Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014

‘Home sweet home’ whispered the clothes Walter van Beirendonck presented yesterday. He presented a ss14 collection with highly graphic well-tailored suits, shorts and jackets with color blocking and patterns looking like the interior of a room complete with wall paper.  A few looks even displayed a table and flower-filled vase — one literally sprung from a jacket like a children’s pop-up book, in 3-D.

Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Since Martin himself is no longer on board Maison Martin Margiela has been rediscovering itself. Today’s collection was proof of that as it was not the most coherent line up. Yet the fashion house did present some strong designs that proudly carried the name of the French fashion label. Oversize and menswear seemed to be the red line in the show the houses described as a “rally” in the show notes. Overall, suits, pinstripe waistcoats (and quite a few other ones – patent leather and fur – too). Black and white looks were given a hand painted yellow or pink twist as more color followed on patent orange and red leather and strangely crafted, multicolored mesh tops. The finale of floor sweeping panel dresses that seemed to have some kind of ad texts on them appeared to be a whole other chapter of the Margiela fall collection.

 

 

 

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Yamamoto’s collection on Friday included some of his best ideas and creations put in a new mix fit of clothing for 2013. The designer used eighties different small themes for this show. We spotted workwear, Asian inspiration (kimono sleeves, origami details), arty influences. Lots of black and asymmetry, liked you’d expect. Yet blues, browns touches of orange, blue and purple (as a surprising bright part in the middle of the show) kept the show very much alive. “My role is to get the value of clothing back for everyone: cutting, draping, tailoring. There was no real theme to the collection, I just wanted to make dresses, to tailor and enjoy the value of clothing”, Yamamoto said backstage. And as he felt it was his duty to bring back the value of clothing (that has according to him been gone for a while) he collection may not have originated from a positive point, the overall mood was cheerful. Beautifully crafted creation, perfectly fitting the models’ bodies. No time to look back, the future is bright (orange, blue and purple shaded, that is).

 

Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

It was Geraldo da Conceicao’s debut collection for Sonia Rykiel, since the brand got it’s new owners Fung Brands Ltd. last year. For his first collection he managed to mix Sonia’s signatures with his own skills and preferences. Knitted suits with playful buttons opened the show, followed by a selection of knitted dresses that fully breathed Rykiel. The next black leather, more architectural pieces seemed more of Geraldo’s personal thing yet they were quickly followed up by more knitwear. Casual pieces worn by bra-less models and business chic designs like a baby pink suit jacket and a baby blue ensemble. A trio of printed tunics perhaps looked a bit out of place, yet the finale sweaters (with kisses and flowers) brought back that joyful Rykiel feeling. It might take a while before Geraldo da Conceicaso has fully found the right direction he wants to go with the brand, but he’s on the right track.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

It’s always such a pleasure to see a show of Haider Ackermann. It’s almost like meditation: the slow pace of the models, the sensibility of the clothes, the pureness. Again, Ackermanns guide to his fall-collection was the thin line between strength and fragility.  Tailoring played a major role as did quiet tones of gray, black and white, green. Some of the tailoring was oversized, with full-legged pants and droopy sleeves almost to the knees. The model looked as if they were dressed in their lovers’ clothes. There we also sharper pieces with strong shoulders and defined waists, like the houndstooth military jacket with the collar torn off and the seams left raw, or another jacket in  brown with purple velvet lining its ruffled peplum.

Fur was new at Ackermann, but he used it well. His shearling flight jackets and his collarless beaver-fur coats looked beautifiul.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

 

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

In his second ready to wear-collection for the house of Christian Dior Raf Simons brought art and Dior closer together. You could see it on the clothes with Andy Warhol’s early, sensitive drawings as a recurring graphic. Warhol also echoed in the silvered spheres suspended in the room and the Laurie Anderson soundtrack reflected the right mood. But also Dior and Simons got closer: the Bar jacket was paired with baggy pants in a navy or black denim wool.
The message seemed to be about control. Just look at the way the classic “lady” silhouettes—bustier, full-skirted—were translated into black leather, or the Dior houndstooth was transmogrified into a sexy little bustier with a wrapped silk dress. They’ll likely be the ambassadors for the new Dior.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2013 Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

After a surprise treat of popcorn and a mini bottle of champagne it was showtime for Lanvin. Showing off Alber Elbaz’ many variations to the Little Black Dress the models were fully accessorized. They sported large chain necklaces with the words happy, help and cool as bees and flowers were stitched onto the clothes. Though most pieces were classic ones – the day suit, the fifties cocktail dress, the godet skirt and the corsetlike top – the collection had a young feeling to it. Elbaz may have doubted his position in the current fashion world (with bloggers and editors being all about getting their streetstyle picture taken) it seemed the designer found back the fun in fashion.

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

For his fall collection Peter Copping felt inspired by a seventies Nina Ricci ballet ad. He used the soft side of the world of ballet to create his contemporary yet classic looks. As the first models appeared on the red runway, lit by red lights, walking to the sound of a live piano (by Katia and Marielle Labèque) the right mood was set. Copping’s Parisian chic models looked flawless portraying some of his ultra-feminine silhouettes. They wore pencil skirts and cigarette pants, A line coats and strapless evening gowns in simple (yet perfect) shades of ivory, nude, red and black. Accentuated waists, bustiers, long gloves, perfect red lips and cute headbands brought an extra dose of romance to their appearances. Copping added modern touches in the form of unfinished dress details, visible bra straps a fur lined parka and a few bare bellies on sight. Just to provide the collection from becoming a full on back to the seventies ad time travel.

 

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