Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

No decoration, no color, no print. Just the soul of Versace: silhouette and cut. That was the message of Donatella Versace for her FW 2015 menswear collection. She envisaged the collection as a kind of ground zero, leveling the playing field for the future. It was certainly a step away from excess and ambiguity and gladiatorial camp as we have seen many times.

The color palette was a banquet of soothing neutrals. For all the designer’s insistence on cut, it was softness that dominated. A hooded mink coat and a Mongolian lamb backpack were its most extreme manifestations. Otherwise, jacquard-ed blousons and parkas had the comfy look and feel of blankets. The body-conscious cashmere knitwear in long cabled cardigans and even longer rib-knit tops, layered over leggings was lean and athletic. It took on an impressive masculine heft with oversized outerwear.