you’d expect from Sjaak it was full of perfectly tailored designs, like neat trousers, blouses, coat and some winter proof cardigans. Sjaak used a beautiful colored palette ranging from light grey to camel to black. His designs were all very wearable and he showed nothing too over the top. Two items people will need some time to adjust to were Sjaak’s black shirt made of a large netting and a white version with a netted collar. Apart from those two items, we’re sure the collection will be a definite hit once it hits the stores.
Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 20, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
The Louis Vuitton-collection was a pitch dark one, with lots of black, dark-blue, brown and highlighted by off-white and the brightest of red. The silhouette was rather straight and sometimes the waist was accentuated with a belt or ribbon tied around it. It seemed designer Paul Helbers played with the volumes of a down jacket, textures of velvet, leather and fur, the mix of formal with informal. The coat played a big part in this collection, from kimono-inspired to parka. Different fabrics used in one item gave a contemporary look, the shiny and sharp body-warmers had the look of body armor. Luckily the red and white flowing fabrics like silk added some air into the rather strict and sober collection.
Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 20, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
It seemed the Viktor & Rolf Monsieur winter collection 2011 was sampled as if it was a normal dayroutine starting with a man in his homewear, a gray combination of a sweater and a slim jersey sportspants/longjohn, followed by a man in white undies and a shirt and ending by a man dressed in a bomber-jacket covering his smoking. In between the designers presented everything a men’s wardrobe should contain during the day and eveninghours: a comfy cardigan, a lammy jacket, a trenchcoat, a good knit and a few nice looking suits in black, gray or even red. Having those basics a man can vary as much as he can. He can even wear his longjohn with a dressy jacket or let his shirt peep out. It gave the rather serious and formal looking clothes a more informal character.
Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
On Wednesday night we witnessed the rebirth of fashion label Thierry Mugler. Not only because the new creative director Nicole Formichetti debuted his first collection for the label. But also cause as of today the label is called just ‘Mugler’ (incl. a brand new logo).
Many came to witness Nicola Formichetti’s debut collection for Mugler, while Formichetti has been responsible for many of Lady Gaga’s looks (he was her stylist). Of course everyone was hoping the diva would turn up herself, but she was nowhere to be found. We did hear her brand new song playing during the fashion show, though. Gaga was even mentioned as the ‘musical director of this menswear project’ in Mugler’s show notes.
On his debut collection Formichetti worked together with Romain Kremer (who already worked for the brand before) and together they did one hell of a job. The show was full of daring menswear, like extremely wide and padded trousers, long (sometimes belted) jackets and tops revealing the mens’ bellies. Not to mention all the latex and the extreme tattoos, masks and make-up the models had on; very scary!
Shades of blue, black and olive green passed by as well as a bright orange color. Towards the end of the show the models wore some kind of transparent veils over their heads. It looked scary and crazy, but at least they had fun with it.
Now let’s hope Formichetti will be as successful at Mugler as he was with Gaga and the label is back in business!
