Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
No layers at the Ann Demeulemeester-show, no poetry, no mixing of proportions. Her ss2010-collection looked simple, sensual and masculine – but very clean and distant as well – with sparkly twinsets, long silken coats, kimono-like coats and simple suits in black and white.
John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The John Galliano-show was the usual spectacle, with beautiful models painted and dressed to resemble anyone but themselves. Napoleon’s rise was the theme of the collection, but it could also be pirates or a weekend at the Sahara. Clothes were transformed, layered, romantic, floating and colorful. Safari-jackets, shirts turned into sarongs, sand-colored suits and frock-coats as the new outerwear of the season.
Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
You can leave it up to the Belgian Walter van Beirendonck to send out a happy show with a clear message. This time it was the Trademark- and Copyright-sign that formed the essence of the collection. He showed them on socks, shirts, jackets etc. Walter look-a-like models were parading in quilted bubbly fabrics, bright colors and swimsuits.
Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Levi’s and Mackintosh were supporting Watanabe, who sent out one of his nostalgic collections full of odd and modern mixes of colors, prints and fabrics. This time he referred to it as ‘snobbish’ , but we saw a rather elegant gentleman in a loose silhouet, techno-fabrics and some nice colors. There were pinstriped nylon parka’s, bermudas, waistcoats with their backs cut out, shirts with a collage stripes and checks.
Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Raf Simons is ready for a new decade and said good bye to the teenage-trip he’s been on from the beginning. He aims at a new man now, and individual who is ready for suits wich are luxe and sober but also likes high fashion items like a knit torso with cloth jacket shoulders. Simons even developed a logo: a snake in an S-shape around an R. Wow, he’s serious now. The snake came back in belts and as a print for sheer tops and trousers.
Yves St Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The T-shirt – one of the most universal pieces of clothes – was the foundation of Stefano Pilati’s collection for YSL. He tried to mix formal with casual in his own way. Pilati elongated the T into long, djellabalike pieces under tailored jackets, or he wrapped it around the body. Of course he played with proportions and showed exploding volumes. Jackets were cut away, low in front, higher in the back.
Hugo by Hugo Boss Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Thank God for Bruno Pieters. He made Hugo by Hugo Boss a cool, avantgarde but still affordable label again. The collection (jackets, trenches, sheer shirts and tight trousers) was in black and white, with some blue and red. The style was very minimal and sometimes icy because of the white, but turned more sophisticated in navyblue en light blue stripes.
Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The ss2010 collection of Jean Paul Gaultier didn’t offer that many news. It started with a graphic black and white part, followed by color. It reminded us of the Sixties, op-art, Courreges. But the show continued in Gaultiers gender game, with guys in bras, bustiers and skirts. Been there, done that, saw it before.
Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Ah, that was a good old Dries van Noten show. Perfect location (the Bourse in Paris), great music (black eyed peas) and a beautiful collection full of contrasts: exotic versus minimal, colorful versus blue, pinstripe versus ikats and high tech versus handmade. Somehow it reflected the mood of these days: holding on to the past and welcoming the future. Dries van Noten returned to the eccentric, ethnic mood that made his menswear always so special.
Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
According to Paul Helbers and his team at Louis Vuitton bike messengers are ‘the gentlemen butterflies’ of the city. Ore maybe he wants them to be. Anyway, to honor those fast flying cool guys Helbers created a collection full of sleek, aerodynamic and athletic wear in high tech fabrics. The result was a contemporary collection that fits into a big mean metropolis, functional jackets in nylon and neoprene, cotton silk leggings, safari-jackets. The catwalk looked like asphalt and Lou Reed was on the soundtrack. Yellow was the color to be and prints looked like urban surfaces. And the shoes! They suggested graffitied glitter. If I were a man…
