Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris 2019

The models had tattoos reading “Vegan”, the catwalk had love messages printed onto it and on Instagram the hashtag #thereshegrows was trending. With her rain forest conservation project in mind or better said, as a starting point, Stella McCartney sent out belted coats, high waisted cargo pants and structured dresses. A lot of details was put into these coats with multiple pockets, strong shoulders and high collars. Perfect tailoring was alternated with more supple, airy dresses. Accessories in the form of necklaces and belts made of fabric from previous collections were the only things that looked a bit odd, yet gave this collection an extra signature touch. The bucket bags with branded straps will no doubt become bestsellers.  

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Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

Today’s Dior show can be seen as the ultimate style between sportswear and tailoring. Yes, the 49 models looked perfectly dressed, but they still had enough streetcred too. They sported their pleated pants with logo printed sweaters. Suits had stoles/scarves attached to them, which were wrapped around the models bodies (inspired, Kim Jones said, by a 1955 dress from the Dior archive). Classic pants were paired with structured utilitarian tops in the same color palette. Cross body bags and sporty boots added to the urban/youthful feel of the collection. Leopard print details and fur pieces seemed a bit of a distraction, but the collection’s true message came across cleary. Kim Jones has introduced the new way of dressing for men for the upcoming seasons. Not just sportswear, not just suits, but a perfect fresh menswear style approach in between.

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Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

Instead of show music we listened to Dries van Noten’s heroes. David Bowie, Andy Warhol, Yves Saint Laurent, David Hockney, Kurt Cobain and John Lennon all had their say during the show. A show that spoke of suits more than sportswear. Black suits, brown suits, pinstriped suits, heavy printed (a type of psychedelic, tie die print) purple suits. Suits with oversized double breasted jackets (those roomy jackets are going to be a major fw2019 trend). Jackets and coats (and even a navy puffer) were worn with waist belts. The collection felt retro and modern at the same time. Dries his message for fw2019? Dress up and dress your part. Even if your world’s a mess look like you’ve got it together.

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TPS STUDIO: SHOOTING THE BYBORRE LOOKBOOK

Last week our team shot the brand new lookbook for Amsterdam based textile innovation studio Byborre (2010) at our TPS Studio. Not your average, straightforward lookbook shoot, but a very interesting one nonetheless. We photographed both models and some of Byborre’s famous friends in the labels’s new AW2019 collection titled The Layered Edition™. The special structure of the materials, which Byborre developed in partnership with GORE-TEX and The Woolmark Company, required a different approach in terms of backdrop and lighting. So for this shoot we got to think and work outside the box a bit. Below Peter elaborates on the lookbook shoot we had last week and why Byborre and TPS are such a good match.

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IT’S A MATCH
“Borre (Akkersdijk) and I have known each other for over ten years. As I photographed some of his first collections. I always felt Borre was different from most design students and designers. He isn’t focused on just being a designer, he just wants what he’s doing to have a certain relevance, which in my opinion is very refreshing. Like me he studied at the Eindhoven Design Academy, which connects us. Borre is an atypical designer, he’s always pushing boundaries, he is process minded and he is an innovator who continuously thinks out of the box. At TPS we work like that too, which makes Byborre a great match as a client. We all got so much positive energy from our first meeting at the Byborre  workspace we immediately got excited to start working for them. For their collection The Layered Edition™ we’ve now photographed the flats and the lookbook.”

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LOOKBOOK SHOOT
“During the lookbook shoot we shot 24 looks on both models and some of Byborre’s famous friends, family and people they admire. This turned out to be quite a challenge. I would describe the set of the shoot as an organised chaos. But it all turned out alright and we learned so much from doing things differently than we’re used to. Plus, I have to admit generating extra publicity by involving influencers from the cultural scene into the process is a very smart move everyone benefits from in the end.”

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TECH SAVVY
“Byborre is extremely tech savvy. I still can’t get over the things he created with his circular knitting machine and I don’t know any other designer who owns a machine like that. As Byborre works on the frontiers of material development, functionality and aesthetics through engineered knits it was highly important to get the material message across in our lookbook pictures. The volume, structure and color of the garments all had to be clearly visible. Our goal was to make people want to feel the fabric just by looking at the pictures. This required a specific light plan on set, working with spotlights highlighting certain parts of the Byborre designs.”

FUTURE THINGS
“The way I see it Borre has managed to create a perfect balance between being creative and commercial in his way of working in fashion. Besides his own Byborre label and studio he does a lot of research and development for big sportswear brands. This gives him the financial freedom to not have to make any concessions for his own brand. Byborre forms the perfect mix of sportswear and streetwear, it has the right edge, it’s modern, it’s innovative. Borre doesn’t criticize the polluted fashion system but is just showing us how it can be done differently. Therefore I think the future has a lot in stores for Byborre and we’re excited to be part of that.”

Please find the PDF of the lookbook shoot below.

Prada Menswear Fashion Show Milan FW2019

Tonight’s Prada show initially was about the understanding of humanity. And to convey that message Miuccia Prada chose horror movies as the shows theme. From Frankenstein to The Rocky Horror Picture Show. And so the show felt dark and alienated, but in a pretty kind of way. Models wore crazy and colored wigs underneath their hats and caps as they sported a mix of boxy suits and sexy dresses. The utility trend that is now landing in stores was well represented. Large pockets on suits, blouses and even dresses. What made it sexy were the bare shoulders from underneath some of the off shoulder dresses and the multiple belts tied around the waist (for male models too). A dark starting point with quite a seductive outcome.

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Nikkie in Concert: where music meets fashion

Backstage people described the event as Nikkie’s own Victoria’s Secret show, but the show Nikkie Plessen pulled off this Tuesday night, was so much more than just that. NIKKIE IN CONCERT had (mostly) women of all ages going wild on a night filled with performances by some of the best Dutch musicians. Not many womenswear designers can say they filled a concert venue (AFAS) fit for 6000 people with fans and friends of their brand. And not just the line-up (Ronnie Flex, Waylon, Famke Louise, Lil Kleine, Ali B, Jeroen van der Boom, André Hazes and Xander de Buisonjé among others) was mindblowing. The audience filled with Dutch celebs (Martijn Krabbé, Johnny de Mol, John Ewbank), influencers (Noor de Groot, Monica Geuze, Kae Sutherland) and international topmodels like Kate Moss and Natascha Poly was just as impressive.

Anna Nooshin hosted the show, which formed the ultimate blend of music and fashion as models – dressed in the latest Nikkie designs – danced on stage to some of the greatest Dutch hits of the moment. When Waylon came on and performed his version of Michael Jackson’s Billie Jean a Victoria’s Secret inspired scene filled the stage and we got to see even more of Nikkie’s new collection (short skirts, knee high boots and beanies were the main fashion message). Of course in such an enormous venue, with so many great artists performing you can imagine it was hard to focus on the clothes. We’d love to see a few more show pieces next time, but it was a night to remember nevertheless.

If any upcoming designer wants to learn about branding he/she can take notes from what Nikkie is and has been doing for season after season now. Might you wonder if she’s able to pull of something even bigger and better? Just stay tuned and see what the next Nikkie event has in store for us. But for now, just enjoy some of last night’s show a bit more by clicking through our galleries of Show, Model and Celeb images.

Show

Models

Celebs

Couture Trend: Out of the Box

Now here’s a trend you can hardly use as inspiration for your day to day outfits. Although, the true message these designers are bringing across is to think big. When it comes to couture shows there’s no limit to size, shape or color of the designs. And a lot of the creations are exaggerated on all parts. So it was bright colored candy pink at Armani, Giambattista Valli and Schiapparelli. 3D silhouettes at Viktor & Rolf, Alexis Mabille and Iris van Herpen. Fairytale like designs with a big showstopping factor. Out of the box dream dresses we can hardly see being fit into a one. What you can learn from this trend? Use your imagination, even in your daywear dressing. Dream a little and dare to express yourself.

Highlights Paris Fashion Week – Trends SS2019

Nine days of Paris Fashion Week were concluded this Tuesday with big fish Chanel and Louis Vuitton both scheduled on the last day. Nine days filled with highly anticipated shows (Celine) that disappointed more than a few, surprise shows and performances (Gucci’s debut at Paris Fashion Week and Jane Birkin’s performance during the show) the most impressive backdrops (Saint Laurent’s palm trees and the Eiffel tower, Chanel’s beach, Balenciaga’s tunnel that took us to a different dimension), XL shows (Dior) vs. small collections (Comme des Garcons), a big focus on the whole gender blending/neutral theme, but also collections that lacked a big inspiration, statement or political message (Stella McCartney, Louis Vuitton). What an interesting nine days these have been. To sum it all up fashion wise, we’ve filtered out some of the biggest SS2019 trends. So that you can already wrap your head around the idea that you’ll be sporting washed out denim and mesh dresses in less than a year.

Have you read our Milan Trend Report SS2019 yet?

Washed out denim

Mesh anything

Polka dot

Fantasy prints

Strong shoulders

Black blazer

Get away clothes

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Stella McCartney doesn’t have a big, new message for SS2019. Her collection she showed on Monday was basically a presentation of what she does best; making distinctive clothes with a certain cool factor. The first look was a sexy floral printed body suit, the second look a sand colored oversized suit. And so the show went on from flirty skater dresses to tie dye T-shirts, from overalls to slip dresses and a pink colored knitwear looks. No reason, no rhyme, no built up. A few oversized menswear looks in the mix. All in a soft pastel pallet, apart from the bright orange co-ord Giselle Norman wore and the turquoise dress He Cong sported with matching sporty sunnies. Anok Yai looked stunning in a long mint plisse (a definite trend for next year) dress. Tie dye is going to be big next year, if it’s up to McCartney. Other than that you can just rely on her to make you some perfect fits for just about any occasion.

Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Modern female dancers on stage formed the backdrop of today’s Dior collection presentation. Dressed in neutral shaded bodysuits they perfectly blended in with the SS2019 collection of powder hues and earthy tones. And while we’re discussing the show’s theme the clothes seemed like endless variations to ballets costumes. Even the nude footwear was very much ballet inspired. “I wanted to speak about dance with a different point of view. I think that dance and fashion are very close, for they both speak about the body”, Maria Grazia Chiuri stated. And she’s right. Clothes might say something about fashion taste, they might even speak about political issues, but they surely also always portray a certain image of one’s body. Those slender model bodies were perfectly visible in body tight tops and plisse skirts, in draped nude colored dresses, in tailored suit jackets and macramé creations. Almost all looks were worn with a small, delicate and feminine waist belt to accentuate the female body. Some had the CD logo on them as a little branded extra. The logo popped up on bags and bag straps too, but gone were the slogan/logo T-shirts that spread the feminism message so loudly over the last few seasons. Floral wallpaper prints looked dreamy and those handmade macramé details seemed like a lot of work. A structured tulle gown formed the finale piece, a pale yet confident ballet bride on a runway filled with rose petals.

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