Trend Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Cap Chic

This fall you no longer have to be a skater or high school kid to be able to wear a cap. A casual suit or a bodyfit turtleneck go pretty well with this type of headgear too. Just look at how designers presented this trend on the runway. Mixed with a slim fit shirt in matching shade at Bikkembergs, combined with a navy green turtleneck at Dior, worn in a more obvious way (with sweatpants) at Dsquared and paired up with a black suit at Acne. Leather or woolen caps add a richer feeling to the look. And men might not step into their Monday morning meeting wearing one of these, yet it´s perfect when stepping out of the office. Bad hair day covered and yes, you may, once in a while, wear it backwards!

Trend Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Divided

There’s only so many options to vary with a menswear wardrobe. Yet this season designers found a surprising way of spicing things up. Usual menswear suspects like the suit, the coat and the winter sweater were all made out of different parts. And though that is always the case with fashion pieces, this time all parts were clearly visible on the runway. Most designers worked pieces of leather into their looks. Like a piece of green leather on a Bottega Veneta suit, some crocodile leather on the top of a Calvin Klein sweater, leather sleeves (John Varvatos) and shoulders (Rick Owens, Yves Saint Laurent). Others mixed different types of wool, color and played with heavy and lighter fabrics. A fun way of mixing things up, especially with these thick winter pieces.

Trend Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Checkmate

Farmers, gentlemen and clowns; they all strutted the international catwalks sporting checks. Not your average black and white though; checks and tweeds came in unexpected colors and shapes. Tartan style at Van Beirendonck, Etro and Vivienne Westwood. Country inspired at Burberry and Zegna. Oversize at Browne and Yamamoto.
Opt for a head turning effect in a complete checked suit and matching hat like Browne, Von Assche and Yamamoto. Or work this trend more subtly in small checks (Burberry), perhaps just a modest touch of the print popping from under a sleeveless vest (Dsquared)? Working some tweed or checks into your wardrobe is never a bad idea. Besides, even a checked handkerchief can make you part of this gentlemen’s club.

The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 3

Spotting trends, common threads, strong statements and influences was not an easy task this S’2013 catwalk season. What does this tell us about the present status of fashion? Is this the outcome of the current economic turmoil? Making designers opt once more for carefulness, minimalism and restraint? Does this push immaculate tailoring and supreme crafts? Excitement more hidden in cut and materials then in expressive aesthetics?
Reflecting on this we concluded that there was pure concentration on the making of beautiful clothes rather then strong fashion statements. Today, part 3 of our list of 9 inspiring directions ss2013-collections are taking us:

TIE DYE

Graduated coloring adds an exclusive, crafted and lively aspect to fabrics and garments. Here it reflects many moods. Acid and intergalactic at Missoni, bohemian at Versace, dreamlike at Blumarine, 70s at Jonathan Saunders and poppy at Cristopher Kane. These lovely graded coloring and subtle ombres become classics over time.

PRINT POWER

We DO believe in the power of print. This season they are scarce but smashing. Patterns with heritage and pedigree: inspired by hand pained glazed terra cotta at Dolce & Gabbana, to reworked animal skin classics by Stella McCartney as well as Kenzo. Fresh and modern are the vibrantly printed volants of Peter Pilotto and the wild ink outburst on red by MiuMiu.

 

FRESH STRIPES

Stripes are going to make it BIG! This parade of bold striped dresses breath crisp retro reminiscence yet the designers stated their inspiration was found in more obscure places.

From historic couture at Dior, disco at Jonathan Saunders, Sicilian souvenirs at Dolce & Gabbana, to 60s graphism at Sportmax and glam sports at Michael Kors.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 2

This is part 2 of our list of inspiring directions the new ss2013 collections are taking us.

SHEER LAYERING

When there isn’t the urge to change shape and silhouette, when restraint and understatement reign, interest in intriguing and manipulative fabrics raises. Here the playfulness is not in the cut yet in the cloth. Translucent layers cover simple shapes. Not so much about sexy sensuality but all the more about moderation and adding a faint touch of magic. Stella McCartney, Dior, Sportmax, Lacoste and Givenchy.

JAPONISM

Yoga suits and kimonos inspire minimalist silhouettes. Layered and gently wrapped; reinventing the dress as well as the suit. Subtle origami folds in soft plains with sophisticated shimmer, polished sheen or simply matte surface looks. Padded aspects, square trims, knotted belts and obi’s. At Prada, Lanvin, Mugler, Gianfranco Ferré and Haider Ackermann.

GORGEOUS COLOR

Gucci, Costume National, Dior, Lanvin and Jil Sander show that intense and passionate colour is just part of the message. The silhouette is the big story. As sharp as its shades, these forms are bold, square and boxy. Form fierce symmetry as well as sensual, bare-shouldered asymmetry. Power dressing is not just reserved for suits.

 

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 1

Spotting trends, common threads, strong statements and influences was not an easy task this S’2013 catwalk season. What does this tell us about the present status of fashion? Is this the outcome of the current economic turmoil? Making designers opt once more for carefulness, minimalism and restraint? Does this push immaculate tailoring and supreme crafts? Excitement more hidden in cut and materials then in expressive aesthetics?

Reflecting on this we concluded that there was pure concentration on the making of beautiful clothes rather then strong fashion statements.

We saw lines of models wandering like babbling brooks, very interesting but far from mind goggling. The strongest acts of expressionism where in the sphere of geometrics and linear patterning. An interesting pulse came from textile technology, novel finishing and techno-crafted embellishment. Outspoken silhouettes where most inspired by the Orient, which was a follow up from what started previous seasons, rather then being a novelty. Understated black and white reigned when it came to coloring. And the return of patterning was near to non-existent.

So it will be the high street in desperate need of ways to differentiate, that will fuel the pattern trend, or it will take another season to reflect on it. And let’s be honest … in the context of recent catwalks, the few collection showing pattern, print and decorative accessorizing seemed quiet trivial and out of sink.

The lessons learned where: ‘how to be beautiful’, rather then ‘how to be fashionable’. And what can be wrong with that?

But… after seasons of flash backs and heritage, playing safe and conservatism… aren’t we in need of excitement and entertainment? Isn’t this what catwalk shows should be about? To be honest… we would have loved to see the sparkle of the unexpected.

The fun is, it’s there! Just look at the street photography during the catwalk shows. There the fire of decorative expressionism and eccentricity is burning.  It is all in the mix.

Nevertheless we list you 9 inspiring directions, spotted at the international catwalks of New York, Milan and Paris. The first three are:

OPTICAL STRIPES

Where Marc Jacobs and Moschino show a literary revival of the swinging 60s, Aquilano Rimondi, Costume National and Sportmax add a contemporary twist to manipulative and illusionist black and white geometrics. From neat linear stripes to optical cut, patched and scattered blocks. Alternating contrasts of matte and shine, as well as transparency and opaque.

OPENWORK

There is a massive interest in materials, in techno-crafted embellishment and innovative manufacturing. Sportmax lasercutted hounds tooth patterns where Alexander Wang cuts and carves in more organic ways. Michael Kors punches sail rings and rivets where, Christopher Kane shows spectacular updates of quilting and lace, where, Balmain goes over the top showing glamazones in leather embellished with a layering of techniques.

NEW TAILORING

Works of art or couture mathematics? Costume National shows graphic cuts and sharp asymmetrics, balancing layers and proportions. Balenciaga confirms the important role that the sleeveless jackets will play coming seasons, martial arts reflect in Haider Ackermann’s wrap suits, where Narciso Rodriguez goes classy, Givenchy throws layers and Dior goes for powerful contours.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

 

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, part 6

The last day of their stay in New Dehli India, Dutch Fashion Here & Now organized a workshop catwalkphotography  with Team Peter Stigter. Also the Indigo Embassy popped up hosted by James Veenhoff.

 

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, On the Streets

What are they wearing during India Fashion Week in New Dehli? It looks all different from what we saw in New York, Paris in Milan, but even here people like to dress up. What we liked the most: the young men in skirts and tunics, they don’t look funny at all -actually, it’s very elegant.

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, Frontrow & Afterparty

Who was sitting front row at the Dutch Fashion Here & Now India show last week-end? Plus, who attended the afterparty? Take a look for yourself.

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India, Backstage

Take a look backstage at the show of Dutch Fashion Here & Now that took place this week end in New Dehli, India. Make-up artist Ellis Faas demonstrated her creative skills.

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