Tonight’s Versace show was all about punk, or ‘vunk’ as Donatella calls it. And though the Italian fashion house already has lots of punk history (Liz Hurley’s safety pin dress from ‘94 was only just recently brought back to life by Lady Gaga), Donatella didn’t feel like looking back for fall. She presented a new kind of vunk that consisted of so many wrongs it was almost right. Models sported body suits, patent leather, cut-outs, high slits, spiked boots, oversize bright colored fur coats, animal prints, sheer fabrics and bright shiny embellishments (incl. larger than life spikes) all brought together in one collection. For a major fashion house like Versace this is probably about as sexy and daring as it gets. Donatella put it all out there tonight as one over the top statement and why wouldn’t she.
For fall Donatella is letting her men shine, big time. Every single look she sent out on the runway today was eye-catching, jaw dropping and head turning to the max. Just how Donatella intended it, as the show notes read: “Big is beautiful. The look is pumped. This is the maximization of luxury.”
Fully checked suits might have been the subtlest looks of the bunch, followed by larger than life zebra and giraffe prints. There was a colorful handmade paint print too, mostly used on the full on denim looks.
While bomber and biker jackets were shorts and fitted, overcoats in fur and camel were oversize. And if you thought all that heavy shiny leather and hairy fur might be a little too extreme for our soft winters; Donatella added a few more airy looks to her collection too. Like sheer embroidered bodysuits with lace details and the baroque Versace swirls worn with black tuxedo jackets.
There was a lot of over the top most women probably wouldn’t dress their men in. But perhaps the designs that end up in stores will be more wearable or Donatella is just aiming at a different type of men for next season.
If you’re the outdoor party type of gal Versace is your way to go as soon as the festival season starts. For upcoming spring Donatella stepped away from her princess-y creations and went for a more careless approach. Models looked less perfect (and more fun) in her crinkled, slightly looser designs, which apparently got a ‘Tailoring with a lingerie edge’ touch.
Though thought was put into every detail models appeared more relaxed, in some kind of off duty mode. Just toss a boyfriend jacket on top of that nude shaded pastel bikini. Never mind if that shirt isn’t properly tucked in. And did one boob just pop out of that tiny slip dress? Oh well… why bother!
Tie dye prints, fringes and cross body shoulder bags completed Versace’s boho festival feeling. But don’t think Donatella let it all just hang loose. No chance she would be sending her runway strutters out without a flawless make-up, seductive long locks and high buckled up boots. Donatella maybe stepped out of her comfort zone, her finale of airy, high slit evening dresses was as glamorous as always.
Well, that was quite a flashback at Versace yesterday! The collection and models Donatella sent out reminded us of those good old Versace days with beautiful stallions, gladiator-boxer types with blonde Adonis hair and muscles. The show kicked off with a parade of shorts and briefs from the house’s new swimwear and underwear collection. O la la!
The Versace man is not afraid of a bit excess, he wears macho medallion jewelry and isn’t shy of flashy fabrics. He is part Rocky, part Elvis and part Mr. T. The collection included shiny double-breasted suits with metallic shirts and ties; floral denim; sweet pastels from Miami; broderie anglaise effects on jackets and shirts, and sleeveless jackets with superhero shoulders. This was masculinity and camp to the max.
The models in the Versace show looked dangerous. Or, like many fashion-editors said: like actress Rooney Mara in her performance as the Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. The clothes were all gothic drama, dark and underground. There was no sparkle of sunny glamour.
The show opened with two black velvet dresses — one covered up, one bare — both embroidered with leather Byzantine crosses. The crosses appeard small and big, in the middle of a corset or at a breastplate. There wer some colorful prints, letters that spelled V E R S A C E. It looked a bit cheap.
More Versace were the chainmail dresses and open metal mesh – it gave the models an air of savage crusaders.
With Donatella Versace being the next designer to collaborate with H&M all eyes are at this glamorous Italian house again. Let’s hope we’ll see some of the sexy, glossy style she presented for spring 2012. For sure we’ll see prints, studs, black leather and color plus short dresses and glamorous partywear. Did the menswear-collection breathed 80′s Versace with it’s bold foulard-prints, for womenswear Donatella kept it less loud.
White leather dresses were held on by snakes of studded leather and had bold zips up the back. They also came in lilac and sky blue in a neoprene fabric that featured a print of sea-horses, starfish and shells. There were also bloomer-shapes shorts with bra-tops and bomber-jackets. Besides the short, curvy dresses flirty chiffon-dresses appeared and a series of dresses in black leather. Of course the show ended with a whole range of full length gowns in rainbow colors.
It looks like it’s time for a true, classic Versace revival. Not only because of the Versace-inspired show of D&G, also because of the ss2012-collection Donatella Versace sent out yesterday AND the news that she is signed on to be Swedish fashion giant H & M annual guest designer. The collection -launched at nov. 17th in 300 shops around the world – will look back at the Versace-heritage with lots of leather, color, prints and vivacity. For the first time there also will be a small home-collection. Donatella was wearing one of the dresses yesterday when she entered the catwalk after the show.
Maybe that explains the ss2012 collection, full with old fashioned versace-prints, play-boys, and suits that closed low to emphasize the torso. Other elements of those heydays were the baroque-print and lots of buckles. The swirling curlicues that were a Gianni signature reappeared in black and white, across jeans and silky blousons, decorating the bath-robes that were once every well-dressed pool’s accessory of choice, and as the tone-on-tone pattern on a sheer mesh shirt. The buckles decorated leather trouser legs, and as closings for jackets. Colors varied from chrome yellow, grass green, cobalt, hot pink and vermilion.
Here’s the official announcement of the Versace for H&M collection:
The Versace-show gave a slightly baroque feeling due to the enlarged motifs at dresses. Lots of white, black and dark-blue, and a little red and green. Donatella Versace kicked things off with military precision — a black admiral’s coat with bold, gold buttons that was as chic as it was streamlined. Then came the LBDs, sharp and angular in silhouette, and more jackets and coats in the season’s soldierly vibe. To both, the designer added a pretty baroque motif of large-scale swirling floral scrolls in bright purples and yellows.
The pleated skirts and jackets, cut from hard, thick leather, worked the pretty side of tough chic while a long white coat sported patchworked fur sleeves. And if Versace showed fewer eveningwear contenders than usual, no matter. The sexy goddess gowns she did send out, with bondage-y busts and gentle feathered trains, were striking.
It was clear Donatella Versace wasn’t into the seventies theme for her spring collection. Unlike at other big shows this week, at Versace there was not an airy, long, loose dress in sight. In stead Donatella opted for body-tight designs and stayed very true to the key aspects of the Versace brand.
The models looked fierce in their tight-fitting pencil skirts and dresses which stood out because of their multiple cutouts in so many places. Shades of blue, red, white and black were used for the looks and were even combined in several graphic prints.
Big pockets and large buttons were placed on a few skirts and jackets. They didn’t look very flattering. Yet towards the end the designs became more gracefull as goddess gowns with tight bodies and loose fringes at the bottom concluded the show.
Many pale, young male models walked in Versace’s rockabilly-inspired fashion show today. Their eye-catching hairdo’s, tight-fitting clothes and small silver necklaces gave them an absolute edgy look. They looked tough, like you wouldn’t want to mess with them.
The fact that they had to wear the most psychedelic (printed and sleeveless) blouses seemed to make them even more aggressive. But we can understand that. Donatella came up with the strangest graphic prints for those blouses. She introduced those as a tribute to the iconic images Bruce Weber made in the 80’s.
Like today at Calvin Klein all blouses were fully buttoned. So that might just become one of the new trends for next year. Apart from the blouses, Donatella designed many tight suits with rolled up legs and leather jackets with fringes.
Towards the end some printed beachwear was shown. Not in color, but in black & white, like the biggest part of the collection. But the absence of color didn’t bother us, Donatella’s prints were already spectacular enough!