Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

“Amplification, exaggeration, gentle distortion,” Consuelo Castiglioni wrote in her show notes. And exaggerated it was… Furs and feathers to the max, busy prints, bright shades, large glasses, feral hair.. Marni has a lottt going on for upcoming winter. But even though those prints almost hurt our (Sunday morning) eyes and that larger than life spotted fur coat won’t find a home any time soon Castiglioni presented us with lots of solid fall/winter style ideas. She made us think of ruffled dresses and corsets paired with jumpers, she showed sporty neopreen can be sexy and proved bright pink can be ultra chic. The finale of full on fur ensembles and feather (Dutch duck) details might be a little too provocative for Marni’s clientèle, for this show they clearly worked. Besides, in our mind we’re already combining exaggerated bits and pieces from this Marni show and matching those with our everyday wardrobe at home. Mix ‘n match; a fashion motto suitable for any designer’s creations, but particularly with such an outspoken collection as today.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Jil Sander, once again without Jil, proved to maintain it’s strong minimalistic DNA. Clean, pale colored (gray, blue, sage, pink and peach) looks followed each other on a crispy white runway. First a line-up of strong gray woolen coats paired with pleated pants. Then came the sleeveless dresses with folded details. There were boxy suits and high wasted A-line skirts with cashmere turtleneck jumpers. A lime green snake skin bag, colorful brogue shoes and a few sparkly touches at the end briefly interrupted the overall minimal vibe of the collection. According to the show notes the team was trying to portray “the fundamental codes of the Jil Sander label, reinforcing the emblems of the house.” And so they did.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Forget clean and simple fashion; more is more if you ask Roberto Cavalli. And that does not only concern his clothing… The designer created a large ring of fire as the set for his fall/winter show around which the models strutted their stuff. With the first look coming up the tone was set for an animalistic over the top collection. Slim snakeskin trousers, a leopard printed blouse, a large fur stola and a golden lion head on a tassle necklace. Long and lean fringed (flapper) dresses and tight pants followed, worn with lots of fur and similar jewelry. Statement prints, studs, beads and sequins made every look extravagantly glamorous. Attires the average woman won’t soon be walking around in. No, A-listers and real housewives of Beverly Hills will probably still be Cavalli’s target group, although he stated this week he wished fashion was “less tied to all those stars” and that he wouldn’t be dressing anyone for the Oscars. Oh well, as long as business is doing good and he doesn’t turn into a copycat like he accused Michael Kors to be.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

The idea of today’s Bottega Veneta collection seemed simple. For his first collection in collaboration with Katie Grand Tomas Maier came up with graphic dresses and skirts worn with woolen sweaters. Prints were uneven, just like the geometric satin and leather pieces attached on many of the dresses. Pleats and plisse details were visible throughout the whole collection, creation impressive 3D effects at times. It resulted in a very wearable and feminine collection, with enough refreshing extras to keep us and of course the Veneta woman interested. Not a pair of pants at sight, but who needs trousers when those kind of graphic kneelength skirts are available.

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Sure, minimalistic fashion can be super chic. But there’s nothing wrong with a perfect mix of textures, prints, colors and embroideries, like we saw at Etro Friday afternoon. On the contrary, the show was a feast to watch. Etro may be famous for it’s paisley prints; designer Veronica proved the brand has way more to offer. The clothes had luxury written all over them, with models sporting creations made out of deep colored, rich fabrics. Contemporary looks with a definite vintage touch.  Perhaps those wide legged pants with golden prints looked a little too disco (seventies/eighties) and a brown velvet dress (paired with a waistcoat) is hardly to become a fall musthave, but the rest of the collection had enough modern accents to make it cool. Forget those monochrome printless pieces that have been dictating fashion for the last few seasons; we want paisleys, florals, checks, tassles, shearling, embroideries, fur bags, suede boots and what not.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Donatella said to be focusing more on daywear for this collection. She only sent out four real floor sweeping gowns; the rest was daywear. But, note that we’re talking daywear in Donatella’s book. Which means a parade of asymmetrical figure-hugging dresse, lace up boots, military jackets and sixties inspired coats. Silk and satin were the fabrics of choice, vivid red and petrol blue the colors. Cat-eye sunglasses and bags full of gold hardware spiced up the vampy military looks even more. ‘Made in Italy’, Donatella stressed backstage, although the looks had a sixties London vibe written all over them.

Sportmax Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

The heaviest fabrics, yet not necessarily the warmest looked popped up at Sportmax today. The Italian fashion house presented an animal inspired (leopard prints, snake leather and a wide variation of fur accents) collection with perfectly tailored coats, sophiticated skirts and elegant, sleeveless dresses. Doubles breasted suit jackets seemed menswear inspired and a few fur creations appeared kinda boxy, but other than that Sportmax F/W2014 with a strong focus on the waist, peplum accents and deep cleavages was a celebration of femininity. Touches of red and blue and an ultra bright paint spatter print brought the pieces to live and that multi colored type of fur definitely made up for some show stopping looks.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

In the same spirit as the menswear show in January Miuccia Prada presented her f/w2014 womenswear collection on Thursday (okay..and a few menswear looks shown by a selection of male models). As an orchestra was playing and actress Barbara Sukowa was singing we were once again wowed by Prada’s girls. Natasha Poly (back on the runway since giving birth last year) opened the show in a black satin dress and bright red boots. Followed by girls in sheer dresses (feminine) with boxy coats (masculine) full of shear ling details and woolly edging. Things that, in Miuccia’s words, look either sophisticated or plain vulgar. The designer made lots of room for color; purple, red, mustard, gold and cognac in the mix with darker tones. They were used on bold seventies prints, inspired by the 1972 movie The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant. Skinny silk scarfs (which had a tie feeling), sandal-like shoes and chain shoulders bags were the collection’s accessories. Another refreshing collection from Miuccia’s hand. Let’s hope she will have enough time left to keep designing in the future, now that she’s also the company’s Co-CEO.

Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Just as Eastern inspired collection themes seem to be fading away, Anna Molinari came up with an Asian inspired collection this morning. She sent her models out on the runway sporting, shiny satin creations, with eastern inspired floral prints and kimono sleeves. Not only was the satin shiny, the designer played with metallics, glitter, sequins and smashing leather too. Heavy leather and fur were in the mix with sheer tulle and lace, hardly ever covering up the models well enough for the winter season. But then again these looks aren’t meant for everyday wear. They were created to make heads turn and yaws drop. Like the finale of evening wear, containing both shiny tuxedos and sequined party dresses.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Apart from an all red look and a selection of full on purple ensembles Costume National told a true monochrome story today. Fresh faced models (hardly any make-up, hair undone; the kind of streetstyle coolness we know from most French editors) worked the modern, cool f/w2014 collection, which formed the ultimate mix of menswear inspired creations (pinstripes, boxy fits, large collars and suits) and elegant feminine designs (sexy dresses, sheer blouses and lots of (faux?) fur. Like the first crispy white look with a pair of loose fitting pants, brogue shoes and a winter proof fur waistcoat, worn carelessly, hands in the pockets. Followed by a more sexy attire, short dress, bare legs, high heels. A few navy & black designs were less impressive, but other than that, f/w 2014 just felt right. The CN woman is not trying to hard to fit in. She’s not desperate to look sexy or desirable. And she doesn’t dress the way she dresses for anyone else but herself. That’s why the CN woman, or girl if you will, is so damn hot. Yes, especially in that tux-inspired black suit at the end.

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