Chloé Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Oversize clean looks are Clare Waight Keller’s biggest bet for 2013. They were given both sporty and elegant references like bold shapes, reflecting sleeve details and flower appliqués. Perhaps Keller took the girly-ness a little too far when she sent out a series of sweet, sheer and ruffled dresses. But at least she presented them in this season’s it-way; worn over Bermuda shorts (another hit for SS2013). Blouses with standing collars and cross over jackets added a subtle touch of Asia. In Palais de Tokyo an Chloé exhibition which covers 60 years of the brand has just opened. And this collection would have fit in just fine.

 

Giambattista Valli Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Tailored suits and pretty dresses alternated each other in the first few Valli looks. A perfect balance of strong and soft, which slowly merged with one another as the show continued. There might have been a lot of masculine influences; every look was chic and sophisticated. Jumpsuits were given small legs and shorts sleeves. Structured cropped jackets were combined with sheer tops and sexy briefs. Plus low V-necks and peplum details added an extra dose of femininity to the collection, without making it too fussy and frilly. Greys, blacks and whites got a touch of red towards the end. Gold and silver beaded creations looked chic for both Valli’s old and young clientèle. And they might put their panties on display a little too often, Valli’s women will be perfectly dressed gals next summer.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Stella McCartney seemed in a happy mood regarding her ss2013 collection in vibrant whites, oranges and shots of green – and some black.  The colors were incorporated into an inventive lineup. In a season where sheer fabrics and layers are seen everywhere, McCartney added  layering pants — see-through pajamas under cropped trousers or long, crisp eyelets over snappy shorts. She also used structured organza for an warm-up jacket and sweatshirt. And McCartney combined sweatshirts over a dress in a key motif, superlean ribbed knits featuring big, bright ellipses on sheer plissé. On the tailored side, low-belted jackets and tuxedo-inspired day dresses looked simple and smart.

A  graphic component ran throughout, achieved with geometric layering and the recurring elliptical motif.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Riccardo Tisci presented a wonderful collection yesterday where he mixed serenity and edge into something special. His references were the Sixties and the archives of the Givenchy-house for the shapes. He also took inspiration from nuns for the purity and lightness.

And it all came together: ecclesiastical through the colors  (baby blue, white and black),  the feeling of restraint (signalled by rivets holding waists and shoulders in place and worn around necks as chokers), and through the shapes – which played on covering up.

Tisci’s catholic backround turned up in the priest collars on his sixties shifts, in the voluminous bishop sleeves on a striking black jacke,  in the split skirts worn with crisp, dry blazers and pants, like church vestments.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

The theatrical romance of the labels´founders was absent, yet the enormous hats of layered tulle reminded us we were indeed attending a Galliano show. Bill Gaytten sobered things up for the brand as he sent crispy clean oversize garments out on the runway. Endless fabrics were tossed, turned and folded (again the origami references) into elegant evening gowns in white, salmon, black and blue. Next to the mono colored pieces he introduced prints (and not the most subtle ones). City-inspired prints of hundreds of cars in standstill traffic slightly disturbed the ladylike feeling of the collection. Yet they did make the designs appear slightly more youthful and modern. Fascinated by the structured stiffness of Gayttens creations we open mouthedly watched the (mostly) A-line shaped creations come and go. How we would love to strut around in one of those blue maxi pants for one day.

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Turquoise, camel, brown, yellow and blue; a gorgeous color palette was Christophe Lemaire’s first hit ingredient to the Hermès spring collection. His oriental aloha prints that popped up several times during the show were a second success part. And combined with perfect tailoring; there were lots of strong looks to be spotted.

Full on leather looks, like a turquoise croc ensemble, and leather detailing put the H into Hermès. And of course new Birkin bags (a weekender and a backpack) had to be introduced.

To complete the celebration of all things Hermès the models wore the brand’s scarves (in contrasting prints) around their necks (held together by a chic pin) and around their wrists. Even a fashion newby would be able to see what articles Hermès’ focuses on. Yet we don’t blame Lemaire. A heritage as strong as that of Hermès has all the right to be put on display.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

A new kind of minimalism was Ennio Capasa’s starting point for Costume National SS2013. With so many brands focusing on minimalism the designer decided to bring something different to the table; minimalism with more technique, elegance and more of a couture feeling. His creations indeed were minimalism with a twist. A twist mostly formed by a print of an aloe leaf and bird wing snipped with scissors (even on a pair on sunglasses!). Capasa experienced with color too; mixing unlikely shades as red and fuchsia, but also navy and black together in a series of tuxedo looks. Matador hats, leather clutch bags and unexpected asymmetrical details in almost every piece of fabric further strengthened the collection. One thing’s for certain CN’s minimalism was unlike any other kind we’ve seen the last couple of weeks.

 

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Phoebe Philo returned to a traditional show for spring. Philo’s clearest message was a twist of fabric, a wide bandeau of sorts, across the bodice of T-shirts and other tops. Sometimes tone-on-tone, sometimes with an additional twist of black netting against white.  There was rawness  in unsewn hems, whether fully frayed or with a few long threads flying about.
While Philo still loves a slouchy, mannish silhouette, she also included looks with leaner, more sensual lines. Another nod to the vibe: dresses with deep V-necklines inset with graphic netting.
The accessories got everybody’s attention: the silly flat slippers lined in vibrant fur  were a runway-only joke. Simply beautiful was her new handbag, a soft pastel clutch rolled over on top like a paper bag.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

An invitation for the Kenzo-show was one of the hottest tickets of Paris Fashion Week. Funny how a brand can turn into something cool in just a wink. All kudos go to minds now operating behind Kenzo,  Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. They have brought a whole new spirit. The duo has optimism and makes fashion fun for everyone.

The setting of the show was a psychedelic projection of color and print,  in front of which the models walked: in khaki safari suits and trench coats and dresses; in  bustier tops and trousers with exotic prints; in off-the-shoulder dresses with a thick utility belt around the waist; in mint biker jackets; in parka jackets; and in those tiger jumpers. This time the tiger came disguised amongst a graphic crowd of lines. There were camouflage leopard prints in yellow and blue, and it came in orange and green later.

Leon and Lim  managed to wipe the slate clean and turn this floundering brand around to be a jungle beast.

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

It felt like a Best Of collection and..well.. it kind of was. In about twenty minutes Gaultier presented “An homage to all the pop stars of the eighties”. Artist who, the designer himself, has dressed at the top of their game. We had a blast looking at Grace Jones, Boy George, Madonna, Amanda Lear , Annie Lenox, David Bowie and Michael Jackson look-a-likes. Yet to say JPG exceeded himself with this XL collection would be a little exaggerative. It was a spectacle and an enumeration of what Gaultier does best. Striped suits, corsets, cone bras, overalls; all styled to the max, like usual at a JPG show. It sure looked like Jean Paul had a blast putting this highly entertaining show together. Let’s hope the designer keeps on dressing great artists like the ones represented today. We would love another Greatest Hits collection in about ten years from now.

 

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