First View Paris Womenswear FW2013: Homme/Femme

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No worries, no battles, but the male/female story seems one of this seasons headlines. From “Garçonne”, the boyish look tailor-made for women, to military influences, Bowie androgyny, collegiate prep and just elegant women wearing the pants…

Colors were almost entirely plays on black, in different shades and textures, and with neckties wafting gently, like the soft, full pants. Bespoke tailoring alternates with nonchalance in plus size jackets with cool swagger. Decorative details soften an otherwise severely serious look.

Vanessa Bruno showed the boy stuff in boxy pinstriped jackets; contrast collared shirts and full pleated pants. Raf Simons showed patented perfection with couture class. Dries van Noten, added some collegiate Fred to frilly Ginger, which made a gorgeous cocktail. Lanvin topped youthful innocence on couture looks by adding talkative jewelry.

One thing is clear; no one felt for clashes, this was all love and peace between man and women. This is just the ideal gear for contemporary women; elegant clothes that connect the genders, classic icons of masculinity and femininity, clothes that are comfortable, wearable and decent.

For women well in control of there lives as well as there looks.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took inspiration from Asian temples — Indian, Nepalese and Chinese — for their fall collection for Kenzo.  The theme included opulent fabrics flush with metallic, such as gold jacquard and flocked lamé that looked like crocodile. They decorated outfits with a cool but cheesy eye motif, shown head-to-toe on a tailored jacket, skinny pants and open-toe booties.
Tjhere was a lot of decoration, but the clothes were kept quiet. They were cut with vaguely Asian references —  robe coats; short, precision-wrap skirts, and shirts with crisp, wide short sleeves — worked in understandable silhouettes that are very contemporary.

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Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

No firework at Viktor & Rolf, but a strong collection full with clothes that were accessible for a lot of women. With beautiful legs, that is. Since the biggest part of the fall collection was leaning on short skirts and dresses. It looked young and fresh, almost as if a young girl tried to modify her clothes herself by cutting and ripping it and putting it together again with lace inserts and embroideries. It was a mix of bouncy sportswear, serious power-dressing and modern sculptured silhouettes. The designers sticked to a black-and-white palette and occasionally injected a subtle Sixties London vibe.  Fanciful touches came via overstated bows, from a giant one on the neckline of a white shirt to another on the shoulder of a gown.

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First View Paris Womenswear FW2013: Craft Allure

At first glance serious, plain tailoring reigned the runway offering this season. At second glance it was an ode to artisan-ship. Escaping the rat race to show the it-silhouette,most designers want to be true to themselves. They move back tot where they started and want to show the value of tailoring and fashion. Genuine emotion was fueled into collections where some felt like pure poetry. From rebellious expressiveness, energetic artisan-ship, to inventive and refreshing embellishment. Primal and tribal intensity to cheeky freedom and fun.

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Maison Martin Margiela’s line-up looked like a fresh start, showing expressive crafts carefully embedded in Margiela’s masterful tailoring principles. Dior fused casual flair into a very couture collection by adding a series of chunky craft knits, Dries van Noten was inspired by ballroom dancing and scattered crystals, feathers and flapper fringes. Rick Owens showed rare, but very effective decorative touches that seemed like experimental exercises to explore the ancient crafts of basket weaving.

How crafts add couture allure.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2013 Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

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Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Since Martin himself is no longer on board Maison Martin Margiela has been rediscovering itself. Today’s collection was proof of that as it was not the most coherent line up. Yet the fashion house did present some strong designs that proudly carried the name of the French fashion label. Oversize and menswear seemed to be the red line in the show the houses described as a “rally” in the show notes. Overall, suits, pinstripe waistcoats (and quite a few other ones – patent leather and fur – too). Black and white looks were given a hand painted yellow or pink twist as more color followed on patent orange and red leather and strangely crafted, multicolored mesh tops. The finale of floor sweeping panel dresses that seemed to have some kind of ad texts on them appeared to be a whole other chapter of the Margiela fall collection.

 

 

 

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Yamamoto’s collection on Friday included some of his best ideas and creations put in a new mix fit of clothing for 2013. The designer used eighties different small themes for this show. We spotted workwear, Asian inspiration (kimono sleeves, origami details), arty influences. Lots of black and asymmetry, liked you’d expect. Yet blues, browns touches of orange, blue and purple (as a surprising bright part in the middle of the show) kept the show very much alive. “My role is to get the value of clothing back for everyone: cutting, draping, tailoring. There was no real theme to the collection, I just wanted to make dresses, to tailor and enjoy the value of clothing”, Yamamoto said backstage. And as he felt it was his duty to bring back the value of clothing (that has according to him been gone for a while) he collection may not have originated from a positive point, the overall mood was cheerful. Beautifully crafted creation, perfectly fitting the models’ bodies. No time to look back, the future is bright (orange, blue and purple shaded, that is).

 

Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

It was Geraldo da Conceicao’s debut collection for Sonia Rykiel, since the brand got it’s new owners Fung Brands Ltd. last year. For his first collection he managed to mix Sonia’s signatures with his own skills and preferences. Knitted suits with playful buttons opened the show, followed by a selection of knitted dresses that fully breathed Rykiel. The next black leather, more architectural pieces seemed more of Geraldo’s personal thing yet they were quickly followed up by more knitwear. Casual pieces worn by bra-less models and business chic designs like a baby pink suit jacket and a baby blue ensemble. A trio of printed tunics perhaps looked a bit out of place, yet the finale sweaters (with kisses and flowers) brought back that joyful Rykiel feeling. It might take a while before Geraldo da Conceicaso has fully found the right direction he wants to go with the brand, but he’s on the right track.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

It’s always such a pleasure to see a show of Haider Ackermann. It’s almost like meditation: the slow pace of the models, the sensibility of the clothes, the pureness. Again, Ackermanns guide to his fall-collection was the thin line between strength and fragility.  Tailoring played a major role as did quiet tones of gray, black and white, green. Some of the tailoring was oversized, with full-legged pants and droopy sleeves almost to the knees. The model looked as if they were dressed in their lovers’ clothes. There we also sharper pieces with strong shoulders and defined waists, like the houndstooth military jacket with the collar torn off and the seams left raw, or another jacket in  brown with purple velvet lining its ruffled peplum.

Fur was new at Ackermann, but he used it well. His shearling flight jackets and his collarless beaver-fur coats looked beautifiul.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

 

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