Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

JPG was not just a womenswear show, the designer showed menswear and kids creations too. In fact the event went way beyond a simple fashion show. We were invited into Gaultier’s galaxy and flew to the moon and back in fifteen minutes. On our little trip we spotted guys and girls from outerspace rocking 3D hooded tops with metallic details, skinny leather pants, quilted satin skirts, high collars, organza layers, lots of zippers and fur details, all in a shade of grey/greenish (like the show area). When the Mohawk man in his tartan skirt appeared the collection came slightly more towards earth (down to earth it never got). Biker jackets, leather skinny pants, short trenchcoats, flared skirts, lots of tartan prints, stripes and a wide selection of looks that had the British flague printed all over them. All in exaggerated proportions with lots of zippers and the same unearthy kind of styling. Futuristic looks for young and old. But most of the hyper modern looks seemed mostly suitable as a stage attire for JPG’s front row guest Rihanna.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

Busy printed, bright colored and architecturally shaped; Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s collection for Kenzo, inspired by the movie Mulhulland Drive in a nutshell. “Wild at heart and weird on top”, the designers called it and really, we couldn’t come up with a better description. Prints looked animal inspired, yet weren’t. The color palette had warm shades of red, gold and purple it in, as well as different hues of (fresh) green. The silhouette switched between long and lean and structured (flared skirts and 3D coats). Some looks appeared minimalistic, others over the top. Peplum jackets, tailored waistcoats, high waisted pants, jumpsuits, strapless (apron) dresses, biker jackets and flared dresses, mostly created out of real winter materials like heavy wool and thick rubberized leather were all in the wild & weird mix.

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2014, Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

Monster. That’s the word connected to the new Comme des Garcons-collection. Kawakubo’s green-lipped models plodded by ominously trancelike, arms bound and faces sometimes obscured, encased in piles, piles and more piles of thick, undulating padded knits, their bodies mere foundation for misshapen masses of woolen darkness and multiple sleeves. In show notes, Kawakubo said: “It’s not about the typical monster you find in sci-fi and video games. It’s more about the craziness of humanity, the fear we all have, the feeling of going beyond common sense, the absence of ordinariness, expressed by something extremely big, by something that could be ugly or beautiful.”

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

Long lean silhouettes in a palette of grays, taupes, greens and browns awaited us at Ackermann. Designs with which the designer tried to portray gracefulness through their masculinity. And so models sported gray suits with long sleeves and low V-necks. They wore skinny velvet and leather bias cut pants with short structured jackets. Floor sweeping woolen coats and dark, lean turtle neck dresses belted around the waist. If the designs and the models’ expressions didn’t breath enough carelessness, it were the hands in those pockets that added to the feeling the collection, and perhaps Ackermann himself, was at ease. Creations may have started from a menswear point of view; worn by those graceful models, looks were sophisticated and tough (especially those zip-front jackets) even sporty at times, yet never too masculine. A hounds tooth print used on the thickest kind of wool looked perfect for winter and particularly beautiful on a maxi dress paired with a black top. A sober collection with just enough fresh influences to get us excited. Simplicity at it’s finest.

First View Paris Womenswear FW2014: Rave!

Great to see some power and vibrancy coming to stage. Where glamour, sportswear and technology meet, energy sparks and flickers. Demure, slightly unhinged optical illusions and psychedelic swirl in hybrid cloths coming straight from the fashion laboratory. With swirling spirals, mish meshed two-dimensional flowers – all flavoured with unexpected elegance.
Dries van Noten is inspired by Bridget Riley, an English painter who is one of the foremost exponents of Op art. The most optical and delirious patterns where inspired by her works, that had a disorienting physical effect on the eye. This art part being whole-heartedly alternated with true fashion icons – as brilliant flat flowers, supersize 3-D corsages and chic sliver shoes.
At Balenciaga texture is the story. Referencing American sportswear in a playful and experimental way. Re-imagined cabled knits are laminated with latex and bonded with leather. Hefty zippers crisscross jackets and pants.
Fashion with a bold, cartoonish edge and a healthy touch of humor.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

Viktor & Rolf dedicated their FW14-collection to the gray mélange knit V-neck sweater. Yet as normal as a gray V-neck might be, the Dutch duo turned out some peppy interpretations, from the blanket-like smock and tank dresses that opened the show to the bedazzled sweaters with asymmetric peplums similar to ones they showed in latex during couture.

Abstractions on the sweater were often striking, particularly V-necks as trompe l’oeil prints on velvet tops. Free-floating panels of gray felt on georgette were arranged to mimic twinsets — a nifty effect. There were flashes of sky blue and orange, plus a groovy white mesh minidress fronted with knit panels and a strip of crystal embroidery. A longer version of the latter style also came in gray.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear, FW2014

We started our morning with an all black Watanabe collection (including the strangely cut black wigs the models wore). Dark it was, dull not at all. With every single look the designer managed to portray his strong craftsmanship. He introduced round (and rectangular towards the end) shaped patchwork details and gave his creations a 3D effect by layering multiple textures on top of each other and bundling woolen, leather and fur pieces of fabric. Sequined pieces were in the patchwork mix too, followed by architectural Michelin-like coats, one could live in. Long dresses with straps of ribbon attached vertically onto sheer fabric formed the finale of what appeared to be clothes for a night out. Some looks might come across a little too bizarre for hitting your average night club, although seen independently, without the extreme show styling, some of the tops or bottoms could definitely work in any metropolitan city.

Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

A sober collection which had British tweeds as a starting point welcomed us at Maison Martin Margiela. First off was a long grey tweed coat, followed by a camel colored sleeveless ensemble. There was a black/brownish tweed suit with strong shoulders and a navy shaded pleated tweed dress worn over a suit in the same color. Midi skirts, overalls and perfectly pleated pants and what looked like a fifties inspired tailored dress were sent out. The focus was on the models’ waists, which was accentuated by small tied leather belts (in camel, red and black). Oh and they sported leather boots, bags and collars too. On perfect pleated pants models sported feminine lace tops, thick Nordic sweaters (again with strong shoulders) and strapless suit jackets. Masculine inspired, but a perfectly feminine collection all together.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2014, Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

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