Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

It’s always such a pleasure to see a show of Haider Ackermann. It’s almost like meditation: the slow pace of the models, the sensibility of the clothes, the pureness. Again, Ackermanns guide to his fall-collection was the thin line between strength and fragility.  Tailoring played a major role as did quiet tones of gray, black and white, green. Some of the tailoring was oversized, with full-legged pants and droopy sleeves almost to the knees. The model looked as if they were dressed in their lovers’ clothes. There we also sharper pieces with strong shoulders and defined waists, like the houndstooth military jacket with the collar torn off and the seams left raw, or another jacket in  brown with purple velvet lining its ruffled peplum.

Fur was new at Ackermann, but he used it well. His shearling flight jackets and his collarless beaver-fur coats looked beautifiul.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

 

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

In his second ready to wear-collection for the house of Christian Dior Raf Simons brought art and Dior closer together. You could see it on the clothes with Andy Warhol’s early, sensitive drawings as a recurring graphic. Warhol also echoed in the silvered spheres suspended in the room and the Laurie Anderson soundtrack reflected the right mood. But also Dior and Simons got closer: the Bar jacket was paired with baggy pants in a navy or black denim wool.
The message seemed to be about control. Just look at the way the classic “lady” silhouettes—bustier, full-skirted—were translated into black leather, or the Dior houndstooth was transmogrified into a sexy little bustier with a wrapped silk dress. They’ll likely be the ambassadors for the new Dior.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2013 Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

After a surprise treat of popcorn and a mini bottle of champagne it was showtime for Lanvin. Showing off Alber Elbaz’ many variations to the Little Black Dress the models were fully accessorized. They sported large chain necklaces with the words happy, help and cool as bees and flowers were stitched onto the clothes. Though most pieces were classic ones – the day suit, the fifties cocktail dress, the godet skirt and the corsetlike top – the collection had a young feeling to it. Elbaz may have doubted his position in the current fashion world (with bloggers and editors being all about getting their streetstyle picture taken) it seemed the designer found back the fun in fashion.

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

For his fall collection Peter Copping felt inspired by a seventies Nina Ricci ballet ad. He used the soft side of the world of ballet to create his contemporary yet classic looks. As the first models appeared on the red runway, lit by red lights, walking to the sound of a live piano (by Katia and Marielle Labèque) the right mood was set. Copping’s Parisian chic models looked flawless portraying some of his ultra-feminine silhouettes. They wore pencil skirts and cigarette pants, A line coats and strapless evening gowns in simple (yet perfect) shades of ivory, nude, red and black. Accentuated waists, bustiers, long gloves, perfect red lips and cute headbands brought an extra dose of romance to their appearances. Copping added modern touches in the form of unfinished dress details, visible bra straps a fur lined parka and a few bare bellies on sight. Just to provide the collection from becoming a full on back to the seventies ad time travel.

 

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Owens chose a heavy theme for his fall/winter show. Battle-scarred heroism was the inspiration for his signature big coat, boots and T-shirt and a full range of black and white creations. His pale models with the frizziest hardo’s could be seen sporting kimonos, asymmetric tunics and coats with larger than life stitches (which were in fact created by traditional basket-weaving techniques). Large gloves, high standing collars and a few fur details accessorized the looks. Like so many designers Rick Owens opted for a Japanese influenced collection. Yet he managed to use this popular theme in a very unique way, inspired by his notion of heroic grace under pressure.

 

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2013 Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers were the style-icons Dries van Noten referred to while explaining his collection. For fall 2013 he plays with masculinity and femininity, something he enjoyed in former collections too. That play is a subtle thread through the whole season, Instead of fur Van Noten pleayed with feathers. He mixed mannish white shirts with a navy skirt over gray flannel pants, That sounds rayther boring, but the effect was in the details: a necklet of paste diamonds, a skirt with a trail of ostrich-plumes anchored by crystal. There wwere also chunky knits, cable sweaters, varsity-stripe skirts, brocade skirts and plus-zize overcoats – all looking glamorous.  There was also a sexy vibe, not in your face-sexy but subtle.

 

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear Fw2013

Inspired by the Asgarda tribe, a group of Ukrain warrior women who segregate themselves from the everyday world to become strong and independent the designs indeed seemed to empower as the models wearing them looked tough and confident. They appeared feminine and Victorian in Pugh’s long and lean silhouettes (in shades of black, white, grey and blue) with raised necklines and dramatic floor sweeping skirts. Structured leather and gold embroidered silk looked both Gothic, romantic and futuristic. Simple T-shirt inspired tops with chic pockets (a reference to the Asgarda women) added a new minimalistic approach to Pugh’s line. They formed quite the oppossite of the series of black finale dresses, which got a little more drama with every look. Who would have thought trash bags from a one pound shop could look this impressive?

 

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