It was all about camouflage-prints at Dries Van Noten. He carved them into tailored jackets and crisp Bermudas. He used them to line parkas, to trim color-blocked shirts and he splashed them onto cobweb sweaters. Van Noten presented many ways to mix the prints into a modern wardrobe: as a shirt under a navy suit; as a light, silken trench over tapered trousers; as printed pants or shorts under a shantung blazer in a pumpkin shade.
Overall, the athletic chic vibe, heightened by the rugged sport sandals that grounded every look, was masculine and appealing.
Next year is the 30th anniversary of the Louis Vuitton Cup, prelude to the America’s Cup, so it was no surprise Kim Jones took LV to sea in his third season as Men’s Style Director for the house. He added sport to LV’s two totems, travel and luxury.
There were chic options for all the crew aboard: handsome double-breasted navy suits, rugged and colorful foul-weather gear and artfully frayed and decaying denim shorts and jackets.
Nicola Formichetti, creative director of Mugler, choose an aquatic theme for his menswear-collection. He and menswear designer Romain Kremer brought in a new tailoring team and focused at fundamentals — jackets, pants and shirts — “without being too extreme,” as Formichetti said. The suits had a muscular presence. The look was sharp, with structured shoulders, no lapels, and attached, cutout tops revealing shards of skin. The theme worked well for graphic scuba tops and sleek trenchcoats in sea foam green or oil-slick black.