Viktor & Rolf Backstage Haute Coutureshow Paris ss2018

Please take a look backstage at the show of Viktor & Rolf yesterday before their haute couture-show, season spring-summer 2018.

Viktor & Rolf Marriage 2017

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Fashion Show Paris FW2015

In February Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren announced they would stop creating and producing ready to wear collections and fully focus on their Haute Couture shows. There might have been some disappointment, but on the other hand it results in even stronger Haute Couture pieces. Just as they showed yesterday when they presented their Fall 2015 Haute Couture fashion show. Although fashion? Perhaps we should consider it more art, as the collection was named Wearable Art. And what better place to unfold your pieces of art than in the gallery at the Palais de Tokyo, led by the sound of Henrik Schwarz’ melodic soundtrack.

For coming fall/winter, the crossing line between the apparently separate worlds of fashion and art was pretty blurry. Can fashion be art and vice versa? According to the famous Dutch fashion duo, it sure can. A one shoulder dress transformed into an artwork, back into a dress and into an artwork again. We saw hinged frames on coats, dresses, and capes. Soft painted colors are splattered on purely and folded or cinched white canvasses. There seemed to be an interesting conversation between Dutch Golden Age paintings and raw and spontaneous action painting. And we spotted several trompe l’oeil techniques: each artwork is executed in a complex layering of laser-cut jacquards, embroideries and appliqués. As the show was built up beautifully by each look, unfolding slowly the whole art (or fashion)collection, the final look showed the biggest and most complete artwork, as a grand finale—a huge Dutch still life dress on a moving model.

Viktor and Rolf are always up for some entertainment and unexpected show elements, so of course they wouldn’t ‘just’ send their models on the runway. Once again, the designers took the stage themselves too.  They untied their works from several models and hanging them on the white backdrop. All for the sake of that one important question. “We are fashion artists. But what does this mean, we asked ourselves. What do we want to do?” the designers explained to WWD magazine. Art collector Han Nefkens, a longstanding collaborator of Viktor&Rolf, acquired once again a piece that will be donated to the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen. So would that make it art? Perhaps the answer is supposed to never be found. The question seems to be far more interesting than the answer.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture SS 2015

The expressive landscapes of Vincent van Gogh provided the visual cues for giant 3D flowers and enormous straw hats in Dutch fashion house Viktor & Rolf’s Spring Summer 2015 haute-couture collection. Team Peter Stigter went back- and frontstage to capture the moments before and during the fashion show.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Their invitation was a slight clue of their show theme. An old school picture of a model holding a mirror was a subtle indication Viktor & Rolf’s Spring / Summer 2013 collection presentation was going to be about old Hollywood glam and would be filled with mirrors. The backdrop was a large mirror, clothes were given all kinds of reflecting parts (roses and bows made out of mirrored plexi) and a drawn print of a classic hand mirror even appeared on some looks. Not to mention the large amount of metallic pieces, which fit in with the theme perfectly.

In between all the shimmer and shine Viktor and Rolf used a soft shaded color palette ranging from white to nude and salmon to coral. No Hollywood actrices, in the long and lean looks made out of different pleated and draped parts (sophisticated patchwork), the models had more of a dreamy goddess-y feeling. Goddesses in their upgraded wardrobes of course, which were given strong shoulders and playful details such as large bows, the names of the designers as mirrored prints and chunky necklaces.

Many looks still had a very high red carpet feeling, yet we can totally see some of those pants, tops and sportive sweaters being worn ‘on the streets’. Especially with metallics being everyone’s favorite trend to spice up their wardrobes, we can see this collection doing well next spring.

 

 

Viktor & Rolf catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At Viktor & Rolf a full moon set the mood for mysterious show. It was opened by an unlighted moving catwalk on which models posed in their structured looks. Seeing those silhouettes move across the backdrop you knew you were in for another V&R spectacle.

In line with the silky pajama for day wear trend the Dutch designers sent their first few girls on the runway in silk printed and draped ones. Extremely luxury pj’s those were with sparkly collars and fur cuffs. V&R even added some of their larger than life details, like enormous sleeves attached to the models shoulders like a sort of cape.

Everything that followed, the suits, the shorts and sheer tops, coats and evening dress, played with volume and the mixing of materials. The designers showed contrast by combining sheer delicate pieces with touches of raccoon and mink fur.

Shaved, structured fur (in stead of cute and fluffy) that is, which took the Dutch duo months to develop. It made up for the distinctive, statuesque V&R look, the theatrical touch they often add to their collections. Still, this show felt different. Looks seemed to be less about the art and spectacle and just a little bit more about wearability.

A smart move, if you ask us. We’ll probably see the Dutch brand pop up more often and other celebs than today’s front row guest Katy Perry will have a mysterious moment dressed in V&R.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Viktor&Rolf’s Monsieur is a modern gentleman. As ever, he’s a hybrid of classic intellectual and ravishing style icon.  Viktor&Rolf’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection was inspired by this gentleman at home – taking cues from luxurious interior design treatments and translating them to apparel. The enhanced shoulder structure of silhouettes gives subtle reference to Viktor&Rolf’s female Atomic Bomb Collection – in a masculine rendition.

Outerwear and suiting continue to be iconic staples in the Monsieur wardrobe. Suiting evolves for this gentleman with refined silk tuxedo jackets paired with nappa leather trousers – an unexpected edge to classical eveningwear.  Outerwear is rich offering a range set to olives, burgundy, burnt mauve and deep emerald greens. Pieces are composed of unconstructed overcoats in suri and alpaca wool, cotton nylon parkas sleek in fit, cashmere wool military trenches in olive and black framed with shaved beaver and jacket variations with unique shaved and printed shearling treatments. Knitwear is versatile and functional as lighter outerwear – a coral reversible zipper-front sweater in shearling and crepe wool is a highlight.

 

Viktor & Rolf Backstage Catwalk Paris SS12

Dolls inspired the Dutch fashion duo for their spring summer 2012 collection. And for a hair and make-up artist there is no better job than transforming models into modern barbie dolls. And what a beautiful clothes they were wearing! Barbie must have been jealous.

Interview with Dutch fashion model Bette Franke [Dutch]

Het Nederlandse topmodel Bette Franke (Wilma Wakker Model Management) zagen we de afgelopen weken weer regelmatig in de grote shows lopen. Net als wij reisde ze van New York naar Londen, Milaan en Parijs en daar konden we haar uiteindelijk bij de show van Viktor & Rolf strikken voor een kort interviewtje.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Leave it up to Viktor and Rolf to set up an incredible stage act. This Saturday their show in Paris was opened by French duo ‘Brigitte’, who performed throughout the whole collection. But instead of them standing on the catwalk, they were high above it in long, colorful pleated dresses, from under which the models appeared.

It was a sweet sight and the models in their candy colored (peach, pink, coral, blue) outfits made it even more sweet. They looked like real life dolls/Barbies (incl. fake pink eyelashes) in their ultra-feminine pieces.

Summer dresses, long shorts, halter tops, trench coats and evening gowns all appeared with larger than life details on them. Like the enormous stitching details, which were used on every look, the enormous sequins, the enlarged buttons and the wave-shaped appliqués.

Feminine fabrics like duchesse satin, silk gazar and tulle plus the use of colored Swarosvki crystals added up to the glamorous looks of the girls.

For a sweet, fun & flirty summer 2012, or an extravagant performance-look (we’re talking to you Gaga, Rihanna and Katy) Viktor and Rolf are you’re guys!

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