Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Jean Paul Gaultier’s collections seemed to be ‘best of’ collections for the last few seasons. The talented designer mostly celebrated his biggest success designs, like his signature trenchcoat, the Breton stripe, pinstripe, the corset etc. His shows with guest appearances of Madonna and Dita von Teese were true spectacles, yet new trends, hypes or refreshing ideas seemed missing. Perhaps a run up towards this weekends’ show, his last prêt-à-porter show, described by many as the end of an era. Jean Paul Gaultier, unlike some of his fellow designers, knows when to stop and he sure went out with a bang. No ordinary last runway show, but a beauty pageant was the setting for his grande finale. ‘Élection​ de Miss Jean Paul Gaultier 2015’ was divided into sections including the designer’s most recognizable work and some new side stories. A start of black and white tailoring followed up by colorful sportive and printed creations. Then some glittery ensembles, scarf printed designs, patchwork denim and shiny, streetwise gold. Some models were even dressed up as fashion’s most famous figures like Grace Coddington, Carine Roitfeld and Suzy Menkes. What an honor! And as if they were strutting the real streets models carried phones, umbrellas, flowers, footballs, cans of food and dogs. Some ‘older girls’ paraded in a few black outfits as tuxedo variations made their appearance. Mexican wrestling ladies with an attitude formed the finale of the show. And when Jean Paul Gaultier himself entered the runway wearing a ribbon stating ‘L’enfant terrible’ it was cheering and smiles everywhere. This was JPG prêt-à-porter.

Comme des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

A sea of red everywhere we could look. Choosing roses and blood as a theme Rei Kawakuno decided to stick to one color of poppy red. Different textures, structured shapes and extraordinary silhouettes created enough variation in the collection though. Fabrics being shredded, fringed, slashed up and raw edged. This were not clothes designed just to look pretty or set trends in. The designs somehow breathed some of the difficult issues happening in the world right now. Prettiness versus chaos and violence, roses versus blood. Kawakuno gave us all something to think about and not just whether we’ll be sporting shorts or culottes next spring.

Viktor&Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren choose activewear as their inspiration, though worked it with their own irreverent touch. Several remakes of Olivia Newton-John’s ‘Physical’ were on the soundtrack and punctuated their theme.

The duo played on the idea with biker shorts and slouchy pants. Theye were paired with mesh tops in upbeat floral prints. These looks riffed on traditional shirting, but were ruched, tweaked and cut together in an asymmetric way.
Playful touches were subtle, as in the way Horsting and Snoeren reworked tank tops, including one with an additional cross strap that added a graphic touch and cutout to the casual staple.

Streetfashion Paris SS2015 Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2015.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Our review will follow shortly. For now please enjoy our images.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

It wasn’t just his use of colors or the models’ pixie blond wigs, Haider Ackermann’s collection overall looked fresh. In shades of lavender, ivory, nude and blue the designer gave his long, lean, sharp and edgy signature style a subtle update. With an absolute ease models worked a pink pants and grey sweater combination as well as layered white tuxedo jacket look, a lavender jumpsuit and a number of silky, pajama inspired (but without the paisley print) suits. Those were the definite, elegant highlights of the collection as a number of wrinkled, ruffled, cropped tops seemed to be trying a bit too hard. Belts stressed the feminine shapes and those light strappy heels were absolutely refined.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Junya Watanabe never designed for the mainstream client, but his collection for spring was more extravagant than we’ve seen from him in a while. Cartoonesque figures strutted his runway, sporting bright colored, latex disc shaped clothing, shoes helmets and bright make-up to match. The silhouette, if there was any, was about bare legs and architectonic shapes. Round discs at the shoulders, 3D, origami-like effects on the tops, asymmetric, zipped skirts at the bottoms. Breton stripes and biker jacket influences referred to the designer’s signatures. Other than that it was hard to recognize real wearable pieces. Most looks were real show numbers, belonging in a fashion expo or on stage. Both Gaga and Minaj would be pleased to pull some performance pieces from this collection.

A.F. Vandevorst Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

A female pilot parachuting into unknown territory was the inspiration for Vandevorst’s collection of powerful creations. Designers An and Filip took their theme of choice quite literal with a brown belted jumpsuit (meets dress)an off white/orange number and feather printed designs. In between their s/s looks formed a mix of modern creations and throwback pieces. Especially the floorsweeping dresses with xl trains seemed a bit over dramatic for everyday wear (let alone a bumpy parachute flight). Yet casual pants, white tanktops, belted blouses and knee high suede boots in a palette ranging from army green to bright red will easily match a contemporary woman’s style.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

On Friday the Dior show took place in a new show venue. Cour Carree where Marc Jacobs used to show his collections for Louis Vuitton was the place where history and future met. Raf Simons put his catwalk in the Louvre and by housing it in a mirrored silver box almost made it invisible. Within that box the area was divided into four salons and the floor had futuristic circles of light reflecting on them. The designs too had both historic as well as modern references. And we’re not talking about the fifties or the seventies here, no, Simons took us back a few centuries (18th century). He used references to historic undergarments and took on shapes of hips and sleeves from that same period. He kept things fresh and contemporary nevertheless. Looks in black, white and a splash of pink and yellow towards the end (during a bermudas and long jackets finale) were clean and breathed a chic kind simplicity. Even though colourful embroideries and rows of tiny colored buttons, highly decorated shoes, leather belts and chunky necklaces gave the looks a unique touch. Not to mention those bags, that will do oh so well next season.

Streetfashion Paris SS2015 Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2015.

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