Christopher Bailey sent out a rich, chic and sophisticated collection yesterday, with focus at shiny fabriucs and sartorial finish. The show opened with metallic silk in purple, blue, green, fuchsia, and orange. Bailey worked his metallics into shirts, trenches and onto the collars of cabans and car coats. Another important part of the collection were bubble-shaped, multi-toned bomber jackets. On the models’ feet dark socks and flashy metallic sandals.
The color palette was inspired by one of Bailey’s favorite artists — David Hockney — while the geometric prints found their origins at the Bloomsbury Group. To temper the vivid colored metallics, Baily came up with slim-fitting and sober suits, in deep navy seersucker or cotton. Bailey often layered the shiny with the matte, or put a dark, slim-fitting jacket over a long, loose printed top.
The most anticipated show this menswear-season: the come-back show of designer Jil Sander for her own label. Looking at the collection it seemed Sander said goodbye to the experimental designs of Raf Simons and went back to purism. The collection was crisp, graphic and youthful. Jil Sander opened her show with a sleeveless navy coat over a white, short-sleeved nerd shirt and shorts, setting her main agenda: playing on proportion, and a mix of formal and sporty.
Sander gave her pristine silhouettes a generous mix of classic and vivid colors, from long-line tan suits spliced with white panels, to boxy garage jackets in an Yves Klein blue. There were prints, too: polka dots and Mondrian-esque stripes.