Commes des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

Rei Kawakubo always have been part of the most fearless designer pact. And that’s what she showed today, adding another show in her range of extremely challenging and extravagant collections. Will we see anything recognizable as clothes? Not much. It was big, weird, in-your-face and anything but commercial. We were looking at monumental sculptural creations in deep and icy blues, based on her theme ‘blue which’. But is it a good or bad which? We weren’t sure. The big red plasticised afro’s covering the models faces, and black painted doll lips were kind of frightening. Same goes for the voluminous garments, that seemed to be a lot of everything, but we were actually looking at a black large coat with white cotton ruffles all the way down the front, a black shiny velvet coat, a pleated black wool and velvet coat-dress or an ice blue and navy dress with exaggerated sleeves. It was the cascade of marabou feathers that gave the harsh looks a softer and more playful touch. The idea behind all those layers and volumes was turning the clothes into a refuge from the world in times of crisis; a place where we can safely bury ourselves and where we can be who we want to be. When we have such a space in which to reflect, we remember who we are and what we value. Something Rei Kawakubo knows by heart. It may not be commercial and wearable, but Commes des Garcons has grown against all odds into an independent worldwide multibrand.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

From what planet did these models came from? Or is this future Africa? We weren’t quite sure. The collection, which was represented at the Paris museum of the history of immigration, showed us oversized neckbands, wild animal (lace)prints on dresses and a whole range of beautiful bold colours: bright yellow, royal blue, olive green, orange, white. It definitely felt fresh en summery. The animal printed capes hanging over their shoulders and the voluminous draping and folding around the body, we would almost forget we were still in Paris. Although the cornerstone of the collection was the shirtdress, seen in almost every look, we were slightly distracted and still in awe of the spacious head creations (could this be the avant-garde sister of Marge Simpson?) and futuristic tribal jewellery. The big rubber belts and hoops around the models necks, XXL bracelets anchored the sleeves of some shirtdresses or a harness around the chest made out of black patent leather. Although it wasn’t quite clear what the exact message of this collection was, it was quite refreshing to be looking so much forward in time, instead of looking on history repeating itself over and over again. To quote Anna Wintour in The September Issue: “Fashion isn’t about looking back. It’s always about looking forward.”

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Ask bad girl gone good and Dior muze Rihanna to come visit your show (and hoping she’ll be on time) and you know it will get crazy. And so it did. The paparazzi was all over her, while she was attending the red carpet in a pale pink oversized coat from the Haute Couture Fall 2015 collection.

But equally so important was the palpable question that hung above everyone’s head: What kind of exterior would Raf Simons come up with this time? It was everything to express a spring season in full bloom: a sea of blue posies against a crispy white backdrop. Although ‘the sun’ wasn’t properly positioned in the sky, it gave us the first tingles of spring. And it got even better when the models walked down the runway. The collection had to be simple and calm. Drifting away from the embellishments, bright colours and classic hourglass dresses. And thus he presented us ultra wearable clothes; little shorts, cute tops, scalloped hems, chiffon and pleats, smart tailoring, thrown-on parkas and a mainly black and white colour scheme. And if you looked really closely you could see the tight scarves and chokers, with jewels and metal tags, that nodded back to ‘1947’, the date when Dior presented its revolutionary New Look collection for the first time. Not to mention those bags, that got us women trembling for some Dior in our closets. Previous collections may have been more revolting and spectacular, but never underestimate the power of simplicity and calmness. We have this feeling this was probably the much needed silence before the shopping storm.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

If punk ever had a soft side, Haider Ackermann showed us all how it would look like. Starting with the models’ hair that had touches of the brightest sky blue, anise green, orange, pink, and lavender strands, attached with safety pins. Colored hair is still a big trend in the land of bloggers and showbiz, so score! As bright as the models locks, as bright colored were the lighting and the clothing. Ackermann’s birds of paradise featured strong statement looks (“for a strange world” as the designer stated) in a range of rainbow-y shades styled off with black. Like a pair of fringed pastel yellow pants worn with a velvet mint green jacket and zebra shoes. Or a pair of bright (almost luminescent) yellow pants paired with a cropped blue biker jacket and a army green overcoat. Pieces of polka dot lace, fringes and ruffles in the mix. Details that added to the soft side of the collection as heavy leather and shiny silk, chiffon blouses and low slung pants formed the ultimate balance. Styling twists like tucked up tuxedo sleeves, touches of sheerness and nudity, velvet belts, pointy boots and fringed scarfs added to the coolness of the looks. Let bright colored troll hair and matching velvet tuxedo jackets be next summer’s dresscode!

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

A big relieve or just a big celebration of fashion? Either way Alexander Wang danced his way on and off the runway after he presented his third and final Balenciaga collection. Held in an ivory colored churched, with matching carpet and a long pool dividing the runway, the show was filled too with just one shade of dreamy white. From the slouchy pants to the lace dresses and yes even fanny packs, flower embroidered lace slippers and bras came in off white. A collection that had femininity and romantic written all over it. Silk and lace, ruffles, ribbons and rose paddles shapes all included. Even though, if you looked closer, some outfits weren’t even all that elegant and were actually a perfect match with the show’s rap music. But no matter how sporty, loung-y or casual the piece Wang gave it a tender touch. In real life a bit more shaping and tailoring might be useful to portray the female body in it’s best way (even some of the models couldn’t pull off the shapeless bras and saggy pants). But we got the idea. Natural, serene, at ease yet powerful. A step out of Wang’s comfort zone. But when there’s nothing to loose, why not take a risk?

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear, Day 3

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Valentino dress, that vintage Dior or their latest Celine skirt? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

It’s probably the most talked about show this fashion week episode. Because what happened at the Rick Owens show? Did we just really see women on women? How? And why? It’s definitely not the first time Owens presented us the unexpected, remembering the African-American dancers or the penis exposure. On Twitter and Facebook it was exploding (#rickowens). Cosmopolitan magazine headlined ‘Models 69 on the runway at Rick Owens’ and The Guardian called it ‘human backpacks and full-frontal nudity.’ What could this possibly mean in this crazy fashion world?

Women upside down, doubling up on limbs, their bodies harnessed to other women. It looked pretty weird and intense. No wonder Owens chose gymnasts and dancers to be his models. Soon enough we came to understand it was all about women nourishing and supporting each other. There was the idea of birth, of women creating new life. Translating this into a sartorial way, Owens is referencing what Leigh Bowery did decades ago, in 1994. It may be old hat, though still enough to get people completely surprised. But through all the theatre, we saw some actual fashion we really liked. The asymmetric lines and draperies against the sharp, cut-away coats. Loose or body-con sportswear against soft fabrics like silk and organza. And his signature black and white color palette was expanded with quite some beige, hints of bright orange and silver and grey tones. The American-born, Paris-based designer may be known for his radical collections and unexpected show elements, but his sense of fashion is still with a capital F.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Alber Elbaz is always the one to look back and compare. We used to be designers. Now, we’re image-makers”, he said pre-show. He had been struggling to work through the puzzles confronting designers in a digital age. What is relevant today? Is it need or provocation? What is the role of fashion as entertainment? And, most relevant to his show: Can fashion and theater coexist? In turned out they can. At least for today, cause Elbaz staged his SS2016 show as a theater, placing the Lanvin name up in glittering lights at one end of the runway. His theater line up was as diverse as could be. All looks presumable festive, yet ranging from masculine tot seductive (although the nude corsetry had us fooled once or twice), from glittering to bold printed, from floor sweeping to cocktail. Not necessarily in that order. There was lace, there was tule, the was satin and jacquard. Not to mention we could double check on some SS2016 trends like the loose straps, the slip dresses, more is more. Now the dress code might have been festive, not flawless. Sharp cuts and tailored fits had Lanvins signature deconstructred details, undone seams, threads, frayed ends (a faux effect; real raw edges don’t hold up to wear, he cautioned) and frills all over them. Elbaz can wonder and complain question all he wants. But it seems his clothes don’t’always need a up to date theme to deliver a message. The feel good, dressed up, seventies mood was written all over them.

Vionnet Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Calm and charm was the mood. Long and lean were the silhouettes. Light and airy the materials. Evening wear and black tie the dress codes. Goga Ashkenazi who revitalized Vionnet with her take on SS2016 made it clear the brand won’t be a go to label for any 9 to 5 look. An olive green poured pleated chiffon gown and a crafted silver-ish number that followed three looks later were the breathtaking highlights of her collection. Dedicated to woman as nymph the dreamy clothes felt almost ethereal. Yet sporty touches, a number of pants, cris cross lines and T-shirt dresses kept our feet right at the ground. Golden accessories curling up to the models bodies like little twigs appeared so very graceful. Let’s just hope the everyday woman will have plenty of occasions to wear these creations to, so the brand new Vionnet boutique opened in Paris this week can actually do some business.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Shortly after H&M released it’s campaign images for the upcoming Balmain x H&M collection it was time for designer Olivier Rousteing to shine with his SS2016 collection for Balmain. And like many designers who collaborated with the Swedish fashion brand before, Rousteing too was influenced by it. Preparing a capsule collection for H&M had encouraged him to examine what he stood for. So today’s spring/summer show was as close to his core as a Balmain designer as it gets. Resulting in a extraordinary line-up of attention grabbing, figure hugging and jaw dropping outfits. Sensuality was in every fiber of this collection and like real African amazons – high pony tails, statement chandelier earrings, accentuated waists and necklines – the diverse models strutted their stuff. Oranges, mustards, blues and greens felt earthy as the collection appeared lighter than Rousteing’s previous ones. Yes, there was still a lot of craftsmanship in the macramé (big trend for SS2016), yet the pieces seemed less stiff and rigid. Sheerness, cut-outs, see through and peekaboo added lightness as flounces gave the designs extra fluency.
An army of supermodels on the runway (including ‘our’ Doutzen, but also some modeling’s rising stars and Instagram queens), a Michael Jackson soundtrack, VIP’s (including Gigi Hadid’s beau Joe Jonas and Kendall Jenner’s mom Kris) and all the extra H&M collaboration buzz. If it wasn’t for those head-turning looks, the Balmain show still was the hottest ticket of the week (so far).

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