First View Milan Womenswear FW2014: Touch me Feel Me

 

The FENDI show, by Karl Lagerfeld, opened with fitted dresses erupting into tufts of fur at their seams. Lagerfeld punned that the effect was a “fur escape”. No escape though when it comes to fur this season. Puzzled we are spotting the overwhelming flood of critique-less fur. Gone are the days of manifest, consideration and reflection. Strong felt when it comes to the multidisciplinary, industrial and less known fashion designers of this era, so little when it comes to the globes powerful fashion stages.

Hairy surfaces are favoured and savoured in many ways this season. The superior quality of Italian craftsmanship demonstrated in pixel patch-working puff and fluff at Fendi. Strolling the Highlands in Max

Mara’s discreet and natural precious knits. Where Just Cavalli rocks in rich tapestry brocades and manipulated hair and fluff patterns.

‘Violets for Your Furs’ was the Billie Holiday’s song that inspired Lagerfeld – cold comfort for our furry friends.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

For ever inspired by their beloved Sicily designers Domenico and Stefano this time pulled from the moment in history when invaders brought myths, legends and thus fairytales to the island. Doing so the show’s backdrop was one big mesmerizing fairy tale wood. Models were dressed as little red (grey and purple) riding hoods sporting large capes with fur trimmed hoodies. Cartoon-y Foxes, owls and squirrels were embroidered onto their clothing, as well as large flowers and keys (to the castle). There were frogs to be kissed. The color palette was warm (purple -amethyst-, ruby, emerald, burgundy, mustard), fabrics were rich and decorated (with beads and sequins) to the max. Attention was in the details, from diamond encrusted gloves to embellished handbags; this was luxury fashion at it’s finest. And though every single piece was beautifully made there were creations for the castle’s servants and there were show stopping princess gowns. One purple, floral printed, sheer dress, another in yellow and the closing look in red were truly magical. Not to mention the grande finale full of glittery Tinkerbell dresses. We’re enchanted..

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2014, Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Salvatore Ferragamo on Sunday was classic with just the right amount of edge and modernity. Massimiliano Giornetti presented sophisticated, deep colored (bronze, green, orange, purple) looks in rich materials like cashmere, leather and fur with brushed plaid details and leopard spots. To make things more interesting he played with those ingredients, dipping leather pleats in metallic paint and giving fur pieces a leather trim. Multiple variations of the cape, sleeveless coats, high collars, accentuated waists, slick hairdos, perfect little handbags, power sunglasses, high-heel riding boots, tights instead of bare legs and the fact that there was not a pant in sight (just dresses and skirts) made the collection extremely elegant. Giornetti wasn’t trying to hard to do something modern, refreshing or edgy; this was classic luxury at it’s best.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Messy buns, black mascara from the night before and comfy, slightly sporty attires; Missoni’s girls were 100% in the relax mode on Sunday morning (and that is just how Sunday mornings should be). “A very feminine girl in men’s oversize outerwear”, was how Angela Missoni described her collection as she sent out loose cargo pants (with large side pockets), shiny waistcoats, sleeveless knitwear and body hugging tops, fur jackets and hoodies came in the liveliest of fall shades. The brand’s signature zigzag came in small and larger forms; displayed on and woven into woolen coats, knitted pencil skirts, different tweed variations, suit jackets and in XL size on a fur top. Designs had geometrically shaped, colorful appliqués too. Nothing to go crazy for right away, yet a typical Marni addition. Gloves, bags and hats gave everything an extra luxurious feeling. Laying in bed all day might be just about anyone’s favorite Sunday activity, perhaps a little lunch would be a good idea.. ‘Cause Those clothes need to be seen!

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

“Amplification, exaggeration, gentle distortion,” Consuelo Castiglioni wrote in her show notes. And exaggerated it was… Furs and feathers to the max, busy prints, bright shades, large glasses, feral hair.. Marni has a lottt going on for upcoming winter. But even though those prints almost hurt our (Sunday morning) eyes and that larger than life spotted fur coat won’t find a home any time soon Castiglioni presented us with lots of solid fall/winter style ideas. She made us think of ruffled dresses and corsets paired with jumpers, she showed sporty neopreen can be sexy and proved bright pink can be ultra chic. The finale of full on fur ensembles and feather (Dutch duck) details might be a little too provocative for Marni’s clientèle, for this show they clearly worked. Besides, in our mind we’re already combining exaggerated bits and pieces from this Marni show and matching those with our everyday wardrobe at home. Mix ‘n match; a fashion motto suitable for any designer’s creations, but particularly with such an outspoken collection as today.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Jil Sander, once again without Jil, proved to maintain it’s strong minimalistic DNA. Clean, pale colored (gray, blue, sage, pink and peach) looks followed each other on a crispy white runway. First a line-up of strong gray woolen coats paired with pleated pants. Then came the sleeveless dresses with folded details. There were boxy suits and high wasted A-line skirts with cashmere turtleneck jumpers. A lime green snake skin bag, colorful brogue shoes and a few sparkly touches at the end briefly interrupted the overall minimal vibe of the collection. According to the show notes the team was trying to portray “the fundamental codes of the Jil Sander label, reinforcing the emblems of the house.” And so they did.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

The idea of today’s Bottega Veneta collection seemed simple. For his first collection in collaboration with Katie Grand Tomas Maier came up with graphic dresses and skirts worn with woolen sweaters. Prints were uneven, just like the geometric satin and leather pieces attached on many of the dresses. Pleats and plisse details were visible throughout the whole collection, creation impressive 3D effects at times. It resulted in a very wearable and feminine collection, with enough refreshing extras to keep us and of course the Veneta woman interested. Not a pair of pants at sight, but who needs trousers when those kind of graphic kneelength skirts are available.

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Sure, minimalistic fashion can be super chic. But there’s nothing wrong with a perfect mix of textures, prints, colors and embroideries, like we saw at Etro Friday afternoon. On the contrary, the show was a feast to watch. Etro may be famous for it’s paisley prints; designer Veronica proved the brand has way more to offer. The clothes had luxury written all over them, with models sporting creations made out of deep colored, rich fabrics. Contemporary looks with a definite vintage touch.  Perhaps those wide legged pants with golden prints looked a little too disco (seventies/eighties) and a brown velvet dress (paired with a waistcoat) is hardly to become a fall musthave, but the rest of the collection had enough modern accents to make it cool. Forget those monochrome printless pieces that have been dictating fashion for the last few seasons; we want paisleys, florals, checks, tassles, shearling, embroideries, fur bags, suede boots and what not.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Donatella said to be focusing more on daywear for this collection. She only sent out four real floor sweeping gowns; the rest was daywear. But, note that we’re talking daywear in Donatella’s book. Which means a parade of asymmetrical figure-hugging dresse, lace up boots, military jackets and sixties inspired coats. Silk and satin were the fabrics of choice, vivid red and petrol blue the colors. Cat-eye sunglasses and bags full of gold hardware spiced up the vampy military looks even more. ‘Made in Italy’, Donatella stressed backstage, although the looks had a sixties London vibe written all over them.

« Previous Page — Next Page »