Yohji Yamamoto sent out an “Analog vs. Digital” collection for Y-3, contrasting the traditional with the modern. For women, it translated into a mix of materials, textures and lengths. A key look was a fitted sweater, puffer vest and neon plaid scarf worn with skinny pants and a transparent PVC kilt that was cut in half. Yamamoto’s men’s wear had more of a utility-meets-street vibe with a strong focus on outerwear.
Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 looked tougher than usual. His inspiration came from the nomadic cultures of Central Asia, and the collection was a mixture of ethnic pieces (capes, ponchos and harem pants) and Americana (parkas, hooded vests and long, striped pullovers) shown in brights and a gray-to-black palette.
At the end of the Y-3 show a net dropped from the ceiling and Yohji Yamamoto—accompanied by Zinedine Zidane, one of the world’s most famous soccer players—came out to take a shot at a goal. Does that mean Yamamoto is a football fanatic? Not exactly. What inspired Yamamoto’s World Cup-themed collection was something more poetic: the movement of the net after a goal. Netting was integrated into the collection with lots of airy (and body-exposing) pieces. These worked best when worn under tailored separates, like pants and jackets. The combination of structure and flow, as in a blazer over a long dress, or the draped jersey tunics and stiffer cotton pants, was effective.
With a large wall of ice as a backdrop Y-3 sent out a strong collection where functionality met elegance, like baggy suits in big tartans and draped layers of Chanel tweed jackets. The first flagshipstore will open february the 5th in the Meatpacking District in New York.