Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
January 23, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
For fall Van Assche said his primary mission was to combine good tailoring with sportswear. He chose a strong theme to bring those two world together: the army.
Military-inspired looks in army green opened the show. Pleated pants with neat suit jackets, long powerful coats, subtle turtlenecks, a long hooded sweater and some leather jackets looked impressive.
Though the theme could have easily gone darker, Van Assche added white to his fall color scheme and later on some metallic/light grey. Towards the end he even introduced a dove (peace) print, making clear that an army (war) inspired collection doesn’t at all need to look heavy and aggressive.
There was not a look in sight, which you’d hit the gym in. But those officer dress codes did get a refreshing more modern and sportive touch. So in the end the tailoring and the sportswear did meet up, somewhere in the middle.
Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
January 23, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
Tiny waists and broad shoulders; Lucas Ossendrijver definitely renewed the male silhouette for this fall collection. He came up with long loose pants, oversize jackets tossed on the models’ shoulders and what appeared to be boxing boots.
The collection balanced on the fine line between being wearable and being cartoonesk. Yet if you’d take away the extravagant styling of the show most of the designs looked more subtle.
Besides full looks in camel, blue or red, looks with bold stripes and your typical deep red Tartan print were introduced. Still there was plenty of grey and black, but Ossendrijver managed to keep the collection quite light, which is very rare for a menswear winter collection.
It may take a while before your average male guy decides to dress in those black high waisted pants and that tight red and grey sweater. But more accentuated waists for men are becoming a trend, so Lanvin definitely nailed that one.
Paul Smith Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
January 22, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
Bearded shippers, rock stars, college boys and sportsmen all appeared from Paul Smith’s backdrops of waves. Though the designer opted for a nautical theme, the title was Portobello-on-Sea, much more could be found in this collection.
The sportive elements were in the grey sweaters with the neon details, the shiny jackets/sweaters with the busy prints on them and the body warmers. A touch of rock ‘n roll was added with high black boots, long hair, long coats and classic sunglasses. The college kid could look great in those woolen blue suit jackets and fully buttoned blouses.
A bright deep see print, which appeared on a few pants seemed inappropriate for any of those man types. Yet it did add up to the sea spirited feeling Smith tried to convey.
Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
January 22, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
After days of strict, streamlined and conservative menswear the boyish uniform of Raf Simons felt a bit refershing, although it’s kind of conservative too. To the press he said he’d felt like he wanted to change something with the idea of men’s clothes. He’d wanted to bring more energy, more excitement. Odd were the colored locks of hair hanging down the back of shirts, jackets and coats. Once again, Simons played with men’s dressing conventions with suit pants at the knee and styling shirts as outerwear over other shirts. The main statement was oversized tailoring: suit jackets and chunky overcoats. Simons dared to use bold colors too. Chunky waffle-knit sweaters came in mustard yellow, lime green and cobalt blue. There was definitely a street feel in this collection.
Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
January 22, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
That was sa quite disturbing mask the models were wearing at the Walter van Beirendonck-show, especially when you realize the models underneath the white skintone mask were black…. But those confronting themes are familiar when it comes to the Belgian designer. He’s not afraid of some discussion. His show started out with well-crafted, sartorial looks in bold colors and plaids, which gave way to baggy streetwear, including mohair sweaters.
Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
Ann Demeulemeester introduced a new silhouette with new proportions for men. Long shirts, long coats and long wollen jumpers all felt very ‘dressy’. Combined with long boots it made the models look static and strong.
Luckily there was some room for fun as well. Ann came up with some kind of tribal, batik print and used degrade designs throughout the whole collection. The mostly came in hun significant shades, black, grey and white. Yet also a touch of red and blue was added in the mix.
Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
January 22, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
Today Humberto Leon and Carol Lim proved their the right guys for the Kenzo design job. Their debut menswear collection was young, refreshing, well tailored and still had all the Kenzo-aspects in it. A color palette ranging from orange to moss green was their interpretation of the brand’s lively colors. While some subtle medallion prints (on a pair of pants, a jackets, a sweater and a blouse) represented Kenzo’s signature vivid prints.
Especially for a winter collection Leon and Lim’s take on Kenzo felt fresh. Who needs black when you have the perfect burgundy? And why would you opt for white if you can produce the same item in a exquisite shade of camel.
At Kenzo too, the coats were the eye catchers of the show. Although we must say some of those vibrant sneakers kept screaming at us as well…
Comme des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
A bunch of sexless punkers with a touch of Goth; that’s how you’d describe the models walking todays Comme des Garçons show.
The male models walking the show often appeared like girls, due to their crazy black wigs, but also because of the very feminine designs they got put on. They wore tailored polka dot coats, pleated skirts and long tunics. Not to mention the rose print that popped up on some dark colored jackets and pants.
Though the designs were perfectly tailored the image the show portrayed was kind of confusing. Then again, we shouldn’t be to shocked about lack of gender in this collection. Androgyny is a big trend in the international fashion scene right now and Rei Kawakubo was right to jump right into it.
Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
Junya Watanabe is fascinated by all American work wear, and it’s not different with his new fw2012 collection. This time he focused farmers, with the loose fitting jeans, the plaid shirts and leather suspenders. There were also (denim) suits with leather elbow patches and patches of leather and pleads.
Not really the most exciting collection of this week, but surely attractive to some men
Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
Riccardo Tisci’s fall winter 2012 collection focused again at his signature clothes: sweatshirts, T-shirts, leggings and kilts. And again prominent prints and graphic elements, like stars and stripes.
The tailoring was black and red and chic. The designer also played with trompe-l’oeil layers, putting pea coat-like vests over leather jackets or wool topcoats. And the show ended with sparkles. The tops of white shirts twinkled with crystals, while black enamel stars came out over the shoulders of black sweaters.
