This is the second part of our round up regarding the fall 2013 collections, which focuses on Prints, Fabrics and the designers’ favorite coming season: checks.
From left to right: N21, Junya Watanabe, Céline, Jesús Del Pozo, Rag & Bone
A mash up of Scottish tweeds, plaids, checks, Prince of Wales suiting and hounds tooth jacquards. Classic, twisted, cut up, patched or blown up to grandiose proportions. These are definitely all from the now – heritage inspired, college prep, BCBG, archetypal and iconic but reinvigorated – rejuvenating tradition at N21 and Rag & Bone, adding a punk coded sense of rebellion at Junya Watanabe or with artful tailoring at Céline and Jesús Del Pozo. Check marks everywhere!
From left to right: Comme des Garçons, Chanel, Hermès, Fendi, Lanvin
Free floating freedom and fun. Cascading swatches of fabrics, rosettes, bows, thick serpentines and bold biomorphic shapes at Comme des Garçons. Rounded flounced belle Époque bustles are a joyful explosion of extravagance at Chanel. Crafted spontaneity at Hermès, fringed skins at Fendi and butterflies appliquéd at Lanvin. All with techno-barbarian enthousiasm. These are exercises in pure texture.
From left to right: Mary Katrantzou, Rodarte, Tom Ford, Peter Pilotto
Welcome to the catwalk circus. Exalted excess in a cultural cross over ranging from glam, to disco, pop to op and manga to Marvel. Fantastical shadowy landscapes in misty monochromes at Mary Katrantzou and cross-cultural multi ethnic Flash! and Bang! at Tom Ford. The very personal folksy mysticism of Rodarte and the cartoonish verve of Peter Pilotto. We are talking maximalism here!
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam
Cosy is not the usual aspect spotted on a Paris catwalk. But nevertheless we met a snug bedtime spirit in Paris with models flaunting out of hotel rooms in silky, lush pyjamas, lace-edged-negligees and flowery dressing gowns. Roomy, soft robes that showed the generous proportions of menswear. Sensual and intimate voluptuous bathrobes lined in marabou. Fabulous, sheltering cashmere wrap-coats in baby blue, pink, camel and blush in smooth, winter-weight woolens and brushed plaids. And thick silk pyjamas printed with English tweed patterns or tender China florals.
Softness and desire seemed a re-found aspect, in touchable styles that established an intimate dialogue between the masculine and the feminine.
Carven is rounding out with oversize coats in teddy bear textures. Cinematic sceneries at Vuitton, in a film noir esprit, showing various states of dress and undress in a midcentury inspired atmosphere. Stella McCartney goes square, though softened, in snugly, velvet touch robe coats.
We noted a refreshing sense of ease, slightly quirky and off beat and an inspiring invitation to cuddle up.
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam
After working so hard at her Prada collection, the designer Miucca Prada wanted something visual and sporty for her Miu Miu-collection. But also something that was a bit frivolous and romantic at the end. But why she did what she did the designer could not explain. It was just instinct she told the press.
The silhouette she presented was new for-Miu Miu with the long coats and sweaters worn over longer skirts that revealed the ankle. The look seemed rooted in conservative, early 1900s nostalgia. One ensemble — a fitted black jacket with big round buttons and orange astrakhan collar, worn over a polka-dot skirt with an orange ostrich carpet bag and silver Mary Janes — brought to mind Mary Poppins.
There were sporty jackets and belted bodices cut out of quilted navy-blue nylon with pronounced zippers, big pockets and ribbed knit cuffs and hems. The clownish motifs that were used sparingly as styling effects at first, escalated to full looks by the finale of chic cut coats in pink, yellow and baby blue.
That was grunge-de-luxe what Marc Jacobs designed for Louis Vuitton. A bit ironic and provocative, but in a beautiful and sensual way. And melancholic. The set was a circular “hotel” constructed within the vast tent pitched in a Louvre courtyard. The wallpapered corridor housed 50 closed doors which the models opened and exited. The audience became voyeurs, as each “room” featured projections of hotel guests lounging and getting dressed, unaware of the scores of peering eyes.
Jacobs focused on the intimate sartorial gesture: slips, pajamas, robes de chambre. These were paired with some of the season’s best coats and jackets, worn in odd combinations — proportions deliberately awkward, colors sometimes off.
The pieces were gorgeous: a herringbone pattern made entirely of embroidered sequins; voluptuous robes lined in marabou. Some coats came in cashmere with deep borders of dégradé sequins; others, in thick silk printed to resemble English tweeds.
Of course, there were Vuitton bags – but without a logo in sight. Jacobs interpreted the house’s classic shapes in tony materials — croc, python, mink and hand-curled goose feathers — often finished with carved ebony or wooden handles.
Elegant, French, chic; some words to describe Christophe Lemaire’s fall collection for Hermès. Oh did we mention French? Held at the Lycée Henri-IV library the setting breathed unlimited luxury, as did the clothes. Only the best materials (fur, suede, leather and the best cashmere) were used for Lemaire’s effortless, classic looks. A white shirt, camel coat, black leather pants, a selection of loose suits and a black belted dress appeared timeless too. Although modernity was added in mid calf skirts, the way materials were mixed and a certain androgyny. The fresh faced French looking models carried every ensemble with maximum grace as coats and scarves tossed on their shoulders gave them just that careless touch that makes French style so desirable.
After Jeanne Labib-Lamour. Giles Deacon. Esteban Cortazar. Peter Dundas. Vincent Darré. Giambattista Valli, Estrella Archs and Lindsay Lohan, Fausto Puglisi is the latest creative making an effort to revamp Emanuel Ungaro’s label since the designer’s retirement over ten years ago. And the Italian designer did so by incorporating his own signature into the geometric, colorful heritage of Ungaro. “I wanted it to be very Ungaro, but with a graphic approach”, he stated backstage, before he sent out his party dress, short skirt, silk blouses and duo colored pants. He divided his tops and bottoms into parts with contrasting colors and prints. Bright yellow, blue, black, purple as well as polka dots and leopard prints. In line with his own work Puglisi added tons of golden (baroque) embroideries. A polka dot skirt with a black and white, structured turtle neck sweater embodied the perfect mix of sexual and fashion. We’re curious to see where Puglisi can take this.
We doubt the labels founder would ever have come up with the collection we saw today. But it’s Hedi Slimane who’s in charge so we if he feels it’s time for a fresh breeze we’ll just follow his lead. And by fresh we might as well say younger. The Californian Grunge collection seemed to be aiming at a whole new fashion crowd. The kind of girl that would wear short dresses with oversize checked shirts, leather skirts and tops with ultra low V-necks. She’d combine embroidered hot pants with pink colored fur, a belted skirt with an all revealing sheer blouse. We imagine a girl changing her college appropriate look into something more daring, putting on some extra dark eyeliner right before class. A girl that would hit LA’s countless thrift shops to find the perfect dress rather than wandering around on Rodeo Drive. Saint Laurent’s price range might not be right up her alley, but as the customer changes, perhaps so will the label’s prices.
Perhaps the show could have had a few less dress variations in it, but we fully understand Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for leaving them in, since they were all too beautiful. Mostly inspired by the work of Dutch artist like Vermeer the designduo introduced us to their minimal yet ultra elegant selection of mostly dresses. They started off with a A-line black dress, that had long sleeves and a standout lace-like collar and cuffs. Simple, but perfect. Variations to that dress came in blue, embroidered, printed, over the knee and eventually floor sweeping. Laser cut collars, cut outs and transparent parts, coats and a clean blue jumpsuit kept us on the edge of our seat. Not to mention the blue and white gowns decorated by a Delft ceramics pattern. The fact that we’re Dutchies has nothing to do with our opinion about this show. It was just beautiful.
Arriving under the glass dome of the Grand Palais, Chanel-guests found a huge globe of the world, illuminated with countless points of light, 300 of which bore CC markers indicating the brand’s points of fashion distribution around the world.
Lagerfeld’s fashion message was a statement of sartorial strength based on bold, graphic silhouettes in different fabrics, most with major surface interest. A few concepts repeated throughout: “the one-piece suit” — actually a coat with a flange at the hips, which, when closed, gave the appearance of a jacket and skirt, and “the double skirt,” which unzipped from the bottom up revealing a second layer beneath.
Coats and jackets were mostly loose and at times bulky, particularly A-shapes that had both structure and swing over skirts that followed a similar line. Dropped-torso dresses combined fabrics in horizontal blocks of three; long coats were cut away in front. As for those textures, Lagerfeld favored winter-weight fabrics.
While Antony Hegarty (from Antony and the Johnsons) performed three songs and a star studded front row (of Kim & Kanye, Sky Ferreira, Nicole Richie, Ciara, Amanda Seyfried and Jessica Chastain) watched Riccardo Tisci’s latest hit collection being presented. For perhaps his most romantic Givenchy collection so far Tisci pulled inspiration from the brand’s archives. Not from the previous designer but from his own work. “It’s eight years this season that I’ve been at the house. I was like a gypsy—you know, gypsies are always recycling old clothes. It was really one of the most fun collections I’ve done in my career.” With the sweatshirt hype still being in full swing of course Tisci introduced a few pieces. This time around no sharks or rottweilers, but Disney’s Bambi, or half of her, on black sweatshirt worn with contrasting sheer skirts and snakeskin boots. Romantic flowers (of which some seemed to refer to his panthers and lilies collection) were mixed with sheer checks. Oversize sweaters had bright sequins too and waistbelts (or actually luggage binders) that created some sort of feminine silhouette. To make it a real fall collection fur, leather and bomber jackets were added to the mix, all beautifully printed and romantically colored. One of our most fun collections to watch too!