Proenza Schouler is saying good bye to New York and moves to the fashionstage of Paris later this year. For their fare-well show they wanted to make it a celebration of New York and capture the way they feel about the Big Apple.
That translated into a trove of powerful new iterations of the high-intensity, gritty elegance that has become their signature. Out came a big, boxy outerwear piece, its utilitarian function not at all hindered by souped-up design elements — off-kilter twists, breaks and sometimes, wide, flying streamers proclaiming the brand’s name. Then followed a leather dress, twisted around the body and cinched tightly at the waist, and a cloud of two-tiered ivory flou, almost angelic even atop edgy black shoes. The designers worked bold abstract prints with the tribal resonance they love. Their collaged and layered dresses are wonders of construction and movement, most of them compilations of undulating shapes, color, texture and bare skin.