By Ivo Wiermans
Lichting 2009 presented the best of each of the 7 Dutch fashion academies: Nathanya Zwart, Erna Einarsdottir, Ratna Ho, Ireneo Ciammella, Kai Salomon, malousebastiaan, Joran de Kok, Bregje Cox, Liesbeth van Gemeren, Aida Saracini, Ann Boogaerts, Marina Krunic, Twan Meijerink and Manon Boertien. Ann Boogaerts won the G-Star Raw Talent Award, a price worth 10.000 euro.
Lichting 2009 turned out to be one of the most spectacular catwalk shows during this season’s Amsterdam Fashion Week. Lichting is a unique platform founded to fill the gap between Dutch fashion academies’ most promising students and the professional fashion industry.
This season’s Lichting show covered the collections of 14 students, 2 of every fashion academy and was sponsored by G-Star Raw. The best designer won a price worth 10.000 euros and a trip to G-Star’s presentation at NYC Fashion Week. Ann Boogaerts of ArteZ won the G-Star Raw Talent Award.
A panel, consisting 4 of Europe’s most important fashion professionals (Wendy Dagworthy, co-founder of London Fashion Week, Garance Doré, writer and photographer, Susanna Lau, editor of Dazed & Confused and Lucas Ossendrijver, designer for Lanvin Homme) chose Boogaarts as best young designer.
All collections captured of-the-moment elements in global fashion. Like the pastel color gradients and oversized pieces with focus on shape. Also deconstruction, showed by studded and bead-covered outfits. Some collections looked like chaotic outfits made from ripped, cut and draped materials.
The best collections were the ones that were least on-fashion, showing something new. Like Ratna Ho’s collection, inspired by the ugliness of tribal tattoos, which resulted in curvy pantyhoses, pleated skirts and tops made of see-through materials. Designer-duo Malousebastiaan chose to use a round shape which doesn’t have a start or finishing point. Round curves were translated into blown-up silhouettes and dresses looked like they were grown organically.
Bregje Cox was inspired by big cities’ super structures and rare etnical images. Cut-open dresses and big mirror elements looked like Asian symbols or an aerial road map.
Manon Boertien used her positive memories of religion and spirituality and sunlight reflecting crystals as inspiration. The outfits in bold shapes and facet-like prints looked truly happy and positive.
Although each member of the panel praised the collections for their high quality, young Belgian designer Ann Boogaerts from ArtEZ was happy to receive the award. Her collection was inspired by Belgian royalty and Dutch artists like Mondrian. There were beautiful geometrical shaped dresses in bright colors like yellow and red. Fine embroidery and stylish hair and shoes made the outfits look royal-worthy. The Dutch national anthem played during the show. Boogaerts seemed to be proud of her being a young Dutch designer.