Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Junya Watanabe never designed for the mainstream client, but his collection for spring was more extravagant than we’ve seen from him in a while. Cartoonesque figures strutted his runway, sporting bright colored, latex disc shaped clothing, shoes helmets and bright make-up to match. The silhouette, if there was any, was about bare legs and architectonic shapes. Round discs at the shoulders, 3D, origami-like effects on the tops, asymmetric, zipped skirts at the bottoms. Breton stripes and biker jacket influences referred to the designer’s signatures. Other than that it was hard to recognize real wearable pieces. Most looks were real show numbers, belonging in a fashion expo or on stage. Both Gaga and Minaj would be pleased to pull some performance pieces from this collection.

A.F. Vandevorst Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

A female pilot parachuting into unknown territory was the inspiration for Vandevorst’s collection of powerful creations. Designers An and Filip took their theme of choice quite literal with a brown belted jumpsuit (meets dress)an off white/orange number and feather printed designs. In between their s/s looks formed a mix of modern creations and throwback pieces. Especially the floorsweeping dresses with xl trains seemed a bit over dramatic for everyday wear (let alone a bumpy parachute flight). Yet casual pants, white tanktops, belted blouses and knee high suede boots in a palette ranging from army green to bright red will easily match a contemporary woman’s style.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

On Friday the Dior show took place in a new show venue. Cour Carree where Marc Jacobs used to show his collections for Louis Vuitton was the place where history and future met. Raf Simons put his catwalk in the Louvre and by housing it in a mirrored silver box almost made it invisible. Within that box the area was divided into four salons and the floor had futuristic circles of light reflecting on them. The designs too had both historic as well as modern references. And we’re not talking about the fifties or the seventies here, no, Simons took us back a few centuries (18th century). He used references to historic undergarments and took on shapes of hips and sleeves from that same period. He kept things fresh and contemporary nevertheless. Looks in black, white and a splash of pink and yellow towards the end (during a bermudas and long jackets finale) were clean and breathed a chic kind simplicity. Even though colourful embroideries and rows of tiny colored buttons, highly decorated shoes, leather belts and chunky necklaces gave the looks a unique touch. Not to mention those bags, that will do oh so well next season.

Streetfashion Paris SS2015 Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2015.

Peet Dullaert Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Dutch designer Peet Dullaert presented his collection for the second time in Paris.And he continues to balance between boldness and fluidity, glassy accents and geometric lines, creating clothes with a contemporary reality. The designer used fabrics known for their volume, such as plissee, voile and tulle, shaping them to work closely in synergy with the body, yet still allowing free movement. The cut and weave of these fabrics provided a way to honour the female silhouette while creating an effortless construction.

Streetfashion Paris SS2015 Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2015.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Celebrating 125 years of Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz looked at the past. Like one does. He drew from Lanvin archives full of brocades and other rich prints. But he also brought back some of the women who modelled for the brand in the previous years (Lanvin is familiar with putting ‘older girls’ in it’s campaigns). Ladies like Amber Valletta, Kirsten Owen and Violetta Sanchez modelled the festive collection, that began with sensual evening slipdresses and ended with catchy cocktail creations. Quite minimalistic designs at the beginning of the show were given some eye-catching details. Like a series of buttons on the side of a blue gown, like large stitches at the shoulders of another one and like shiny buttons on a double breasted navy jacket. Apart from a few tight creations fits were loose and layered and – more than once – chest revealing. As for the cocktail numbers, lace and mesh were the fabrics of choice, mostly printed and cheerfully decorated by necklaces, clutches and wide belts. A celebration of fashion and femininity, no matter what age. Who’s counting anyway?

Loewe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Our review will follow shortly. For now please enjoy our images.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Surprisingly light was the show Rick Owens presented us with this week. It was (almost) out with the black and in with the ‘colors’. And even though it was just khaki, sand tones and shades of grey, in Owens’ world those are true colors. He used them on his remarkable amount of dresses (structured, strapless, sheer, asymmetrical and printed). Dresses made out of a mix of materials, both heavy and airy that almost appeared elegant. But even though Owens is showing us this new side of hem, there were still enough signature details (white painted faces, heavy cloglike footwear) to make it a signature and tough Owens collection.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

As fashion brands are turning more towards social media (the first brands are advertising on Instagram and Burberry is experimenting with a Twitter buy button) it’s not all that surprising these media form an inspiration as well. And who needs to look at previous decade or go through old archives when you can have an Instagram picture of Rihanna as the starting point of a collection. Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, who is friends with Rihanna, wanted to push the boundaries of sex for ss2015. Something he translated by showing a lot of skin through transparencies and cut outs. His creations paraded by the likes of Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner and Rosie Huntington Whitely were clean and powerful. Pencil skirts, high waisted pants, bandeau tops, sleeveless (tuxedo) jackets and one or two more airy and gracious evening gowns hit the runway. They had stripes and Mondrian-like checks (some of the checks were cutouts), they were tightfitting and sheer. But never did Rousteing take it too far. The clothes may not appeal to just everyone, but he presented the kind of sexiness that fits his target group. The kind of on the edge sexiness his friend and front row guest Kim Kardashian knows how to pull off (in real life and on Instagram).

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