Dior Catwalk Couture Show Paris FW2018

The most elegant, that’s one way to sum up Dior’s latest couture collection. Maria Grazia Chiuri sent out the most delicate, elegant and feminine, New Look silhouette inspired designs. Princess dresses made out of luxurious, airy and sheer fabrics. Off shoulder or with tiny straps, cinched by a tiny waist belt, beautifully moving with every step of the way. A wide range of nudes, blacks and some color in the form of an green, an orange and a lilac dress plus a selection of metallic gowns at the end. Chokers, berets, earpieces (in just one ear) and nude colored pumps topped the looks off. A breath taking dream collection so many women will look confident, chic and most elegant in.

Vetements Catwalk Couture Show Paris FW2018

And so Vetements ended up at couture fashion week, which lead to us watching the most streetwise collection this week. Inspired by his youth, growing up in a war-torn Georgia Demna Gvasalia delivered not just a fashionable but more so a political message. One he transmitted through rebellious looking models wearing black masks, hoodies (one with a special cut-out for ponytails), ripped denim and joggers. They wore nude colored tattoo tops, flag printed (with the flags of Turkey and America amongst others) wind jackets and oversized bomber jackets, capes and coats. Their heels had upside down Eiffel towers key ring glued to them as a heel, while sneakers from Vetements latest collab with Reebok had spikes on their noses. There were matching futuristic spiked sunglasses as well, just like chokers and knee high socks. A pretty veiled bride felt like a breath of fresh air after all the harsh- and boldness. Calm after the storm of all that grunge.

 

Givenchy Catwalk Couture Show Paris FW2018

On a reflective almost liquid looking runway in the middle of the formal gardens of the Archives Nationales creative director Clare Waight Keller sent out her latest Givenchy couture collection. An ode to the master of the house, Monsieur Hubert de Givenchy with masterpieces in both mens- and womenswear. Pieces that were beautifully cut, slightly graphic and modern, even futuristic, though they were inspired by the sixties and seventies. “For me, it is always about the difference between masculine and feminine – and I think it was for Hubert as well. When I dig deep in the archives, he had a real masculine sense through the shoulders, and that is part of the language that I am developing”, Claire stated. And so tuxes and dresses alternated each other, forming the ultimate balance between male and female designs. Dresses were mostly cinched at the waist and worn with capes, overcoats and veils. True showstoppers were the crystal beaded gowns. Stunning shades like turquoise, purple and orange popped up throughout the show. Overall the silhouette was long and lean with strongs shoulders, off shoulder designs and asymmetry. With some extra beads, feathers and volume princess Megan Markles dress could have easily fit in. Statement accessories included a silver harness-like top, a chunky choker and a beaded headpiece (worn with matching silver skirt and a pink top). A collection that felt respectful to Givenchy’s founder and not only deserved the round of applause Clare and her team, who all appeared on stage after the finale, received but some special upcoming red carpet moments too.

RVDK Catwalk Couture Show Paris FW2018

Dutch designer RVDK/Ronald van der Kemps message is still the same: the only sustainable way forward is by making the most of what’s in front of you. And you don’t need to know about his stance on sustainability to enjoy his work, but it certainly gives it added relevance at a time where H&M sits on $4.3 billion worth of unsold inventory. Through this iteration of his upcycled collage of vintage fabric finds and unusual materials, van der Kemp zeroed in on the idea of disposable clothes, opposing the paper dresses of the Sixties to the “disposable clothes on the high street.”
He draws together his repurposed material in a joyous clash that imparts a perpetual of-the-moment feel. As ever, he remains undaunted at the idea of offering outré pairings, or of being handed materials others may consider subpar.

Iris van Herpen Catwalk Couture Show Paris FW2018

In a world facing depleted natural resources, Iris van Herpen’s fascinating biomimicry world looks increasingly relevant. As the movement for lab-grown materials continues to gather momentum, van Herpen this season explored synthetic biology and the intertwining relationships between the organic and the inorganic, biology and technology. The designer even had a term for it: “Syntopia.”
As a prelude, she handed the floor to like-minded Amsterdam-based artist duo Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta of Studio Drift to create a kinetic sculpture. Suspended above the runway — and based on the concept of a glass bird — the installation was composed of rows of glass bars suspended by invisible wires that made them move like wings. It made for some novel runway entertainment, but the show really took flight with van Herpen’s creations based on interpretations of a feather’s architecture.
The designer used chronophotography, a technique from the Victorian era that captures movement in several frames, to guide the draping of a garment, breaking the process down to emulate the layering of a bird’s feather on sculpted dresses with undulating hems.
Other looks had an ethereal underwater feel, seen in rippling dresses with a classical allure, and luminous cape gowns in sheer silk organza, their liquid-coated pleats echoing the lines of the kinetic installation.
The Syntopia theme also played out in a series of gray coats and dresses in laser-cut wool fused with sections of intertwined digitally designed and traditional weaves, fringes of leather tassels swinging from the hems.

Menswear Trends Spring/Summer 2019 – Paris Recap

Paris menswear showed some super relaxed styles for SS2019. Loose pants, unbuttoned shirts, suits worn over bare chests, a hand in the pockets kind of appeal. Looks that breathe careless summer vibes. With pastel shades and an overdose of orange making up for a mellow SS palette. Guys don’t even have to worry about bringing a bag or backpack, if it’s up to Lanvin, Junya Watanabe and Louis Vuitton they’ll be carrying their belonging on their body in fashion’s latest wearable luggage (or one of the many vests with multiple pockets – another trend – we saw). Sportswear is still widely represented, but we’re slowly moving onto styles that are more relaxed, more elegant even. In other news: logomania (Fendi’s current main focus), cross body fanny packs, kimono style jackets and cowboy boots are hot for summer as well. Check out our trend galleries below to discover the styles for Spring Summer 2019 as presented in Paris.

Relaxed and revealing ; suits worn with nothing underneath them at Acne, Armani, Dries van Noten

No bags needed. Wearable luggage at Lanvin, Watanabe and Louis Vuitton

Say goodbye to your skinny jeans; relaxed, loose, billowing trousers are the current trend. Wide leg pants at Lanvin, Louis Vuitton and Issey Miyake

The shirt comes in many shapes and sizes for SS2019. Oversized, sheer, striped, long and relaxed, formal and tight as aseen at Marni, Dior, Ann DeMeulemeester, McQueen

An ultimate chic summer shade; head to toe orange at Hermes, Dries van Noten, Kenzo, Acne and MSGM

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