Celine Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Relaxed, wearable, at ease; Céline’s fall/winter collection wasn’t one to deliver a fresh fashion message. Instead, Phoebe Philo sticked to her strength and came up with some of her stronger signature Céline pieces. Nothing brand new, or overthought, fashion wise. Yet a kind of stillness, Philo felt she needed within the crazy turmoil of coming up with something different every single season. Understandably so. Her bare faced models effortlessly showed of her easy going fall, neutral (ivory, beige, caramel) shaded pieces. Fit and flare dresses worn over wide-leg trousers. Silk and shiny dresses as well as big buttoned-up shirts with undone cuffs added to the shows pajama dressing style. As heavy raincoats (a blue leather number stood out) and boiled wool seemed more suitable for the season. And what shoe better to fit that easy going-vibe than a flat leather sandal, fall/winter or not. Most of the newness was in the bags, tied and strapped around models’ waists as well as the door-knocker earrings. We’re not necessarily overcome with enthusiasm. This was one for the true Philo fans.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2016, Day 5

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Womenswear Fashion Week.

Comme des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Though spring hasn’t yet sprung Comme des Garcons was fully in bloom on Saturday. While imagining the punks in the 18th century Rei Kawakubo came up with a crafted collection of 17 outfits that embodied some serious floral explosion. Rose petals, 3D flower constructions and a number of rose prints pushed the brands girly side forward. The richest materials combined added to the luxe layering concept of the collection. Pinks and reds all over, yet it wasn’t necessary a sweet and upbeat show. Rather, those architectonic creations accompanied by those 18th century black wigs seemed to deliver a darker message. Stating there’s a revolution at hand. A fashion revolution wrapped in some glorious multiple rose-patterned jacquards, that is.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

With his exceptional feel for colour and his trained and unique eye for mixing prints, Haider Ackermann haven’t let us down any second. His army of female soldiers marched steadily on his music of the Oscar-winning film, The Revenant. But why should a army always be so harsh and distant? Ackermann searched for more grace, softness, elegance and happiness while still presenting strong women you don’t want to mess with (at least, we don’t). And that contrast between those two worlds was perfectly executed here in Paris. Super-skinny trousers with velvet at the front and leather in the back, a jacket softly slipping off one shoulder, next level cleavage all the way down too the belly button, loose low slung pants and a slim red velvet dress that’s perfect to flash every sinewy mile-long leg (yep, talking to you Angelina). The deep autumn-inspired colours felt very warm and made us want to bath in their sensuality: copper, purple, a deep bottle green, magenta and fuchsia. And of course, we could only sigh when seeing the utterly cool hair rag-rolled in bold coloured velvet. Can somebody tell us where can we apply for a job in this Paris national army?

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2026, day 4

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Womenswear Fashion Week.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Where was Dior taking us, other than a fashion show? The grandiose set made us feel like we were about to step in a huge time machine. The big mirroring backdrop and a voice repeating “Time, time, time” on the soundtrack were only endorsing this. And if there’s only one thing that’s more involved with tim(e)ing, it must be fashion. It got us speculating with our neighbours. But what got us even more speculating was: what to expect from a show without primary creative director? At least, it didn’t stop the celebs from coming. And social media was still overflowing with Dior hashtags. Sure, there was no guessing whether this was still Dior, but it was missing the big bang. It’s jaw-dropping effect, it’s I-want-it-all and I-want-it-now- effect.

This collection felt younger and less extravaganza than previous ones. We saw the familiair bar jackets, off-the-shoulder bustier tops being layered over dresses, contrast of patterns of differing fabrics, contrasting furs as a collar, knee-length blossoming skirts, lots of black suiting, high-waisted pencil skirts and softer jackets. Not to mention those pointy shoes, and we can’t deny we felt our heart skip a beat when that red-orange coat came along. Dior showed us once more their serious atelier skills and it’s dedication to the house aesthetics, but we couldn’t help but wonder what’s the next step they’ll take in time. Like Anna Wintour said: fashion is always about looking forward and Dior need’s someone to direct this time machine.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Origami deluxe was the message we received at Junya Watanabe. The designer delivered an impressive collection filled with 38 statement looks. Basically all geometric 3D outfits worn over skinny black pants and longsleeves. Designs folded and pleated in some way delivering a cohesive selection of dazzling accordion style pieces. Rounded and sharp, bold and curvy, including those architectonic headpieces (incl. a Darth Vader helmet lookalike). Try getting into a cab in outfit #7. Watanabe himself described the designs as “Hyper Construction Dress” and sure they had quite the complex construction. We’d love to see the patterns of these art forms. Touches of vivid red and bright pink, added to the all black color palette, gave the collection an upbeat vibe. Pleats please!

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

When going to a Rick Owens show you can expect two things: disruptive runway spectacles, but in a way that will stick to your mind, tickles your subconscious. And perhaps your sense of responsibility. At least, we hope it will this time. It was less shocking than his last shows, but it definitely got a big message to tell you. Because it wasn’t only Leonardo Dicrapio who expressed his big concerns about the worldly environment. Rick Owens is so too. His autumn 2016 show was called Mastodon, in which he translated his feelings of uneasiness and discomfort about the environmental change, the way we treat our planet and especially that we don’t seem to care.

Although the message seems pretty clear, for the models the way through it wasn’t clear at all. Fourteen different women walked down the runway with their vision completely blurred by a cloud of hair that ballooned around their heads. Like magnificent hair balls from your cat (ugh!). Although the message of this collection might be hard, the execution was pretty soft. Soft leathers, lots of draping, twisting and folding, soft lines and silhouettes, fuzzed-out knit mohair, bubble-shaped jackets, crushed velvet capes and sleeveless tunics. Colors ranged from creamy white to splashes of pistachio green, pink, vermilion, orange, eggplant, brown and black. Even the shoes seem to be pretty comfortable: thigh-high leather sneakers. We really appreciate and support his concerns, but even more so his clothes and sense of timelessness and style.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2016, Day 3

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Womenswear Fashion Week.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Alber Elbaz’ absence could be felt throughout the entire Lanvin show. Like you’d expect when a creative leaves after such a long period of being head designer, Lanvin’s fall/winter collection lacked of a strong vision, some soul, as you will. Femininity (lace, ruffles, shiny satin, bustiers) and masculinity (tweed, checks, tuxedos) came together in a mix of eighties inspired outfits. Touches of velvet and fur added to the richness of the collection. As chunky chokers and mesmerizing metallic earrings (forget that accessorizing rule about never wearing a necklace and earrings at the same time) delivered the strongest statement. The color palette went from pastel like (light peach, lavender and icy blue) to deeper shades (burgundy and deep blue). It made f/w2016 not the most cohesive collection. There was a definite new romantics vibe going on, yet we certainly missed some of Alber’s recognizable touches. Understandably so though, let’s give the new design team some more time.

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